Cuir D'Iris, from Atelier Materi was released in 2019. The perfumer behind this creation is Marie Hugentobler. It has the top notes of Allspice, Mandarin Orange, and Petitgrain, middle notes of Iris, Pink Pepper, and Suede, and base notes of Leather, Musk, Peru Balsam, and Sandalwood.
Gorgeous, musky, iris and gentle leather perfume. To some uneventful, and unspectacular but I think in the context of the brand, it's really fitting. Many brands are making these quality, fleshy iris perfumes and that should make them more hackneyed and even less appealing to a gnarled old cynic like me right? well no actually. The devil is in the details here and there's some nice details. Oh this perfume is now called Iris Ebene (they've made a couple of name changes in this line) it has a fresh note in the top which I swore i did discern as mandarin but when smelling again, I can't really detect but there's a general, fleeting sweet freshness which works well with the developing sweet, vegetal notes. The iris is powdery but musky and woody, not too anything for any palate, great balance is displayed in three perfumes from this line santal one, musk one and this one. I love it. But it's quite standard stuff and although I'd happily wear this I think in comparison to Crivelli's Iris that has much more strange points of interest, re:galbanum and chocolate, and if I wasn't so enamored I might consider picking this up. I liked it. I like the brand generally, I'm in love but I'm sold on the concept of them.