It’s s a fragrance that smells like sweet temptation with a playful wink. A gourmand with a floral twist, delicious, feminine and little flirtatious.It opens with juicy raspberry and soft neroli, bringing freshness and lightness to the composition. The heart unfolds into creamy tuberose and orange blossom, white-floral and sensual, yet without any suffocating heaviness. A touch of iris adds a subtle powdery nuance. The base blends caramel, vanilla, musk and soft woods, wrapping everything in warm comfort. It’s sweet, but not sugary, sensual, yet still girlish. Perfect for those moments when you want to smell mmm…, the kind that makes someone lean in and ask what you’re wearing. Longevity is around six hours with moderate projection, noticeable and alluring, but never overwhelming.

It’s a joyful, distinctly girlish fragrance, like a pastel dress on a sunny day. It opens with violet and a softly sweet hint of citrus, flowing smoothly into intoxicating visteria touched with rose. The composition unfolds gently and harmoniously, like a pastel bouquet arranged with care. In the base, tonka bean with vanilla and a subtle trace of patchouli lend warmth and softness, wrapping the floral heart like a light shawl draped over the shoulders. Longevity is around six hours, with moderate projection, noticeable, yet never trying to dominate the room. It’s a pleasant, well balanced scent that lifts the mood like your favourite cup of coffee, a little bottled pick me up. At the same time, it lacks edge and depth, everything feels pretty, polished and safe. Instead of a true perfumery spark, we get an aesthetic, well crafted creation that appeals to many… but rarely lingers in the memory.

today I’m testing Eau de Memo by Memo Paris, a sample I received with a recent purchase. The opening positively sparkles with bergamot, before green tea moves to the forefront. At this stage, it reminds me of Assam of India by Berdoues. I don’t detect any floral notes at all. There is, however, a leather accord that brings to mind the interior of a new car. The combination of leather, citrus and tea is very interesting. In the final stage, iris comes through. I’d say the longevity is around five hours, and the projection sits fairly close to the skin. It’s a pleasant composition, though I wouldn’t call it groundbreaking. 

I’d read so much about this fragrance and finally managed to buy a partial bottle at a good price. Moonlit Eveningis a vintage leaning chypre composition, blending nostalgia with a subtle harmony of notes. The opening is spicy and citrusy, I can clearly detect pepper oil and nutmeg. After a while, a floral heart emerges, the fragrance is beautifully blended, making it difficult to pick out individual notes. The base is mossy and earthy, enriched with honey and a generous dose of patchouli. Unfortunately, it’s the patchouli that takes centre stage here, heavy and cellar like, and that’s a style I simply don’t enjoy in fragrance. Longevity is around eight hours, with subtle, moderate projection. I’ll be passing this bottle on, as I don’t think I’ll ever warm up to this interpretation of patchouli. And you, what are you

It is a true ode to vanilla, celebrating feminine warmth and elegance. The vanilla here is sweet, creamy and almost velvety, yet balanced by cool lavender and subtly lifted with a touch of ginger, giving the composition a hint of character and modern freshness. It reminds me of a soft cashmere jumper, hour just before sunset, and a quiet sense of confidence. Longevity and projection are both very good.

it’s a deeper, more refined interpretation of the original, which I adore, by the way. The composition opens with juicy, ripe mirabelle plum, golden and almost velvety in feel. For contrast, soft, aromatic oakmoss and davana emerge, adding a subtle earthiness and lending the scent its distinctive character. In the base, sandalwood and musk wrap the fragrance in a creamy, comforting warmth like a soft shawl. Longevity is around six hours. The projection is noticeable at first, though it gradually settles into something more intimate and close to the skin. 

Musc de Soie by Van Cleef & Arpels is a subtle fragrance with an exceptionally clean feel. The opening aldehydes give the impression of a freshly pressed, crisp white shirt. As it develops, sandalwood and powdery musk come to the fore, soft, creamy and enveloping, with no sharp edges. True to its name, the scent is silky and refined. Longevity is around six hours, while the projection creates a delicate, close to the skin aura. 

This is one of my favourite creations by this perfumer. It’s a gourmand fragrance that draws attention with its sweet, caramel vanilla character, yet does so in a remarkably elegant way. The opening is sweet and alluring, with notes of cocoa butter, velvety chocolate, vanilla, nuts, dates and tonka bean. As it develops, the scent softens to reveal rich, milky caramel, sugar and a touch of rum. The overall impression is reminiscent of a creamy dessert served alongside a cup of your favourite cappuccino. The fragrance offers good longevity with moderate projection, gently enveloping the wearer and those nearby.

I tested White Jasmine & Gardenia by COCHINE. It’s a composition created for those who enjoy fresh, floral scents. The opening is green and crisp, with pronounced leafy notes and a mandarin accord, followed shortly by a rich floral bouquet. Jasmine, gardenia and tuberose are the most prominent, yet the fragrance remains light, green and fresh throughout.

The composition evokes the feeling of a walk through a freshly cut meadow, holding an armful of these flowers. The base is musky, warm and slightly balsamic. Unfortunately, the longevity is around three hours, and the scent becomes quite close to the skin relatively quickly. It’s a pleasant offering, although there are many similar fragrances available on the market at much more friendly price point.

I enjoyed the classic Alexandria II, so I was curious to see how this interpretation would perform. The fragrance opens with rose and spices, but almost immediately oud and a pronounced animalic note take centre stage, making the composition feel slightly overwhelming. As it develops, the scent becomes more powdery and a hint of amber starts to emerge in the background, although the animalic facet remains noticeable throughout. What I enjoy most is the woody, musky base with a touch of unsweetened vanilla. Longevity is at least eight hours, with good projection. It’s a well blended, decidedly winter fragrance, best suited to those who appreciate bold, almost primal, animalic accords.