Admirabilis, from La Manufacture was released in 2017. The perfumer behind this creation is Nathalie Koobus. It has the top notes of Bergamot, Elemi, Green Notes, Lemon, Mandarin Orange, and Violet Leaf, middle notes of Cedarwood, Cloves, and Cypriol Oil or Nagarmotha, and base notes of Amber, Benzoin, Incense, Labdanum, Musk, Myrrh, Patchouli, Tolu Balsam, and Vetiver.
Resinous high church incense, a little bit boozy, as though the priest has been hitting the bottle immediately before communion. There's something hay-like mixed in, along with mandarin and lemon and an astringent ivy note, reminiscent of the one in Beach Hut Man. As it settles, a strong cedar emerges, and as does frankincense, along with a fairly light vetiver-patchouli combo. It's a monastery in the Mediterranean somewhere, inland, at twilight on a very still day. As it dries down, it loses some of its distinctiveness, and there's that common ambery drydown shared by so many other incense-heavy perfumes.
This is the first perfume from La Manufacture I've sampled. Looking at the rest of their line, they appear to specialise in riffs on well-known perfumes. If so, I've no idea what this one is a variation of. Nor what the concentration might be: what I can say is my skin has an oily glaze after spraying this, which suggests the concentration of perfume oils must be quite high. It's also pretty powerful: a couple of sprays of this is plenty.
What it is though, is pretty good. There's enough sweetness and shapness not to make this solely a head shop bomb, or be overly reminiscent of a priest swinging a thurible with enough burning incense to set off the fire alarms. There's nothing here that's revolutionary, but it's very well executed with decent-quality ingredients, with enough callbacks and surprises to avoid linearity. Worth hunting out, especially when bottles often turn up heavily discounted on online stores.