Diorling, from Dior was released in 1963. The perfumer behind this creation is Paul Vacher. It has the top notes of Bergamot and Hyacinth, middle notes of Iris, Jasmine, Lily-of-the-Valley, and Rose, and base notes of Leather, Musk, Oakmoss, Patchouli, and Vetiver.
Darling Diorling! What a gorgeous leather you are! And I’m reviewing an early 60’s Eau de Cologne so I’m not getting the full strength! Diorling opens in husky shades of lilac clouds. There’s freshness from bergamot but what stands out immediately on my skin is violet, though not listed in this minuscule note list, but it’s there. I sometimes wonder if it’s just a side effect of the leather, kinda like a precursor to Fahrenheit. There’s ozonic freshness and green buds bursting, with their slight cucumber dew. I’m not a fan of violet or violet leaf, but the contrast here is gorgeous. Lilacs as well I can sense. The leather doesn’t take long to come front and center. This is old school isobutyl quinoline just like in Jolie Madame, but it’s rawer here. Wilder. So much for its British associations! The heart unfolds slowly and tenderly a white flower blanket. Soft flowers as if seen through a hazy mist, tender jasmine, soft roses, a canvas of blue and purple blossoms hindered even smoother by the patina of leather. Leather that keeps turning darker and more animalic, reaching a point where it smells just like Mona di Orio Cuir; Edmond’s disciple, Mona did get influenced by the master, and her wonderful Cuir pays a wonderful homage to her teacher/mentor/friend, whose influence by Paul Vacher can be smelled in his later creations. From Paul to Edmond to Mona! Slowly but steadily, a blanket of oakmoss and musk, castoreum certainly there, starts to engulf the leather, taming it. And underneath, a soft floral powderiness softens all remaining edges. Skin that smells of floral talcum, leather and moss, pierced by the hushed breath of animalic notes. As an Eau de Cologne, Diorling opens loud but starts getting quieter as the hours go by. There’s not massive sillage but with a generous application Diorling shines brightly for at least 2/3 hours before becoming gradually a skin scent that lasts for the entire day. Longevity is amazing but it of course lacks the volume of an extrait. A pristine bottle like the one I own feels and behaves almost better than modern edt’s. Better actually, not almost. As the scent starts disappearing from skin, what’s left are the last remnants of leather caressing my senses. A gentle powdery feel makes it smell elegant to its final breath, just like a made to measure Christian Dior outfit. Stunning! I’d love to get my hands on a vintage extrait, but even in EdC I’m amazed by this beauty and its stunning glow!