This Ember, from Anka Kuş Parfüm was released in 2021. The perfumer behind this creation is Ali Erkekli. It has the top notes of Musk, middle notes of Amber, Ambergris, Musk, Rose, and Vanilla, and base notes of Agarwood (Oud), Birch Tar, Cedarwood, Cinnamon, Labdanum, Myrrh, Olibanum (Frankincense), Tobacco, and Tonka Bean.
As intrigued as I was by the idea of a fragrance inspired by the lore of the phoenix, this is less a solitary mythical firebird and more a gaggle of mean girls cackling at a sick burn. It’s the sort of ambery raspberry-smoky rose that I’m already disinclined to like, because I don’t love fruity florals, but there is something about this one that’s particularly smug and acridly unlikeable. It’s got the structure of a scent that aspires to an aura of power and allure, but it falls flat, it’s just a loud, saccharine veneer in the shape of a void where a personality is meant to be. And sure, you can tell me I need therapy for my high school trauma, but I swear I don’t even think about that stuff until a particularly awful perfume comes across my radar. This is one of those perfumes.