Whilst Fougere Royale was the first fragrance to incorporate a synthetic material - coumarin - it was Jicky which took this idea and transformed perfumery as we know it. At the time of its release in 1889, most of polite society would have worn some sort of basic eau de cologne, and so the introduction of Jicky was truly outrageous and initially was too revolutionary for many. Jicky has a pronounced Cologne style, made up of hefty amounts of bergamot, lavender, basil and bay, underscored by a dominant note of rosemary. The lack of a central heart note creates a strange paradoxical effect, as though the entire composition is made up of radiant citrus and aromatic herbal notes. But after some time, you begin to detect the softness of the sandalwood, complimented by the sweet creamy nature of the coumarin and vanillin - delicately bolstered up by hints of civet. This is the first time a perfume would become sexual, abstract, and no longer would make the wearer smell like lemons or a bouquet of flowers. I absolutely love it. My bottle is only a few years old so I can only imagine how enchanting the original formulation must have been, but smelling this truly feels like experiencing a piece of history. The first ever fougere for women, but easily unisex by today’s standards. A staple lavender in my collection.