Boucheron, from Boucheron was released in 1988. The perfumer behind this creation is Francis Deleamont and Jean-Pierre Bethouart. It has the top notes of Apricot, Asafoetida, Basil, Bergamot, Bitter Orange, Currant Leaf and Bud, Lemon, Marigold, Orange, and Tangerine, middle notes of Cedarwood, Geranium, Jasmine, Lily-of-the-Valley, Lydia Broom, Narcissus, Orange Blossom, Orris Root, Tuberose, and Ylang-Ylang, and base notes of Amber, Benzoin, Civet, Musk, Oakmoss, Sandalwood, Tonka Bean, and Vanilla.
Boucheron comes from the school of rich florientals, with a chypre backbone, all laced with animalic notes. It somehow follows Ysatis, released 4 years earlier, and as if anticipating the end of the 80’s powerhouses it tries to cram everything in a bottle. But it succeeds at not making a caricature and instead it delivers a beautiful fragrance that somehow is also a swan song to shoulder pads, big hair and bright frosted pink lipstick. My 1988 edt starts with a big spicy orange blossom that also turns honeyed and marries perfectly with the tuberose and ylang ylang to make a white flower cornucopia. It does not shy and turns the volume all the way up to let the flowers sing. A little carnation to spice up, some narcissus to prepare for the animalics ahead, resinous amber to sweeten everything; this is a sweet nectar through and through. But as the fragrance unfolds, the sweetness subsides to let the oriental notes show. There’s a nice hint of dark vanilla, sandalwood and resinous benzoin, and suddenly it feels more oriental than floral. But, the oakmoss backbone keeps everything ‘dry’ and more sophisticated. The civet shines in the vintage edt and adds dimension and sensuality to what otherwise could be a screechy floral. Sometimes Boucheron is too much, you can’t just put it on and go. It demands a certain attitude, a certain glamour. It feels too sophisticated to be casual. But it can also glamorize a simpler outfit, as long as the wearer has the personality to pull it off. I recently tested the version out there today, and my surprise was that it hasn’t been destroyed. Yes, the base, or better, lack of, is simple and turns to plain ambery musk without any of the interesting parts, but the fragrance remains bold and beautiful. Along the years it has had retouches but it somehow retains a big part of its character. Nowadays the edp is far more interesting, but if you happen upon a vintage edt, grab it; it puts many others to shame. And if you miss the old Ysatis, give Boucheron a try. Age has been kinder with it.