Ivoire de Balmain, from Pierre Balmain was released in 1979. The perfumer behind this creation is Francis Camail and Michel Hy. It has the top notes of Aldehydes, Artemisia, Asafoetida, Bergamot, Chamomile, English Marigold, Galbanum, Lemon, Mandarin Orange, and Violet, middle notes of Carnation, Cinnamon, Iris, Jasmine, Lily-of-the-Valley, Narcissus, Neroli, Nutmeg, Orris Root, Pepper, Raspberry, Rose, and Ylang-Ylang, and base notes of Amber, Incense, Labdanum, Musk, Oakmoss, Patchouli, Sandalwood, Tonka Bean, Vanilla, and Vetiver.
Many perfumes, especially 70’s and 80’s greens, are considered a witches brew. Not many really are. For me, one is Aromatics. The other is Ivoire. Review based on a 200ml edt splash from either 1980 or 1981. Ivoire is hard to describe or decipher for that matter. It’s a bitter green perfume, where all the other notes simply exist to balance. Every time I’ve worn it, my feelings range from surprise to awe. I find it sometimes a bit rough around the edges, but like a drug it keeps pulling me in. The first few wears were a little bit difficult and I could actually see why many would consider it old fashioned. But one thing happened; I couldn’t keep my nose away from my wrists! It’s as if I was smelling a bitter soap, a green ointment rubbed on nails to avoid bitting them. But nothing was off, nothing felt out of place, and my bottle is as fresh as the day it was made (it came boxed and unused so that helped). The closest fragrance to Ivoire, for me, is Missoni’s original first release, and I’m starting to think the raspberry in both is making the connection in my mind. Ivoire on me is a wonderfully green and bitter soapy floral. I can’t really separate the notes, and even though it changes and evolves, all I’m left is with a living forest emanating from my skin. I find it far more green than N°19 and Silences, far more bitter (something I love) than Armani or Aromatics, less sweet and floral than all the above and also less animalic. For me it’s a study in galbanum, moss, woods, all covered in a bar of ivory soap that has mosses covering it. The late drydown reveals the alchemy with Missoni and then it’s when they share that same mystique of smoothness, that dry feel in your mouth after a cup of tea, and skin that is slightly sweaty, musky, warm. Sexuality vs sensuality emanating from your pores. I find Ivoire different from similar offerings, highly complex with evolution that defies one’s abilities to decipher it. It breathes and changes but it doesn’t allow you to come to close to reveal its layers. Much like the fleeting beauy dressed in ivory that, at the opera, caught the attention of its creator. It’s a stunning fragrance, it brings to life emotions, and while every wear shows small aspects of its beauty, it decides what and when to reveal itself. I absolutely love it, I can’t stop inhaling it, and the fact that it boasts an impressive sillage and longevity makes it ideal for a date with yourself. I don’t consider it similar to the ones that it reminds people of, so it’s very much worth owning it. Although it might be a little hard if you don’t REALLY enjoy green in all its power. A masterpiece!