Got a vintage 10ml. Love it! It's old-school aldehydic floral complexity with an emphasis on minty, green patchouli (clean). Perhaps I'm romanticising it to myself but I can really see how this and other such perfumes shaped the course of things to come. Here we also have quite strong violet, and there's something about the whole composition that reminds me of Lipstick Rose. Update: Chypre Palatin! That's what this resembles too, gorgeous mossy sweetness.
This is one of the best perfumes EVER! Certainly one of the most tight chypre's I've ever tried. It's epic, but not in a huge look at me way. It's not a loud flamboyant chypre, it's just a very well constructed piece. It's no slouch though, you won't forget you're wearing it. Guy Robert is a master. It was so long ago that I tried Rochas Femme (a dear perfume collector friend it) that I genuinely can't remember what it was like, nor was I a massive fan of the genre back then anyway. However this Dior makes me want to seek out Rochas Femme. To reduce fragrances down to Male and Female tropes is something I avoid but for me the oakmoss coupled with unsweetened, musky, powder in this fragrance makes it spectacularly masculine and wearable. I would urge any man who likes his classic, 70's and 80's men's stuff to try this perfume, because you'd be pleasantly suprised. I have a mini from the early 80's and it's fantastic! Mildly animalic, musky, opening gives way to a suggestion of peachy aldehyde powder, full on oakmossiness, lighly spiced carnation talc, rosehips, balanced woods and a ton of little added nuances as it dries down. It's spectacular but not dressy, it's practical, wearable on a regular basis, and feels...well...real. I need a old bottle of this.
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Dioressence is a beautifully smooth, sophisticated and clean take on a classical Chypre with outstanding quality and an overall incredible scent profile. It starts off very green with earthy patchouli and an array of green leaves and flowers, alongside a hefty dose of soapy aldehydes to brighten it up. From here the dense, rich florals begin to shine alongside a gentle spicy touch of cinnamon. The star of the show here is obviously the oakmoss, alongside patchouli and aldehydes. I find this shades a lot of similarities with the original Miss Dior but this seems to be much brighter and cleaner in a way. I would urge any lover of chypres to seek out this scent, particularly an older bottle where the oakmoss shines proudly. I adore my EDT and can only imagine what the parfum must smell like, a true masterpiece of a scent.