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Costume National Homme

CoSTUME NATIONAL

houdini

As soon as I opened the sample bottle the aroma hit me and I thought 'boy oh boy this is going to be a sweet one!' Straight away I got a citrus fruit and cherry liquor type note mixed with cinnamon almost like a mish-mash of smells in a sweetshop. That may seem derogatory but I mean it in a massively positive way this fragrance is magic smells like it's going to be very cloying but when it hits my skin it becomes less sweet and totally manageable. The catalyst in this fragrance for me is labdanum making everything bright also the sandalwood base just reigns in the sweetness nicely. This stuff is perfect for someone like me who has a sweet tooth but doesn't want to be bombarded and also has a nose for the unique... because I've not come across anything like this one. I say that however the smell reminds me of something I can't put my finger on...just not a fragrance.

13 years ago

This is a true chocolate a bitter cacao note in the top which fades back into a slightly paler Vanille Absolu which I adore BTW. I can't say I dislike this fragrance far from it, in fact it's yummy, sweet, woody, vanilla just a bit redundant for me, Simply because of the similarity to VA. This is chocolate/vanilla wafers and when you smell really deep it does have a slight fruitiness and something which is undoubtedly Montale about it. Just like choosing an Ice cream flavour sometimes you're in the mood for chocolate sometimes vanilla...sometimes both? So I love this too...absolutely love it but when the ice cream in question costs over £100 a scoop (flacon) you have to make your mind up as you can't have both.

No higher praise than a compliment from my mum! She is often horrified by some of my fragrance choices and is not shy when it comes to being vocal about it. On the rare occasion I get a positive comment, I treasure it. "Have you been eating chocolate?" "Nah...I just smell of chocolate...do you like it?" "Yeah it's nice...you really smell of Chocolate, just like drinking chocolate" That constitutes a compliment to me, and this stuff does project it has classic Montale strength to it, obviously not the strength of the powerful Oud fragrances but very good. I'm seriously stuck between chocolate greedy, vanilla absolu and intense cafe, to be my first Montale purchase.

13 years ago

Sweet but more spacious take on vanilla. Extasy is a wonderful composition, I got a peach(turned out to be apricot) and benzoin adding to what is a more floral vanilla with jasmine adding to that feel. It's very nice and is unisex, even something I'd wear but I can't help a slight association with the more feminine aspect of apricots and peach with a gentler less full on Vanilla. Just from a point of view...I'd like to smell this on a woman rather than dismissing it being worn by a man. Calming, lovely more faultless perfume from Montale...lasts well too and makes itself known...not quite as deep and long lasting as Montale Vanille Absolu but projects more and still has excellent longevity.

13 years ago

This stunned me! Amazing gourmand, so insanely sweet but I for one could never get sick of that smell. It's reigned in perfectly being a little dark, this is what vanilla should be about eg: A naughty, tasty gourmand experience. Nothing weird or spicy or like sniffing vanilla essence or anything of that sort. I can't tell what the contributing factors are in this scent apparently cloves and cinnamon? Well I don't know if I get that maybe a hint which changes the character and makes it smell exactly like vanilla wafers. This fragrance is so delicious, so delightful I want it... right away! I think it's the woodiness of it too... it's dense and incredibly long lasting on my skin but very soft at the same time. This is one to wear in bed with your lover and guaranteed they will adore this level of edibility! THIS SMELLS DIVINE!!! Sweet tooth well and truly satisfied! Update: I've been struggling to decide between This, Chocolate Greedy and Intense Cafe. I had a sample of this left over and after being thoroughly convinced of it's charms myself I had my girlfriend wear it the other day. Wow!!! We went shopping and I was floating around in her sillage trail on cloud nine and so were others in transpired. My girlfriend walked past a young couple with a baby and I stayed as I was looking at something on a shelf near them. The young lady with the baby then exclaimed to her husband..."MMMMMMMMM Can you smell that? ...I just got a really strong smell of vanilla cookies! Can you smell that? where's it coming from....it's amazing!" My girlfriend couldn't hear as she'd walked off but her trail still lingered and was causing a real stir for this woman. As she said it I looked up...and she smiled I think she thought it was me because I'd heard her and had a knowing grin on my face. This is just another occasion where one of these gourmand Montale's has had this exact effect. Brilliant!!!! I'll probably buy this for my girl and I'll have Chocolate greedy.

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13 years ago

Energizer

Boadicea the Victorious

houdini

Really surprised by this one goes on with a mass of lemon, grapefruit and lime...in fact every kind of citrus! It's a face strunching opening and has a massive accord of ginger to me which is reminiscent of Dior Homme sport. I think it's the petitgrain and earthy opening of vetiver giving the ginger type smell but that settles right down after about 10 mins. All bets are off after that and this becomes a beautifully crystal clear fragrance with a huge juicy mandarin note and then its clean green vetiver and long lasting assimilation of citruses. A minor criticism perhaps is that it transitions a little quickly from opening to basically what you get for several hours after saying that some fragrances don't even have a transition so maybe a moot point? I love this so much it's zingy and bright as any citrus slightly peppery spice with the gorgeous cleanness of Tom Ford Grey Vetiver. A citrus worthy of the price tag!

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13 years ago

Invigorating

Boadicea the Victorious

houdini

That blend of citrus fruits with resins and labdanum is SO sharp its quite ridiculous. I can't tell you how much this scent reminds me of absinthe or wormwood it's almost like menthol vapours, reminiscent of some sort of smelling salts for reviving the unconscious. So 'Invigorating' is a totally appropriate name for this juice. I wouldn't call this fruity as such the resinous, balsamic quality is more apparent than anything. The drydown is thankfully mellower than the opening. This is NOT at all for beginners, I think you have to be pretty seasoned to appreciate it...it's not my thing but It's not outside my realm of understanding. So yet another great scent from this house. Boadicea keeps on performing, I've not encountered a fragrance yet that I've been underwhelmed by but they have plenty so there's still time. Would I wear Invigorating? No, not my cup of tea.

13 years ago

Opens with promise a lovely tobacco note very similar to Cuir Mandarine. As other reviews have mentioned this quickly turns more into a patchouli fragrance than anything else. There's a hint of lavender in there too but as this dries down it doesn't offend me necessarily just disappoints...massively. Cuir mandarine was a bit disappointing and it's far better than this! You'd think they had similar longevity and projection etc being essentially very similar but no....this doesn't last at all and quickly retreats to a soft skin scent. Has the strange slightly smokey leather thing I mentioned from CM. Again Cuir Tabac smells good just doesn't 'pop' for me...disappointing at this price. Another one that warrants a second wear but I suspect it will be the same story second time around.

13 years ago

I was looking forward to trying this one so much that now I finally have, it feels like somewhat of an anticlimax. It smells fantastic to be fair an awesome tobacco wrapped in fruity mandarin two fairly common(especially male) perfumery elements brought together and done well I'd say. The patchouli is also big player in this fragrance and the leather drydown is okay but not quite what I was expecting. By that I mean it smells a little bit strange not a deep tanning leather or a smooth subtle leather just an odd, slightly disappointing leather. I think it's confused between whether it's a leather fragrance or a tobacco one and something doesn't quite sit right for me. Also, the longevity is good but quite average for such a pricey juice. Still having said that, I'm being overly critical because of the anticipation I felt before trying. Cuir Mandarine is a luxurious and enjoyable fragrance but I don't think I'll be adding it to my collection just yet, I think this requires a second wear and I'll update if I change my mind. Update: Wearing this again today and it's patchouli all the way! Those mandarin notes are quite fleeting and the leather/tobacco feel is apparent but the basis is in earthy patchouli which in this context is actually quite nice. It must be stronger for others than it is for the wearer. Yet again my mum commented on my sillage trail and said "whatever you're wearing is too strong!" then added "It's smells alright though." I'd have to agree with my mums appraisal really Cuir Mandarine is okay.

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13 years ago

Terre d'Hermes Parfum

Hermès

houdini

Okay so the parfum version of Terre d'Hermes landed in my possession recently. I dismissed it at first as being a sample of the EDT which I own and thoroughly enjoy wearing and very nearly gave it straight to a friend. Upon closer inspection however, I realised it was the Parfum version and couldn't wait to try it and test it side by side with the EDT. Just to mention before I tried it, I looked at the comments on here and was astounded to see that a few people have that they like the EDP but will stick to the EDT...'hmmmm? that's curious I thought' But upon trialling this EDP I can understand why. Terre d'Hermes parfum starts out instantly recognisable as the original but also vastly different in it's delivery it seems more orangey, less bitter and more juicy. Also it has a deeper boozier feel to me but less dry spice and vetiver compared to the original which really appealed at first. As the EDP dries down it becomes more familiar and converges with the EDT, spice and resin coming through but it still just slightly different. The drydown again they move out of synch the EDP becoming sweeter and woodier but less apparent than the EDT. Yes that's right the EDT has far superior longevity by a good few hours which is not expected at all. Also the thing which to me makes Terre d'Hermes is the benzoin and pepper with the vetiver which gives a roughness and dryness against that orange note. I thought this EDP was more juicy and orangey at first which really appealed but strangely as the fragrance progresses it's the EDT that retains more character and more of that orange note. So all round the EDT is better although there's no way you could like one and not the other as they're so close in smell. Interesting how subtle nuances can make all the difference and they certainly do here, some people will prefer this to the EDT, I did at first too as I mentioned but really can't get over how poor the longevity is.

13 years ago

This fragrance is not really one for the guys but I enjoyed it enough to review Dia anyway. The effect of a floral aldehyde musk fragrance would usually be a unappealing one but this somehow has a retained quality to it. For me reading the sample card was a bit daunting when it said the perfect compliment to Gold (I'm assuming Pour Femme) but I couldn't help but think about Gold Homme, which is the stuff of nightmares! Strangely when I sprayed this on I had the awful realisation that Dia does indeed have the same feel as the opening to Gold. It's very, very, very powdery and smells like talcum powder and almost feels thick in your nostrils. Then it becomes complex and the aldehydic, floral qualities come through but never become too much. It's a great balance and I'm no expert in florals or feminine fragrances but I think this one shows restraint. I get an overriding vibe of peony, rose and peach to the subtle but enduringly strong musk. I'm so glad it just dried down with soft woods rather than animal stink which I was half expecting. I'd like this on a female but it's not exactly daring for Amouage more soft and elegant like something my mum might wear.

13 years ago

Again I thought I'd reviewed this way back but obviously not! My girlfriend wore this the other night (I got her the set for Christmas...I know...I know... what a guy!;) and I'd forgotten just how much I liked 1872. Couldn't put my finger on exactly what was going on or the similarity to other fragrances I was encountering. 1872 has the sweetness of rose and white floral elements jasmine and lily of the valley without any of the negatives. It has an engaging fruitiness pineapple and berries. Musk, sandalwood, patchouli and cedar make up what is a complex and woody floral scent which is feminine but not overly so. I absolutely love this and no matter what naysayers might say about Clive Christian, the house delivers on quality in almost every respect. This lasts and lasts on her skin and is yet more magic, changing slightly each time I smell it and that's the mark of a true masterpiece in my opinion. I like the Men's version but this one is a great gift for that special lady in your life.

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13 years ago

CK One Red Edition for Him

Calvin Klein

houdini

Okay so now the 90's unisex concept of CK One has been scrapped for the his/her approach and frankly they needn't have bothered. This is a boardroom fragrance and by that I don't mean suitable for a businessman. This fragrance feels contrived and has more than an air of 'fragrance by committee' about it. Not only does CK One Red conform to the sex specific paradigm but it also has the bland flavour of the month, jump on the bandwagon feel to it...Namely Tonka bean. Burberry Brit Rhythm was uninspiring but CK One Red is not even as enjoyable as that. The blast of fresh but cheap smelling fruit and aldehydes which settle into a tonka, vetiver and musk, just doesn't work for me... there's no harmony there. Not bad as such, perfectly wearable and I'm sure will sell but it's never going to set the world alight. The reason for my (mini)rant is the lack of imagination shown here, to be fair to the house CK Shock and Encounter are reasonably brave efforts in recent years. I actually liked the original CK One & particularly CK Be just for being fresh, young and accessible. These new 'ones' just seem like Clavin Klein's attempt to 'reboot' the CK One brand/franchise in a similar way Hollywood is doing with increasing velocity.

13 years ago

I'm a little frustrated that there's fragrances I thought I'd posted reviews for, then when I check turns out I haven't! Nevermind. Nothing to dislike here. Voyage D'Hermes is a classy scent a woody, musk, spiced citrus, reminiscent of Cartier Declaration with prominent cardamom and fresh citrus. I wouldn't have thought it to be everyone's cup of tea, but with the relative popularity of scents like Dior Homme sport lemon & spice is a popular combo. I'm a real spice fan and as such enjoy this fragrance. I don't think it's as intrusive as the Cartier and slightly more wearable.The verdict then? It doesn't inspire me but I'd wear it. Great for spring and summer, Hermes deliver yet again.

13 years ago

Okay call me crazy but does Pi Neo have the almond/vanilla thing of the original? Are these additional notes listed here? Because I'm feeling some of them but with the definite accord of the original which is primarily a very sickly, supercharged amaretto/marzipan vibe. It's more than that though the original is so complex and tips the balance between supreme and awful on my skin. Something about Pi puts me in mind of a poisonous noxious gas that smells super sweet just before you succumb to the fumes. Well Neo has a complete different opening and indeed smells like a different fragrance entirely...namely a really nicely done mardarin and cedar fresh accord. However as it dries down the signiture sweet vanilla and almond of the original come through. Strange transition but it works and the cedar remains too making it slightly different to Pi in that it doesn't really have that off putting nature and Neo actually works on my skin. Not bad all in all but Longevity is not great like the original.

13 years ago

I'm sniffing around for some new summer fragrances already and this is one that had got away... until now. Very pleasant indeed, aquatic but not just a lightweight burst of alcohol and citrus with little character remaining after, Acqua Essenziale has more substance than that. I get a fresh, sparkling clean accord of lemon leaf and labdanum and sharp grapefruit in the top notes with a hint of lavender too. I can't say I got the mint but it definitely has a cool quality, temperature wise. I get the comparisons to Silver Shadow Altitude and Bleu de Chanel but it's by no means the same kinda reminds me of LOTS of fragrances citrus/marine/fruit/musk/vetiver you get the picture. I can't justify adding this fragrance to my collection as it just falls short on the imagination stakes but I wouldn't blame anyone for getting this and wearing it regularly because it smells good.

13 years ago

To my surprise this is yet another fragrance I thought I'd reviewed or at least posted my review for ages ago...but obviously not. I won't go on too much as pretty much everything that needs to be said regarding this fragrance has been. I get an overwhelming air of sexiness and an alluring quality which I think was exactly it's intention...the perfect mixture of cardamom, bergamot and a hint of lavender. The drydown is superb slightly powdery and a very clean cedar/vetiver. The citrus and fruity berry vibe comes more to the forefront than the spice which is probably what makes this fragrance so socially excepted and commercially successful. I for one can take a bit more cardamom (the likes of Hypnose) but obviously YSL wanted to strike up a balance that would appeal to many. It's funny how many of my friends who are not into fragrance (that's all of them!) own this fragrance. One of my very good friends told me he wears it almost exclusively now after years of searching for his signature. I should point out that he is a bit of a ladies man and I was informed on good authority that this fragrance was a lady killer and drives them wild apparently? I don't know about all that but I don't see why the average non collector or scent enthusiast couldn't wear this everyday in every situation, just smell incredibly good and be content. I need more variation in my life but I enjoy owning and wearing this on occasion it's an excellent fragrance.

13 years ago

Halston man has a metalic, herbal quality with fresh top notes and quite a curious mixture of accords...it smells okay, not great or even good... just okay. The citrus opening is sharpened further by labdanum which gives way to a gentle musk and patchouli in the base. My tastes just won't allow me to subscribe to this one, I suspect it would maybe grow on me after several wears. Amber is a better fragrance for me but they both suffer from poor longevity on my skin.

13 years ago

Halston Man amber is a soft, subtle, warm amber scent which to me has an air of sophistication to it. Not a nose burning amber but it has prominence, cedar, myhrr and oud give it an incense vibe but fresh and not smokey. I love it, totally up my street and verging on an almost sweetness but with enough bitter elements to keep it at bay. The problem I have is that it didn't last all that well on my skin compared with how good it smelled. What I mean is that my perception of the high quality of this fragrance was not matched by it's longevity unfortunately. Man Amber was gone pretty quickly which is a real shame.

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13 years ago

London Rain Black Cedarwood & Juniper

Jo Malone London

houdini

I really looked forward to this fragrance from Jo Malone and frankly I'm a bit disappointed. It opens well and needless to say it smells very different on the card to my skin. That opening is fresh juniper and hints of sweetness against what I consider to be quite an odd cedar accord. I can't tell you why it's odd but as it settles down the woods go a little creamy(almost like there's a hint of vanilla in it) which to me is not indicative of the smell after it has rained, in London or anywhere else! I'll give it this though...it's long lasting for a Jo Malone and smells great at first, then I go off it then it comes back into favour for a cosy drydown. The smell doesn't transition or change really just my perception of it perhaps? The juniper does die away however after a bright, breezy opening. I don't know what Jo & her perfumers do to make things not smell like what they are but it's fascinating. I'll pass on this one it's a rare cedar that I won't wear and this is rare indeed.

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13 years ago

Dirty English for Men

Juicy Couture

houdini

Right okay then...Juicy couture... what a gaudy, utterly horrible brand it is. I remember a few years back girls walking around with those awful sweatpants on with the logo across the bum...although maybe that says more about me than it does them? Anyway...I'd heard good things about this fragrance mainly on here and thought I'd give it a try. Blind bought Dirty English as it was going cheap and I must say it's not that bad. Kinda reminds me of the sweet 'Dr Peppery' vibes coming from Dunhill Custom shame is it has similar longevity issues. Dirty English opens with mandarin it has a tobacco, vanilla and cardamom vibe with smokiness and above all leather. The dense woody base to this fragrance is remarkably deep and I expected great longevity but it fell short in my opinion...not too bad though. The first hour or so of this fragrance is the best but there's just something inherently cheap about it which means it will never excite me. I'll have to wear it more to form a better opinion but I don't get oud from it really, not what I consider to be an Oud accord anyway. Dirty by name, Dirty by nature and a pleasant surprise of a fragrance.

13 years ago

Obviously my initial review was too explicit and has been removed but I was compelled to profanity by how bad this juice smells. I will be more concise and use less expletives this time... Yagatan is awful!

13 years ago

At last we're venturing into good territory with these Caron frgarances. L'Anarchiste has a cool name, a horrible but standout flacon and most importantly a very pleasing juice inside. That's the main thing of course and it's an interesting mixture of musk a fairly clean thing coming from vetiver and white floral vibe with the sweet spice of cinnamon. It's not a common smell and I almost get a bit of tea from it with a slightly metallic edge. Great stuff I like it.

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13 years ago

Jazz Club

Maison Martin Margiela

houdini

In answer to the question below... This has great longevity but better than Pure Havanne? I don't see them as being worthy of comparison, scent wise and who needs better longevity than Pure Havanne? It's a powerhouse!!! Not a huge fan of boozy scents as a rule but I've liked a few with rum notes recently so this intrigues and I also love jazz so this fragrance appeals to me before even sniffing it out. Now that I have I'm very impressed it's lovely, A kind of boozy, tonka bean and tobacco vibe with a leathery/vanilla drydown. I'll be honest I expected something heavier and more avant garde when attempting to evoke a jazz club vibe. I half expected it to be a bit more raw, dirty, earthy or smokey maybe a heroin note in there? It has a bit of those elements but is pretty smooth and refined on the whole and will appeal to a wide audience I suspect. Projection is moderate and longevity is good. I'd recommend it.

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13 years ago

(untitled)

Maison Martin Margiela

houdini

Well...I just need to start by saying I had no preconceptions about this fragrance at all and approached it with an open mind. I subsequently discovered that it was the product of Daniella Andrier a perfumer I respect highly due to her simple but creative approach. Obviously that doesn't mean I like everything that she does but the vast majority of her works appeal to me. {Untitled} for me is one of those cases where I think she's hit on something special. Perfectly unisex, wonderfully inoffensive and suitable for regular wear. Galbanum, bitter orange, sweet jasmine cedar and incense...it's great! These elements combine to make something very well blended and effortlessly green. It has a very natural accord without smelling like any one thing you'd find in nature...if that makes sense? Maybe that could be interpreted as a sign of a truly well conceived fragrance? I think so and I really like it but it's not a priority for the collection just yet.

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13 years ago