Smelling and wearing K de Krizia, one wonders if Maurice Roucel looked for inspiration in Dioressence and Miss Dior. While all 3 perfumes are a beauty on their own, K has that beautifull herbal-ness of Dioressence that makes it stand out, even among vintage Christian Dior fragrances. K came out in 1980 (or 1981, depending on the source) as the debut fragrance of Mariuccia Mandelli, and has always been considered an aldehydic floral. But K is so complex, so intriguing, so much more that this title doesn’t do it justice. K is floral, leathery, animalic, powdery, chypre, aldehydic, herbal...it’s an elixir on its own! The aldehydes are there in the opening, hushed and mellow unlike other aldehydic fragrances. Neroli provides an even fresher sensation with its mellow sweetness, before the floral heart takes over. And here is where the magic happens! Hyacinth is the star; a rich, oily, leathery hyacinth that for a moment, briefly reminds me of the original Trussardi for women. Delicate and whimsical in appearance, hyacinth looks far more innocent than it really is. The rough edges are put upfront, surrounded by narcissus (another killer flower with animalic nuances) and carnation, which adds a spicy and piquant touch. After all, these flowers are anything but demure and innocent. Among them, orris engulfs the flower orgy in one of the most beautiful powder clouds I have ever encountered; you haven’t smelled powdery until you’ve smelt K. Floral powder, leather, oiliness...here is where I’m reminded of Miss Dior (the real one) and see (smell) the imprint it has left and the impact it has made in perfumery. But the base notes aren’t far behind. Oakmoss, animalic musk (nitromusks more likely), civet, sandalwood...it all somehow combines and brings to mind the herbal beauty of Dioressence. The notes are different, the arrangement is more modern, but yet, the classics inspire the new, and the ghost of it lingers on skin like a nymph. Somewhere, deep in the heart of an emerald green forest, a witches brew surrounds me. A beautiful full force chypre. K has average sillage, and lasts around 16 hours on my skin, hovering above and sending fragrant tendrils to my nose with temperature variations. Krizia chose a classically composed fragrance for her debut, and while probably a big seller in its day, it seems overlooked and underrated. It’s a vintage treasure that hardly gets mentioned, and it’s a shame because it’s a beauty on its own, quite cheap on eBay, and seems to keep very well. I have a large 100ml edp from 1981, and even though it brings to mind many fragrances, it can hold its own. It might start innocent and ethereal, but it has a big and bold heart, that was made more evident in the following Teatro Alla Scala. If you enjoy green/floral animalic chypres, leathery and powdery herbal green perfumes, or simply love old fashioned quality perfumery, seek it out. Krizia was a helluva designer, and her perfumes were even better. Italian at its best!