Good vibes. Seriously? That was the best name you could come up with? I mean there's nothing wrong with it I suppose, but what's right with it? that's what I'd like to know. Almost entirely bored by this. It's a happy, fruity, floral. Nothing more. Nothing really to see here.

Loved Empower you! Yeah, I'm being nice about By Orlov! This is a sharp, fizzing citrus of grapefruit and lemon, over light cologne heart of delicate florals and dries down to a vague musk. Okay it's not setting the world alight but the opening really is something and the citrus is nicely extended throughout the composition. I can't knock it!!! Okay I'll try.... the name is silly. Empower who? Me? Minor criticism though.

Preamble: So allow me to not be very nice about these perfumes, hopefully in a very short and concise way. I had nothing against the brand previous to this, in fact I really enjoyed a couple of their previous back cat. I feel this 'By...' collection has somewhat missed the mark and the names rubbed me up the wrong way, the samples were 'free' from the website but actually postage from France was pretty pricey so....not really but that's just for starters . I gave a huge ranting explanation on IG so I'm not going to put too fine a point on it here, I was just disappointed by the lack of imagination of these. They're competent perfumes and I even liked a couple out the eight released, and I'm not saying every new perfume should be a groundbreaking, art piece, but some collections feel like they've just been cynically jizzed out for the sake of it. Sorry. It's a crowded market and unless you are bringing the ruckus, then kinda don't bother. This was the first one I tired and it's so saccharine sweet and reminiscent of every silly, screeching, jammy sweet, oud rose, evoking Montale or Mancera to me straight away. Rose perfumes, simply don't have to be this. I couldn't wear this, it's toooooooooo much. The vanillic qualities are brutal, the rose is brutal, the metallic musky qualities are brutal, the strength and tenacity are brutal. The nuance.... non existent. It's hard for me not to 'like' it because it's not an unpleasant smell per se and after about 10 hours when mellowed, sure it's kinda alright, but I don't think I could see it through those initial hours without feeling sick as a dog. If you're a fan of this kind of turbo oud rose that's been set fast in sugar syrup, then go ahead, but please don't wear it around me. Finally, There's a few ways the name could be interpretated. 1) Out of the box...The creative cliche. the dated, buzzword/sales speak to mean this is a rose perfume which gains it's inspiration from 'outside the box' , the metaphorical 'box' of conformity. 2) It's an entirely, on the nose, ironically knowing title, because it's clearly not thinking outside the box is it? 3) Totally post modern, hyper honest title about an off the shelf formula with not a bone of creativity or originality in it's body.... 'yeah guys, we just got it out of the box at the lab at IFF or Symerise.' You be the judge!

I get the connections to tabac blond ad Cuir canage but I'd say it's like a subtle, more elegant Knize ten. Also Creed's royal english leather gets a mention in the smells like, well I think the commonality here is the floral, leather base the wonderful waxy Cuir 17500. Now I'm not saying that it is definitely present, but it has the same creamy, orangeblossom/jasmine/ylang waxiness, and fleshy, smooth, iris, leather, quality which that base possesses. Any iteration and augmentation of this vibe, fascinates me. I find this to be floral but nowhere near as brutal ad full on as the Dior, neither is it Knize ten with it's masculine, soapier appeal. Cuir fetiche goes off in search of new ground and is largely successful at finding it in the shape of a more powdery feel than anything I've easily compared it to above. The fact that I don't find it redundant, and the change between opening and drydown is noticeable, (handy in this sort of fragrance) means that this is a winner for me. Another good outing from the house.

This fragrance reminds me in spirit of Batucada by L'Artisan while not smelling like it really, other than being a kind of fresh, fruity, cologne, scent. I get the subtlety and mild creaminess of lactones, which lends a slight coconut quality supporting essentially a mild green, citrus, musk. I really enjoyed it to be honest. Bahiana was all set to be a snorefest but it actually has some really endearing qualities and dries down to a beautiful base, which retains the fresh top notes.

So the ambers from this house are a interesting bunch, I doubt they'd have three or four if each didn't have something unique to say. I actually think that ambre mythique is my favourite upon a quick sniff. This is not a overly sweet amber, but the vibes of precieux are there, but the focus here is more on the incense aspect and that alive, zing but greasy medicinal feel of olibanum and the uncompromising heady myrrh, carefully woven in. I have to wear this properly to continue this review but the way resins are handled is really well considered.

I'm starting to appreciate patchouli perfumes in a whole new way from my dalliances into amateur perfumery. In a technical sense it's hard to extend and exalt patchouli and yet conversely it's also a very forgiving material, which blends very well with many other materials. It's either in a crucial support role, or it's the star of the show (like in this instance) and in order to get depth and do something interesting with it, you have to know what you're doing. I think this one is stunning, I really do. The quality here is astonishing. It's deep but it's not a heavy or hippy patchouli despite the kind of Hendrix-esque packaging of psychedelic, paisley. I get sandalwood, and discrete support, perhaps some resins, just helping to soften the hard bits and sharpen the duller aspects of patchouli. The result is a very fluid, smooth experience of smoky earth and mild, damp, camphor to sweeter truffle (I kinda mean mushroom and chocolate) the opening is actually quite bright, perhaps orange like? Then held down both warm and sweet with musks and resin. I think it's divine and my wardrobe is criminally under-subscribed with patchouli fragrances I can think of Zino and L'Instant homme and that's about it folks. This is really good for patch fans and just fans of nicely balanced perfume. I think if you are expecting a really, witchy, next level, power patchouli you would look elsewhere but still it can't be denied that this is one of if not the finest in this genre, certainly that I've ever sniffed. UPDATE:07/07/21 I think I forgot to say how much a lovely rose note is actually part of this composition, but it's quite veiled by all the Patchouli.

So I'm revisiting this brand after many years and they were actually among the first niche perfumes I tried with L'Artisan, Serge, Goutal, and Nicolai. I found this one fascinating, partly because it's transition from slightly bizarre, not so rouge, pineapple, fruity musk fragrance, into a kind of rose/geranium and probably my favourite floral, carnation fragrance is nothing short of miraculous. Genuinely not fond of the opening, has an 'off' sense to it but that's just the wonderful, clove tinged, creamy scent that emerges underneath possibly not jiving with the tropical top notes?? I'm not sure. I liked it when settled after an hour or so. I don't get the comparisons to Rochas femme, other than a carnation note there's no similarities to me but there you go.

The problem with this line is a bewildering array of flankers which, similar to Guerlain if you're not paying attention can be a little alienating. I do try them from time to time but can never remember which one is which. Minor, minor issue because I love the original Elixir and I'm completely smitten with this one!!! It's absolutely BRILLIANT!!! The opening is curious mixture of citrus and fizzy confectionery, like an orange, juicy and real meeting a sharp, pink grapefruit with some powdered refreshers thrown in for good measure, a perfect mix of reality and fantasy. The best thing about this fragrance is the use of an amber accord which is bolstered by gourmand effects, the chunk of patchouli but not as weighed down by it as some compositions, JCE manages to keep it light with top notes which seem to morph into the mid and remain for a while. Mention caramel to me in a fragrance and I can feel my teeth aching and my cloying, gag reflex started to engage at the prospect of smelling bisabolene or ethyl maltol all day, but this is soooooo well done it's smooth balanced perfectly in the way only a master the calibre of Ellena could. It's a bit like Angel but with huge amounts of restraint, and totally different. I find it gorgeous and always have said that Elixir smelled as though it's perfectly unisex but I think this one is a little more feminine. I'm fine with that, I'm wearing the shit out of it today and contemplating a full bottle (finally im going to get something from this line!) L'ambre is a very, very, good wear. I love it!

So when I unfurled my little sweetie wrapped sample and read the description of Shazam! I'd expected something a touch heavier on the amber/cacao side of things. Well no let's backtrack a little. Before I even spritzed it I gave it to my partner to try, she read the description knowing nothing about the brand, Then she said in a challenging tone "hmmmm well we'll see if it smells like Marrakesh shall we?" (She's been to Morocco a few times see) Instantly upon spritzing she was like 'OMG! It does!!!' Needless to say she adores it to the point she wants a bottle right away! but also added that it reminded her of being brutally massaged in a steam room by a 18 stone lady, with arms like an Olympic shot-putter. Which just made me really want to go to Morocco now. Anywho... this is a really lovely and well judged composition from Sarah. I reckon that the general creaminess of the amber accord in here sits right with the incense wood and mildly spiced nature of the top notes and the freshness of that kind of orange opening. Really liked it, update when I've worn it properly.