Mouchoir de Monsieur, from Guerlain was released in 1904. The perfumer behind this creation is Jacques Guerlain. It has the top notes of Bergamot, Lavender, and Lemon Verbena, middle notes of Cinnamon, Jasmine, Neroli, Patchouli, Rose, and Tonka Bean, and base notes of Amber, Iris, Oakmoss, and Vanilla.
“There are only two good Fougère’s, Jicky and Mouchoir de Monsieur - all the rest are for truck drivers” - Jean-Paul Guerlain. A bold statement from the man himself, and a clearly biased one, but that doesn’t take away from the fact that Mouchoir de Monsieur is one of the greatest Fougère’s ever made. Released 15 years after the revolutionary Jicky, perhaps to give society enough time to adjust to such an outrageous scent, this beauty was born. This retains a lot of similarities to Jicky, with many describing it as the masculine counterpart. Lavender is front and centre, alongside copious amounts of citrus, bergamot and lemon in overdose. It also utilises the same base of coumarin and vanillin to provide some sweet creaminess, but lacks the sandalwood and rosewood which Jicky has. Overall, it really does smell like a more masculine version of Jicky. It’s intensely aromatic and herbal with sharp citrus to compliment, but with the softness in the base toned down - you’re left with something much more bold and daring. It smells far more dry and almost dusty, as though the scent of an old eau de cologne lingers on a vintage suit gathering dust. Absolutely impeccable perfumery.