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L'Occitan Eau de Toilette

L'Occitane en Provence

houdini

Okay well this one is a strange combination of pungent Lavender, deeply spiced with pepper and nutmeg. A great fragrance and although this should be right up my street I just fail to see how I could pull off wearing it. The lavender is as accurate a lavender smell as you can get, totally natural and extremely fresh like pure lavender oil. Comparisons to Luna Rossa from Prada are obvious due to the dominance of this note along with the spicing. In my opinion though this is more traditional, medicinal and reminiscent of aromatherapy oils than the more contemporary Prada. It's not just that though, the whole look of the bottle and branding give the impression of a old apothecary style product. As it dries down it mellows slightly but you do get a strength from this juice that is unrelenting then disappears. I get this fragrance I really do, unfortunately as I mentioned I just couldn't wear it myself. Very good though.

13 years ago

I'm not going to criticize Tom Ford (or Fraud) for this this creation due to it's name. I'm no Arab but I don't think it's takes one to tell that the note breakdown at least is not evocative enough of Arabian purfume...one would think. Yes we all think of Oud and Incense but are they really such authentic Arabic ingredients? What's wrong or not authentic about Oakmoss, Rose, sandalwood? I really don't know? Like I said I'm no expert so I will give Tom Ford the benefit of the doubt on this one. Anybody else who's not an expert should too! The more pertinent problem I have with Arabian Wood is that I simply don't like it all that much. I get Cedar, oakmoss a hint of rose and just lots of masculine woods. This fragrance is nothing special at all and to me is very ordinary male oriented and a real let down for the private blend.

Reading my review below...What an idiotic boob I was some 5 years ago. I've dug out an old sample of this and I'm wearing it today, maybe (definitely) my tastes have changed over that time. I still kinda see what I meant but I'm probably more nostalgic about Arabian wood because it's discontinued in a forbidden fruit kinda way? That is a bit of a stupid reason because I think it's due to the sheer quality of this fragrance. As for my criticism of exactly how Arabic is AW, Well what could be more middle eastern than roses, jasmine, precious woods and resin? That's what this is, a primarily floral perfume with a healthy dose of oakmoss and woods to keep it honest. I think it's clean & beautiful but at the same time has that velvety smooth and sexy, Turkish delight darkness of TF Noir de Noir. Sometimes you have to stand back to appreciate great art and that's what I've done here. It's strong and projecting like mad. Rose and floral perfumes, however nice initially, usually start to get on my nerves after a while and this hasn't. AW is decent and makes me feel a bit special wearing it too, because of the perfect mixture of care free flamboyance and masculinity. I think what I expected in my original review was more sandalwood or oud because of the name but this has a much more refined and subtle edge than many arabic perfumes.

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13 years ago

Eau Duelle Eau de Toilette

Diptyque

houdini

I've tried this about 3 times on my skin, over a number of months and I've got a feeling Eau Duelle could grow on me through further investigation. It's very unique I can't think of anything I've smelled that resembles this, almost like a combination of notes that shouldn't work but somehow just do. Resinous spice, tea, juniper, cardamom, ambergris, musk and then vanilla! It sounds like a 'shitmix' as I affectionately called a plastic bottle mixture of whatever booze I could steal from my parents spirit cabinet when I was a kid. Needless to say these concoctions (usually a dark brownish hue) were not a smooth carefully blended cocktail, more of a burning firewater with no discernible genus. Anyway...that's exactly what I'd expect from this especially with the vanilla being so integral in its make up but its not at all confused. Eau Duelle has a lightness of touch which really lets the spices play around without being able to pick out the notes as such. The frankincense and elemi are present and surprisingly work well with the vanilla. Without further testing I'm at a bit of loss. I know I like it or I wouldn't keep returning to it and this could potentially be one of my favourites from this house.

13 years ago

I'm not surprised the notes in this rhyme... Lavender, Lemon and Lime, Pepper, Musk and Pine. It strikes a great balance similar to all the Penhaligon's I've sniffed out. Perfectly natural sharp citrus of Lemon and Lime(you can really smell both) with calming Lavender. The drydown yields a little pepper and gentle musk. My only criticism is that the combination of top notes give this a cleaning product type of vibe and I'm not one who usually says that about overly lemony or lavender fragrances because it's too easy to go there. At the end of the day I like and accurate citrus also love lavender and I like the subtle pinch of pepper, just works. This still has an elegance about it, Penhaligon's just pulls it off and Blenheim Bouquet has a clean feel but it's not the best offering from them although inoffensive and wearable.

13 years ago

At last!!! I finally have '...the Butt Plug of male perfume' as Mark (Robes08) called it on one of his videos. I blind bought it as it's one of those ones that comes up again and again and I figured it sounded like a safe bet. Firstly, the comparisons with Givenchy play intense alone made me want this juice as if it's anything remotely like it then it's in very good territory. As soon as I sprayed Rochas man I realised how soft it was the smell really takes time to settle and I actually get a great deal of fresh citrus in those first few seconds, then it becomes more apparent what this fragrance is all about. A very subtle vanilla, milky coffee and lavender comes through and to me it seems iced and refreshing not warm and decadent. Without referencing Givenchy Play Intense I was immediately reminded of it as this dries down and understandably so. If you then try Givenchy Play Intense side by side with this you realise there's big differences in notes. To me this is less sweet and more coffee like, it also is softer and stays closer to the skin. Anyone who has this and doesn't have Play Intense don't make the mistake of thinking you don't need it. My personal taste dictates that if you like this (which I do) you will love The Givenchy as it's an amped up, more gourmand, sexier, sweeter, stronger, more complex and longer lasting fragrance than this one. That's my view... but Rochas man has it's merits as a close skin scent which I must say, I really enjoy. Talk of the sweetness here is not that accurate, sure its sweet but the coffee (although really subtle) gives it a bitterness and reminds me of Lolita Lempicka Au Masculin as much as it does of Play intense. Anyway...my verdict is that It's worth a go for a blind buy and the kind of scent I will wear pretty regularly. My inital thoughts were it's a winter scent but actually that soft, cooling, calming vibe might be more suited to a summer evening in hindsight. This is a great juice and right up my street.

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13 years ago

He Wood Ocean Wet Wood

DSQUARED²

houdini

From a fragrance collectors point of view I want one of these He Wood bottles so bad just to have in my collection. I love woody fragrances but there's just something really wrong with the opening of these fragrances. To be fair they're all about the base notes and how they dry down but if the opening and first hour or two is awful then it just puts me off. This one is a real offender in this department, an astringently harsh paint thinner, turpentine type of a vibe in the opening. I love violet accords in various guises but this is all wrong! My girlfriend said it reminded her of ..."a damp wood working tool shed." and I thought...I wish it reminded me of that! I'd take that over what I got from it...I surpose you keep turps in your shed so maybe that was it? Anyway...gets woodier and better in the dry down and I get the wetness of wood that it's supposed to have but it's not sexy or weird like an Encre Noire. Don't like it...such a shame.

Okay....So I've revised my opinion on the He Wood range of fragrances especially this one as the others didn't irk me as much as Ocean wet wood. I just generally had a problem with the harsh, unnatural opening which to me went against what I considered to be the aim of the brand, I mean what could be more natural than wood? I don't like the misuse of the word 'synthetic' particularly as it displays a lack of understanding about modern perfumery but when used convey a 'cheapness' I understand the sentiment and to me this used to apply to this fragrance. However, I've changed my mind somewhat and the drydown and base notes of these woody fragrances are what they're all about. Wet wood is the most mellow and aquatic of the lot in actual fact with a milder violet accord from the original. I've taken it off my hate list anyway can't believe I was so offended by it in the first place? I put it down to olfactory fatigue and a badnoseday!

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13 years ago

Volutes Eau de Toilette

Diptyque

houdini

I have to reflect the sentiment of other reviews on this, truth is I'm not sure what the notes listed here are all about...dried fruit etc? Granted some notes are just evoked by others without actually containing those ingredients. I get a tobacco type accord with honey and Iris but this is not one of the better more distinctive Diptyques for me...and if you like these notes there's probably stronger choices out there. Having said that it really ain't bad either and will require more investigation to make a final decision.

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13 years ago

24 Gold

houdini

My oh my oh my!!! I'd read and watched every review I could on this one before I got it as a blind buy. The amount of respected reviewers I'd listened to saying how amazing this fragrance was and how it surpassed expectations at this price point etc... I still had reservations until I got my nose on it. To be honest all those glowing reviews don't even come close to doing it justice this is a phenomenal fragrance and I don't say it lightly... a true MASTERPIECE. It's blown me away...I couldn't wait to unbox it and when I sprayed it on my hand I waited for a few moments before smelling it, all the while my mind racing at this exciting prospect. Before I could get my nose on it I was treated to a sneak peek, a waft emanating from my hand at about waist height...It was instant love at first sniff! The moment it entered my nostrils my first thoughts were disbelief at how expensive and opulent this smells, although the reviews I'd seen had warned me of exactly that, nothing prepared me for it. 24 Gold is such a magnificent blend of notes that you get everything in the opening a very, sweet amber, jasmine, ylang ylang and anise which create a kind of spicy, middle eastern incense vibe with the sandalwood in there too. This must be contributing to the sweetness and it's almost edibile sweet. The opening is so hardhitting... an epic bombardment, it reminds me of something from Amouage. The Oud is very evident to my nose it the first hour or so it has exactly the strange quality that lots of 'Oud based' fragrances lack (It actual smells of oud!)and that's not even what this scent is all about. It has a vanilla through it too which keeps it creamy and rounds off any sharp edges the vanilla gets more and more apparent into the drydown. It's a strange reminder of elements from lots of high quality niche fragrances I love...Clive Christian C, Amouage Interlude man, Armani Prive Royal Oud/Myrrhe Imperiale and MFK Oud...without being like any of them! So fairly complex you would think? Not really. It's because when a scent is this good you can just take it at face value and you don't dissect the notes just sit back and enjoy the experience. As for the image... a sweet scent with strong branding and massive projection and silage in a gold bottle...sounds familiar huh? Don't get me wrong and no offense to 1 million but this is in another galaxy. Finally, I've been aware of this line of frags for sometime and heard people mention the Jack Bauer connection I thought jokingly...even when I saw the digitally displayed letters on the box I never thought it was actually a concept based on the hit TV series. I never really watched 24 to be honest but if Jack Bauer smelled like this no wonder he was so effective at counter terrorism. The terrorists must've been mesmerized by his princely aroma, like a deer in the headlights. I'd have told him whatever he wanted to know, with no torture necessary. This fragrance has everything going for it and is an instant favourite.

13 years ago

Wearing this today and it's really good, fresh but not too fly away and with a definite masculine edge. The citrus opening is all too familiar to the majority of the ADP's I've tried. It's a very natural fruity smell that is sharp and bracing then becomes slightly spiced. I think this is a really well put together fragrance and oozes easy going sophistication without being anything special. After the initial citrus, there's a touch of soapy blossomy neroli but not too much. Then the ginger, benzoin and myrrh become apparent and I for one am happy with the way this fragrance is going. The drydown is amazing frankly...I love how that freshness and citrus beginning can mask all those subtle base notes underneath. I never imagined it would drydown with a deep spicy, leathery, warm skin type aroma that's incredibly masculine. This is the complete opposite of Essenza di Colonia which has a even more pleasant fruity/citrus opening then the base is totally aloof! Intensa is really good juice and the ideal gift for a man who likes to smell good but doesn't want to make a huge statement.

13 years ago

So...Zen at last I found you and I was not at all disappointed. A great fragrance, has a fresh sparkling feel with a fruity musk vibe. Definite nashi pear note in the top, vague florals (which is a good thing) and a soft musky suede drydown. What's great about this scent is it seems familiar but is actually quite unique as it goes and I'd rather wear this than some of the fresh designer scents out there. I have to say I really love the white heat edition version but I suspect this will have better performance in projection terms as it is a bit stronger and less subtle. Shiseido Zen is a casual scent that could be worn everyday and has a clean non intrusive vibe...great contemporary bottle design too! I enjoy it.

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13 years ago

Zen for Men White Heat Edition

Shiseido

houdini

Been looking for somewhere that stocked this and the original Zen for a long long time. I've even tracked down rarer niche fragrances faster than this one but I was determined not to blind buy it even though I kind of knew what to expect. Was I right though? Absolutely! I'd have been happy with this as a blind buy. What a great smell! It opens with angel chorus, flourishing harps and birdsong! Nah... not really but it might as well do. It opens with a freshly squeezed, sweet, juicy tangerine and citrus note(well hassaku anyway) and a slightly floral vibe but very very soft with a minimal sandalwood. It's only the creamy element of the sandalwood and as I mentioned, very subtle indeed. I don't get much mint but I do get an Ice cold, refreshing vibe that for me makes Zen white heat edition a great achievement. If you can find it (I had to go to a Shiseido make up counter) get it! You won't find many better fresh fragrances, really the smell of this is excellent and a welcome alternative to the usual designer fodder. It's very soft, I only tried it on my hand but I could imagine the longevity to be avaerage and the scent will stay close to the skin. So soft in fact it could be considered feminine but not at all to me I'm definitely going to get this one.

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13 years ago

Aqua Universalis Forte

Maison Francis Kurkdjian

houdini

No! Not for me this one. Too feminine and has the dominant white florals which to me are right on a crucial borderline between uplifting and headache inducing. Smells more like a room scent than for human consumption (so to speak) and I can't understand why anyone male or female would enjoy smelling like this? each to there own though huh? As with all the MFK scents it's well blended and the citrus opening works well with the soapy, waxy blossom smell. I love jasmine and it's definitely here sweetening up a neroli type floral fragrance but I never seem to find a TRUE jasmine especially in a male fragrance or even failing that, a unisex. I remember trying Aqua Universalis and quite liking that but I'll have to try it again to be sure. I seem to remember it being more citrus and watery notes than white florals and as such maybe less intrusive and more wearable than this. Update: I think I've been a little unfair above. I understand why someone would want to smell like this it's very nice and actually evolves, constantly changing and making you think. It's certainly more than just a white floral scent I can really smell the musk too. The flowers are so accurate and natural I'd go as far as to say this is the best white floral I've ever smelled but it's still not for me to wear. (although I am today.)

Having worn this fragrance today despite my initial skepticism about it not being manly enough for me...the quality and skilled composition of aqua universalis simply shines though and over 18 hours of pure delight on my skin. This white floral is well worth the price tag, I wouldn't wear it regularly but it's still an excellent fragrance.

13 years ago

Brave stuff! Full to the brim with spices, I thought I was going to love this one unconditionally but sadly I don't. It puts me in mind of a dry, sandy, beige colour landscape because of the association perhaps? I don't know why it kind of reminds me of sandpaper not the smell as such but it just creates a sensory, olfactory texture...if that's not too pretentious a comment? It's a pungent opening for me quite peppery which I usually like but not here as it's a little sneezey. The spices are hard and rough at first and as it dries down it starts to produce a really lovely incense vibe. I kinda love this fragrance but I couldn't wear it myself. Although this is a 100% straight down the middle unisex, I personally get a more of a feminine feel from it... like something a belly dancer would wear. It's certainly not because this is light or breezy it's pretty hardcore to be honest and far spicier and smokier than CDG series 3 Avignon to which I've seen some comparisons. My verdict is that this is a cracking fragrance...just not for me. I would recommend anyone who likes orientals or spicy, incense fragrances to try this one as it's very interesting.

13 years ago

This was recommended to me at the Kilian counter and was one I hadn't tried due to my habit of limiting myself to masculine or unisex perfumes. The reason I do that BTW is not because of any aversion to them, rather that I would be opening a Pandora's box of female focused possibilities and financial decline. The odd one is okay and this was one I made an exception for. I really, really like fruity fragrances and In the city of sin is great to be honest. It's a wonderful fruity/floral, sexy musk scent which to my nose is only slightly spicy, nothing offensive. Easily unisex, not for me though more suitable for my girlfriend... she liked it too.

13 years ago

Intense it isn't. A gorgeous balmy amber which is soft and has a wonderful sweetness coming from the patchouli. The incense and resin is fresh not smokey and the overall effect is soft. This is a gentle fragrance in no way intrusive or bold and for this reason, leans in a mildly feminine direction. That being said I would still wear Evody Amber Intense as I found it a thoroughly enjoyable experience. The first fragrance I've tried from this house and so far I'm impressed.

The below review was a while back and since then I'd always imagined Evody to be a pretty good house, well never presume anything because the rest of their efforts I've sampled since just don't cut the mustard. So I managed to get a proper set of samples and this was one I knew I had raved about and was expecting to be disappointed a second time around...but no...It's still pretty awesome. This opens with such a sweet warming presence that appeals to me but if it stayed that way would become cloying. Luckily it doesn't and quickly progresses passed the top notes revealing a pleasant amber accord and spicy incense with a hint of smoke and sandalwood. Where it lets itself down slightly is on performance, it's not bad but gets close to the skin quick and is too subtle for something labelled 'Intense'. However, I stick to my original thoughts...Evody Ambre Intense is a superb Amber fragrance that makes you let out an audible sigh of satisfaction. I'm still really tempted to add it to my collection, and I've got (let alone tried) loads of ambers so that's Praise indeed.

13 years ago

Well...Finally tried this flanker and I have to say it's very nice, not as impressive to my nose as Pure Malt but nice nonetheless. Sweet, slight cherry vibe to it very warming and again takes some of the edge off the original AMen much in the same way Pure Malt does. For me the Honey is prominent(not usually my favourite) but it's a pleasant honey that I actually enjoy. The tobacco is minimal to my nose and I was hoping for something more in this department. Overall, it's another good but subtle variation on the AMen theme and the price is agreeable too!

Update: wowee!!! I got this today and I must say my initial try did not yield much tobacco however now I've worn it properly I get a really cigar like tobacco like a smooth mild cohiba. There's a little smoke too and cherry really similar to Burberry London actually but creamy with cacao and vanilla. Frankly, I'm astounded by these A*Men flankers and how good they are initially they smell like the original but then the subtleties shine though especially in this one. It just goes to show how good the original is as it has all these different avenues to explore and make various flankers based on. This is really really good juice and I love it as much as pure malt if not more.

13 years ago

Okay so this is one of the classic Serge Lutens fragrances that I had tried but never really got to know until now. What can I say? Ambre Sultan is a very indulgent amber scent and frankly one of the best out there...No surprise really. Contains all the things I love in fragrance... Warm amber, resinous spice, a touch of creaminess from sandalwood and vanilla. It's a rare thing for an amber scent that is so in your face and yet I don't get the burning nostril sensation I get from even some of my favourite amber heavy concoctions. I think this due to a very good good composition which is strong yet smooth a really fine scent indeed.

13 years ago

Sparkling, sweet and beautiful! What a great scent this is... it's like quenching your parched lips with an ice cold, fizzy, San Pellegrino. To me this is a perfect energizing summer fragrance. I was expecting a very gin like, juniper vibe which it does deliver but it also gives a sweetness, clean vetiver and a spiced vibe too. It's expertly blended to create a really intriguing fragrance which is uplifting as many have mentioned in their reviews. This stuff will genuinely cheer you up! The only problem I have and it applies to quite a few Penhaligon's (some of them are stronger) they have poor longevity and projection. This is among a few that are slightly more expensive than the rest of the range and I can't see why really? I like it that much that I may well add it to my collection despite this. Update: I was very tempted to buy this today, instead I was given some samples by a lovely lady in the Penhaligon's shop and will trial it on my skin over the next couple of weeks and see how we go on. It is a summer scent for me so maybe not a priority purchase. Make no mistake though I'm still as in love with it as I was at first sniff...a wonderful fragrance!

13 years ago

Finally got to try this today and lets set the record straight! Is Encre Noire Sport in keeping with the aesthetic of the brand? Of course it isn't! However, forget whether Encre Noire should have had a sport version or trying to make out the launch of this flanker will somehow degrade the excellent reputation of its predecessor because Lalique have done it now! As for the smell of this? Well, I was intrigued to find out its not a million miles from the original in all honesty. The opening is totally different a sharp citrus, grapefruit and bergamot which is lovely, fresh vibe which suits the sport name. The citrus was long lasting too much more than just top notes a very rare thing, it seems to permeate for a long time into the dry down, a dry down which is very familiar. So...that dry down then! The smokey, peppery, ultra woody, dark signature character of the original starts to shine through and you think 'ah ha! There it is!' The longer it matures the more it becomes that wonderful vetiver and cashmere wood of the original. How you couldn't like this and enjoy the original, I fail to understand? Maybe if you don't like citrus at all? But otherwise this is a good fragrance. I love the weird, melancholic almost sombre vibe of Encre Noire but to lighten the mood a touch and maybe add some extra appeal to those who find Encre Noire too dark and woody...Is okay in my book. As sport flankers go no matter how inappropriate, Lalique have fulfilled the brief of a sport scent with this offering which in my eyes is to make something fresher and more versatile in a 'sport'/active situation while retaining critical elements of the original. This reminds me of another recent release, Tom Ford Noir EDT version which is the same principle applied here more citrus in the top but basically the exact same fragrance as the EDP. This fragrance is mega long lasting too, 10 hours on and I can still smell it, I have the original and I know it has great longevity too but I'm impressed by sport. To conclude I'll just say that I think this is really very good. I was apprehensive as I'm sure others were due to the name but Lalique are a quality brand and this fragrance is no different. Nothing cheap about this to my nose expect EN with a citrus twist and you won't be disappointed. UPDATE: INSANE!!!!! The longevity of this fragrance is huge over 24 hours I've showered washed my hands numerous times and I can still faintly smell it on the back of my hand where I tested it yesterday afternoon...that's almost unheard of staying power.

13 years ago

No doubt I was attracted to this juice by the bottle...I know I'm stating the obvious here because it's called roadster but it's seriously weird looking like a turbine or an engine or something. Yeah so I've just sampled it and I have a severe cold so my judgement maybe seriously impaired, however I got a very watery, cucumber type opening with metallic notes and citrus. The bergamot and labdanum are refreshing and to me create an almost melon smell not dissimilar to something like Kenneth Cole Reaction. I was surprised to be honest that cardamom was not listed on here as it seems a little spiced. The earthy woodiness coming from the vetiver with the citrus again giving a kind of classic male effect think L'eau d boisee or terre d'Hermes. This is one of the nicer juices from Cartier and probably because it's boring and in safer territory than declaration for example. I like the fact that they had a brave approach to male designer fragrance even if I deemed them unwearable on a personal level. This is pleasant and wearable but as such just a little ordinary.

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13 years ago

La Collection M7 Oud Absolu

Yves Saint Laurent

houdini

Well I'll be honest...Somebody asked me what I thought about the new formulation M7 compared to the old TF M7. Well I've never owned the original despite it's legendary status and my time as a fragrance enthusiast. I remember smelling it in a shop and thinking it was great but I can't recall the precise nuances in my olfactory memory banks. Also having not tried the new one I couldn't really answer the question or have much of an informed opinion on the subject. Now that I have I can't comment on the comparison all I can say is that this is a superb fragrance full of class. This really puts a lot of highly priced and prized niche fragrances to shame. The opening is lush fruity madarin orange and patchouli the Oud is perfect and it's slightly resinous too. Great stuff, elegant and perfectly unisex, great value for the quality. YSL M7 Oud Absolu has a huge amount going for it and is revered with good reason. I'm adding it to my collection.

13 years ago

Okay it's expensive... £185!!! People will continue to compare it with TF Tuscan Leather because it's got 'Leather' in the name...for me this is an entirely different take on a leather fragrance. I get the sweetness of fruit and creaminess of vanilla and patchouli in this and personally think it's a triumph and nicer than Tuscan Leather in many ways. It's beautiful to my nose...but... Don't think I'll be getting it at that price...although I was tempted.

13 years ago

Not to my taste at all. I got a sample and to be honest I never even looked at the name as I wanted to test myself on the notes...not much of a test I can tell you. First thing that struck me, orange blossom....white blossomy waxy tuberose, sweet jasmine and in a onslaught of white floral. If you love that then you're in luck because it's here in abundance and I think the combination is good because it keeps the sweetness from becoming too much. However, to me it's quite soapy like Neroli/tuberose or other white florals and although the orange blossom is prominent it's too feminine for me and there's nothing else really to discover after the opening. Longevity and projection are insanely good on this I found spraying a small amount on my pulse points and it was unrelenting.

13 years ago

Complex, masculine, spicy but smooth and above all sophisticated. This one keeps me sniffing and the development of notes is wonderful. I can see the comparisons with brut but this has more depth and subtlety. Having said that for all it's complexity it is fairly linear I think that is due to being very well composed and balanced. I actually enjoy the slight honey note in the dry down which is unusual for me. The opening is pretty harsh though ozonic and metallic, aldehydes then lavender. The dry down is spicier and woody, clean too a little like a gentleman's soap. Sartorial settles close to the skin but is long lasting...I enjoyed this one a real classic.

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13 years ago