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I've had this for a week now and being the proud owner of the entire 24 line I was eagerly anticipating the launch of this one. Blind bought from the back room of the store because they hadn't even put them on the shelves yet and had no testers. Frankly, I thought how much better can this be than the original(?) a fragrance which was right up my street, sweet, fruity, gourmand but resinous, woody and creamy with vanilla. Well Scent story have managed to nail it again! This is quite simply 24 Gold with an amped up Oud note which is prominent and obvious from the very beginning. It's woodier, spicy in a darker way with more pink pepper in the opening for sure but with that sweetness lingering underneath. This lasts for several hours and then it dry's down to a very familiar vanilla 24 Gold accord. This is stunning juice and a perfectly welcome addition to my collection despite owning the original. Although I love it 24 Gold can become a little cloying after a while just due to it's sweetness and massive longevity and projection. This oud addition is a remedy to this issue because of the definite transition between the opening few hours and more recognizable sweetness later. By the time it does arrive, it's softer and welcome to my nose. Huge projection and longevity as expected...just get it!
So they've finally landed on fragrantica! My main concern when these were announced was really how much better are they going to be? I've had oud editions for a week now and I can honestly say I'm glad I purchased them despite having all of the 24 range (and back up bottles.) I've started with this one because in my opinion it differs more from the original than Gold does with it's counterpart. The original 24 Platinum was an odd fish, a musky oud rose fragrance but with a sharpness of citrus throughout, which made for a strange combo. Stranger still that oud was not listed among the notes, yet abundantly clear to any nose sniffing this fragrance. What I liked about this was that it was unusual and unlike anything else out there. The closest comparison I could draw was Acqua di Parma Colonia Oud and perhaps Tom Ford Oud wood with a nod to more common Oud/rose combos as well..as I said 24 Platinum was a bit of a rubix cube. This oud edition is quite a departure in that it's more of a traditional Oud/rose and frankly not as challenging for me as the original was. Oud edition still has elements of that metallic, citrus thing from the original but it's very muted. Think of a strong musky rose from Montale I think this is somewhere between White Aoud and Roses Musk. I've used those as recent reference points but I think quite accurately as it does have that synthetic OTT vibe of Montale about it. For this reason the opening is too rosy for me and not as refined as something with a more woody charater, medicinal oud vibe or patchouli/vanilla/saffron etc... That's not to say I don't like it...far from it! This is superb fragrance for the price and I would encourage anyone looking for a rose fragrance to check this out before forking out big sums on niche juice. £37.50 for 100ml's can't argue with that! I mentioned the opening but have neglected the drydown somewhat because it is really really nice. The rose is still there but settles back, the musk is less prominent and the woody qualities sing on my skin becoming softer. Longevity and projection are insane.
I'm not the greatest fan of Zerjoff...only a couple of greats among the ranks and far too many disappointing scents. This one 1888, I had no preconceptions about and just picked at random to sample, I have to say I'm inpressed. Shocking really as I'm not the biggest lover of florals and especially white, blossomy ones. That's what I get from this is a lovely balanced floral opening spiced slightly with pepper and cloves. Then a warm woody heart with a beautiful neroli note. Yes 'beautiful'! Not that I hate neroli but it's not my favorite thing in the world. Just surprising when it appeared after what I thought was going to be a floriental/amber/spicy type scent it gives you a lovely fresh balance of the white floral note. The drydown is a soft powdered, suede and florals. Complex and very well conceived juice this one, I'm sure it would be a hit with those of you who like a gentle scent. I found it interesting and stylish, and quite Italian which is not something I often associate which Zerjoff, despite their origin. I loved this fragrance to be honest, a little bit disappointed by the performance it's good but not great, glad a checked it out though.
I don't know...? perhaps there's something wrong with me? I love sweet scents, adore almonds, anything gourmand really and enjoy the idea of wheaty, milky notes. So why on earth are so many of these creations just insipidly unbearable to me... especially on my skin? I have a real problem with some almond fragrances they are just plain harsh and weird, not the lovely creamy almond of something like AdP Mandorlo di sicilia. Jour de Fete isn't one of those deep heavy affairs it's just plain unsettling. The top notes to me are iris and in this instance come over as ghostly and aloof. They float above the milky, wheaty creamy notes of almond and vanilla giving a cuddling effect which just doesn't work for me. It's a bizarre fragrance this one. The more I smell it the more I feel I'm desperately rooting with my snout like a pig searching for truffles, occasionally stumbling upon something remotely pleasing. On the whole though it's bitter to me and gets slightly worse even as it settles down but luckily for me the longevity poor. It didn't stop me buying it for my girlfriend for Christmas though I just couldn't deny £20 for 100ml of L'AP...I hope she likes it and it smells better on her.
I can completely understand the position of the reviewer below this is YET another Full incense/Avignon/cardinal etc etc etc...the list is actually huge! A prominent fresh, light white frankincense note which sparkles out of this creation and I can't help but enjoy it. Sure it's not original and this (as far as I can remember?) is my first from this house so not the best start in terms of impressing me. The lady in the shop had the brief of "I like resinous, woody perfume, complex you know? Possibly something with incense and spices?" As soon as I mentioned incense she sprung to life and offered up lots of very familiar stuff infact she did bring Cardinal over too! When I asked for incense I didn't mean four perfumes which all smell the same!!! Oh and also...to speak on that wooden coffin...apparently they are made by disabled people in Patagonia or the Andes or somewhere? I didn't know if they were promoting the fair trade, ethical aspect of the manufacture or what? I'm sure it's not exploitative or slave labour or anything but when you see a brand demanding a high price, in a boutique store just seems a little misplaced. Anyway morality aside, Fueguia seem to offer up some interesting juice so I will reserve judgement until I've sampled more of the line. Average performance and nothing really new here scent wise but I still adore the smell it's stunning!
You never see this one anywhere in the UK even in shops which have a comprehensive selection of Comme des garcons fragrances. Luckily I found it in the CdG perfume shop in Paris and my word is 3 the epitome of this houses fragrances(?) It's strangely aloof, avant garde and yet inviting. I can see how some of the fragrances from this house can leave people cold (especially this one) but I embrace the oddity and love to challenge my nose. So I get fresh bright frankinsence type top notes even a hint of juniper the heart is slightly peppery and herbal then a woody drydown. It's an odd fragrance and does have that cellophane, synthetic, new magazine, ink print smell to it. To me though it's quite warm and woody and comes across quite natural. I may just have a soft spot for CdG, Mark Buxton's creativity and will forgive them pretty much anything. It has an incense signature to it though and I love that about many of their fragrances, it's certainly not boring. Modern and not for everyone but I enjoyed it, performance was average and longevity was not so good.
This is as classic as floriental amber gets but for all it's 'classicness' it's quite odd. Dated is the word for this one, seriously dated. The floral opening (must be lilac?) is actually quite pleasant but not to my taste. Then the heart of this fragrance is opoponax, benzoin and vanilla. It's very balmy and powdered I sort of love it. Royal Bain represents the warm elements I love in perfume but somehow it's not something I could wear. I can't explain it...there's a certain stigma to it. On my skin a bit strange but I could imagine it being incredible in a hot bath so I've purchased it for my girlfriend for christmas.
Nothing I haven't smelled before but somehow Roses musk has bowled me over. I didn't try it on my skin but chemistry wise I do think that scents can smell different on different skin but not vastly. I mention that because I got my girlfriend to try this as I had samples on both wrists at this point. I kept sniffing her throughout the day and this is what I thought. Roses musk starts out with a very bright, juicy rose note which I deem to be feminine, possibly with the addition of jasmine? It's too rosy for me in all honesty and being a Montale this 'Opening' period is longer than many perfumes but when settled it starts to shine. The rose settles in and a soft white musk and I could swear an almost vanilla and patchouli at the back of this making it almost edibly beautiful. I smelled this in Belgium and just days earlier I'd been in Paris and eaten very fancy fresh Macarons with a rose flavour to many of them, this reminded me of that. This is a lovely, powerful, long lasting but soft rose scent.
Another fragrance I remember from back in the 90's which I simply don't see anywhere anymore. Luckily I managed to stumble upon it once more and the memories came flooding back. This is a complex woody, fresh scent but has an overiding oldskool musky element. It's a masculine, true aquatic, with hints of herbal greeness in the opening and dry cedar oakmoss and sandalwood in the drydown. Still this isn't my style and never really has been but I think fragrances being released today could take note that there's more ways to do woody or aquatic scents than bland fakery. Suitable for all occasions this one and good performance too. Also a very interesting bottle design which has stood the test of time.
Dear oh dear L'Homme Sport is awful! Can't believe it took this line so long to get a 'Sport' flanker anyway and they needn't have bothered. Seriously how can you cock up what is on the whole not a bad line of fragrances? citrus/lemon verbena and mild spices should be great? Well by giving it an insipidly synthetic, chemical amber/cedar base! That has to be it because (and I hate to be melodramatic here) it's offensive to my nose! Generic cheap and hashed together is the feel. Sport deviates too far from the original L'Homme(which is pretty average anyhow), if they'd have gone down a route of bergamot/lemon verbena/corriander/vetiver which would mirror the originals lemon/ginger thing it might have been a bit boring but better than this. The juice is a cool colour, that's about all the positive spin I can put on it, oh and it lasted quite well on my skin...unfortunately.