Derviche, from Rogue Perfumery was released in 2018. The perfumer behind this creation is Manuel Cross. The notes are Bergamot, Civet, Jasmine, Labdanum, Leather, Musk, Olibanum (Frankincense), Saffron, Sandalwood, Tobacco, Vanilla.
So of the three I've tried, Derviche was my favourite. I love the leathery, tobacco and what I perceived as castoreum (but is apparently civet according to this?) with a sweet, boozy, animalic richness. Now perhaps I could be critical and say this is a modified formula of some vintage perfume I'm not aware of but I'm a bit too fond of being unfair to Manuel Cross like that, he's fulfilling a demand for this type of fragrance and his audience love it, so fair enough. Again this is quite heavenly in the opening an less exciting/acomplished in the base which is quite backwards for my personal experience of artisan fragrances. There's a smoothness and complexity to them at first, which gives a good first impression and then unravels a bit later on. I like this, but I still have an issue with marketing as anti IFRA, it's difficult for me to get around that. I shall give it a proper wear and report back here with an update soon enough.
So of the three I've tried, Derviche was my favourite. I love the leathery, tobacco and what I perceived as castoreum (but is apparently civet according to this?) with a sweet, boozy, animalic richness. Now perhaps I could be critical and say this is a modified formula of some vintage perfume I'm not aware of but I'm a bit too fond of being unfair to Manuel Cross like that, he's fulfilling a demand for this type of fragrance and his audience love it, so fair enough. Again this is quite heavenly in the opening an less exciting/acomplished in the base which is quite backwards for my personal experience of artisan fragrances. There's a smoothness and complexity to them at first, which gives a good first impression and then unravels a bit later on. I like this, but I still have an issue with marketing as anti IFRA, it's difficult for me to get around that. I shall give it a proper wear and report back here with an update soon enough.