Aromatics Elixir is marketed by Clinique as an “intriguing non-conformist fragrance." Chandler Burr writes of its depth and shadows, and it's described by many reviewers as "a chypre on steroids." I find all of these things to be true, and more. It is a bitter, balsamic, menacingly astringent blend of cool, otherworldly woods and sour alien herbs, abstract florals and austere resins. Verbena and geranium, jasmine and oakmoss, bergamot and patchouli–all of the familiar notes for a classic and yet it feels out of time, wholly strange and new, as if it contains a strain of alien DNA. Like it’s been floating through the void of space in a cavernous non-Euclidean construct, the monstrous pressure and eerie whistle of the air ducts it's been hiding in slowly driving it mad as it drifts a silent path through the cold stars, utterly alone. If this being had a message for us from across that cosmic ocean of emptiness, it would surely reach us after its death. Such a transmission from that dread abyss is the scent of Aromatics Elixir.
@beelike: the perfume spray is an edp. Lauder brands used to use this appellation for edp. Aromatics also exists as an edt, in a clear glass bottle, not frosted like the regular, which is IMO less stellar than the classic perfume spray. A glorious power chypre! Enjoy it cause they don't make em like this anymore!
I’ll start by saying that the bottle I own was purchased in 2009. Not vintage by any means as I haven’t been able to find one (yet), but still powerful with both treemoss and oakmoss listed, and a deep amber brown color. I believe it is still very much Aromatics Elixir. And it is one heck of an elixir. Seductive, powerful, serene. Confident, just like the person who wears it. Statement making, not only because it is strong and room filling but because it represents perfectly a concept, an era, the perfume itself. Wearing Aromatics today, just like other vintage fragrances with highly marked personalities feels like time traveling; it is so specific, that the image just flows right in your mind. It is so personal, that it becomes part of you. While to many it’s dated and old, I can’t help but get weak in the knees when I smell it on someone. And thankfully I still do! Aromatics on me is mostly about the green. Herbs, patchouli, oakmoss, vetiver...and less about the flowers, which bloom magnificently on certain chemistries. On my skin, the initial bracing bitterness dissipates just too soon to reveal a forest tapestry, where the floral notes simply enhance the overall feel. In all these years I haven’t been able to find the tuberose that’s in the formula. Sometimes I can sense the rose or the jasmine, but they leave so soon that only a flicker of their presence is left, enough to magnify even more so the beauty of the other notes. And the chamomile is simply stunning; not often used, here it acts as the link that ties the layers of the fragrance together. There is an overall honeyed smell, much like in Knowing or Paloma Picasso, but where these fragrances rely heavily on the rich florals, the sweetness here doesn’t feel floral in particular. It enhances even more the green/leathery/animalic facets; it relies on the beauty of its basenotes to showcase its true nature. And Aromatics is so powerful that the honey-ness simply serves to counteract its force. It might be a tough one, but it is also elegant, smart, beautiful and joyous. A sweet woody chypre. Powerful and perfumey enough to ensure a grandiose chypre structure that feels as exhilarating as Angostura on an upset stomach, Aromatics does the same for the soul. Originally conceived as a treatment fragrance, it advertised the properties of jasmine, oakmoss, chamomile and civet. But it’s so much more than that. Hippy chic in the 70’s for those who could afford it. Powerful enough to cut through the smoke in 80’s ‘Club Opium’ or ‘Poison Discotheque’. I don’t recall it in the 90’s, was it out of style? Couldn’t be, Aromatics defies the laws of style and vogue. It simply is. While it’s still very popular, many are intimidated by it, including shop assistants. And rightfully so; you have to go near it with determination, spray and let it engulf you. Only then can you truly appreciate its beauty, whether you enjoy it or not. Aromatics has, and also demands, a big personality. Someone that doesn’t follow trends, who works hard but knows how to unwind. Aromatics feels like a wonderful signature fragrance and one that no doubt leaves an imprint. I’m lucky that I can smell it so often and more often than not, it suits its wearer beautifully. Magnificent!
Like I said in my previous review (I’m actually reviewing a perfume twice???), I adore -and use sparingly- my 2009 bottle. I have it, along with my 1987 Genny, on a pedestal. But after dissing the associations, and considering the latest reformulation as a flanker, I went ahead and purchased a new bottle. Mostly because Clinique has still not given up completely on Aromatics. And while it’s different, it’s still my good ol’ friend. Oakmoss, civet, chamomile...these notes have diminished, falling out of style unfortunately. But some others, like vetiver, incense, dark roses, geranium, have come forth. More or less making it Aromatics Elixir Dry. Comparing both bottles side by side, I notice the change, and I cringe. But wearing the newer one and judging it by its own merits, this is Aromatics. Just a different facet of it; drier, woodier, less mossy, less herbal. It’s not a witches brew anymore, but it inhabits the same forest. I feel like I’m meeting an old friend I haven’t seen in ages. The face looks different; older, more mature, with lines of sadness and happiness. Of life. The hair is different; new haircut, different color. The edp has changed to edt along the way. But after catching up, it’s the same person I used to know. I’m just getting to know a different side. For now, Aromatics has not been butchered nor gone the route of Opium, Poison, N°5, N°19, Miss Dior, Magie Noire and so many more. I have a special weakness for it, far greater than I thought, and maybe I’m imparcial, but it’s still on its pedestal, despite diminished sillage, longevity and projection. I just spray far more, and catch it during the day, bringing a smile to my face. As a comparison, it’s in the same ballpark as Opium was circa 1995/98 under Sanofi, or Miss Dior circa late 90’s; different but still very much itself. For now, my old friend is alive and kicking.
99093; this is the formula number for current Aromatics Elixir perfume spray. It’s also the formula number for the limited edition Morher’s Day bottle that came out earlier this year. So it’s been reformulated again early 2023. Up until a few months before, the reformulation to remove Lilial had formula number 49170. So why they reformulated again in the span of less than 2 years beats me. But I’m glad they did because they restored some of the lost beauty! This current formulation brings it closer to the 80’s formula and remarkably close to Genny, the original Diana de Silva production. Almost a dupe, far far closer than previous AE editions. There’s a perceivable chamomile smell that was kinda missing, aldehydes, neroli and more civet than before. The oakmoss is still there but now it’s more potent; the inky saltiness is back and it smells more like proper oakmoss. I also smell less patch and the floral notes are more blended. It’s more herbal, greener compared to the more woody and dry previous iteration. I also notice more sillage and I don’t become nose blind to it. We know that the big face lift came around 2014, when it became distinctly slimmer but still maintaining its character. Now, it’s got part of its personality back, so they must have listened (I wish!!) to consumers. Either way, it’s a very beautiful adaptation, it lingers for hours, and bringing it closer to its 80’s version shows how multifaceted Aromatics can be without losing its traits. Now it’s a good time to stock up if it’s a fragrance you enjoy; who knows how next reformulations will be like.
