Xerjoff have disappointed me time and time again with their repertoire but something about this one with it's strong opening told me things were going to be different. Modoc comes straight out with a sweet woody opening which is nothing short of beautiful. Iris and vanilla create almost like a very soft leather I was thinking at first. The powdery Iris accord is massive in this fragrance and coupled with vanilla becomes turbo charged in it's creamy sweetness. Almost to the point of turkish delight...even a hint of rose in there perhaps? This is tempered by woods & musky hints as it settles down though. To be honest it's a little much in terms of powder but I can't help but be intrigued by Modoc. This is my third time sampling it before reviewing and the previous outings just served to confuse me. When it dries down however it looses it's charm those opening few seconds promised so much but sadly Modoc doesn't deliver.

Not much to dislike about this one at all and very different from the original TdH to my nose, which is a good thing. That's not to say I dislike TdH, far from it in fact but it's just good to see a flanker which goes in a moderately different direction. The path doesn't deviate that far and it's a good scent and definitely wearable but nothing to warrant too much excitement. Clean sharp opening citrus which is a lemony/grapefruit type vibe to me. There's cedar coming through too and an aquatic note which is very well handled, not overly salty or synthetic smelling. The citrus gets decidedly more orangey as it dries down but it's not sweet mandarin type orange nor is it as bitter an orange as the original. The dry down is a clean woody cedar which works well and last okay on my skin. Personally I prefer Terre de Hermes mixture of interesting dryness, vetiver and bitter orange to this one. Eau Tres Fraiche is a quality citrus and a solid outing from Hermes nonetheless.

I'm excited can't wait to try this.

L man is an overwhelming pepper + citrus opening which is dominated by petitgrain. Something about the whole vibe, the whole delivery (if you like) is sharp but complex and somehow even oily. It's a strange combination of notes in here but I think coming together as a fragrance it works. Then dries down to a Oud and earthy but clean vetiver like, woody, diesel, petrolly smoke vibe of something from Xerjoff. 8 + hours later and I can still smell L, it has developed very nicely and is now nestled deep into my skin and I have to say its impressive in one respect but so it should be from CC. I can't say I've ever smelled anything similar before, it's a worthy addition to the line it's nothing too fancy that it can't be worn on a regular basis.

Cuir canage Well I was really anticipating trying this fragrance I'd actually walked past the Dior counter several times since this has been out but didn't try it. Finally got around to it and hadn't actually read the note breakdown beforehand. All I knew was... 1) This is a boutique Dior and as such is probably great. and... 2) That 'Cuir' means leather which makes me automatically very curious . Anyway 1) I was right there, this is a classy and well put together fragrance to add to the rest of this collection. 2) The leather note is well executed and softer than is anticipated. I was expecting the slap in the face of strength like leather Oud but it didn't come. The opening is a mixture of leather and powdery iris which I was taken with in the beginning, That leather note seemed sweeter and more appealing. As Cuir canage dries down it becomes increasingly more floral and the waxy white and yellow floral accord comes on strong. I seriously didn't detect any neroli in the opening but around 10 mins later it was growing and growing. It's clever though because it has the sweetness of jasmine the clean waxy strength of neroli and the signature of ylang ylang. The leather element is softer now after several hours (about 7) but still distinctively present and reminiscent (is spirit) of something like Midnight In Paris. Personally, I'm not sure I like leather and white florals in combination but I can't deny it's very well balanced in this composition and I can understand how many would like this fragrant offering. Truly a blend of the masculine and feminine and remains complex for hours. Quality is superb, longevity is excellent and has good sillage and projection but I'm not feeling it because of those florals which are a bit sour for me to the point where I wouldn't wear it. I've enjoyed the experience of wearing it this one time though.

Can't be bothered scrolling down to find my original review of this, but upon it's release I found it a kind of sickening, mangled waxy floral, leather with that Cuir 174500 base (Knize etc) but far less palatable. Now unless the formula I've just sampled again recently is significantly different to when it came out, I friggin' love Cuir Cannage!!! And paradoxically I would change a thing about my description above! It is a knize,waxy floral with a fruity, sugary, nectar sweetness in the opening, drying down to a very traditional, powdery floral musk and leather flesh. I think it's hindsight, knowing that Demachy didn't really make anything of note after this point, or it could be my taste (most probable) or it could be that reformulation thing, I remember it being harsh and, unforgiving. lumpy. It's none of those things, I enjoy it. Shame it's discontinued but the friend who's bottle I tried might be selling it, so could still be on the cards yet.

Honestly I'm in two minds about this new Opus. On the one hand I'm not the biggest fan of white florals and the Opus range in general are hit n miss with me. Opus VIII for me has enough spicing, woodiness and incense to give it Amouageness and a completely different feel from your average white floral. It has an undeniably upscale and complex feel to it. Jasmine is sweet and orange blossom and ylang ylang can be great when sparingly used and thankfully that's the case here. The opening is nice it dries down to a nice scent and thankfully there's enough going on with the balancing act of elements to make this a decent fragrance. I really would like a sample of this as I have samples of all the other Opus scents (which I could do with revisiting)Given a proper wear I think I could grow to like Opus VIII one more, it is quite floral and could be perceived as a little feminine perhaps? The main thing that detracted from it was the fact I tried Journey Man on the same day and that dwarfed this scent. Considering Journey is pretty unstated too that doesn't say a lot for VIII but as I've mentioned I think it might be a grower, it's certainly safer than VII which was Amouage spice madness!!! Needs revisiting for sure but nothing repulsed me.

@SDavis93 & @PaulDJ there is a EDP version of 'The One' but prepare to be disappointed, it's not much better than the EDT for Longevity and projection. I like Bleu it's a nice fragrance, I'm not a massive fan but I can see why it's considered as a modern classic. I Don't know how much different this is going to be?...maybe a little tweak here n there and truly make it stronger, I'll be convinced to get it. I will be disappointed if it's not much different to the EDT because otherwise why bother Chanel??? Oh yeah MONEY!

Well...I finally got around to trying it and first impressions are that this eau de parfum version is vastly different from the original to my nose. That was my first impression from the opening and then it was validated when I got home and tried both EDT & EDP together. I have to say I'm not the biggest advocate of Bleu anyway, it's alright a perfectly good fragrance, complex well executed just never bleu me away! (Sorry I had to!) This EDP then...? Well it starts out thicker, denser whatever you want to call it but it's everything I would expect a parfum version to be, in simple terms an amped up version of the original. The unfortunate thing here is that it's to Bleu's detriment in my opinion. It's not in question that the projection and longevity are miles better than the original but at the cost of subtlety and elegance. This version starts out uncompromisingly spicy, which comes across as a big combination of ginger, nutmeg & mint but somehow strongly of cardamom too. I know it's not listed among the notes but that's how it comes out to me. The ginger and mint are larger than life much more so than the EDT. The drydown is long lasting, and I have to say okay when settled but possess less subtlety and freshness and dare I say it seems a little cheap and reminiscent of lots of other recent releases in that regard. I should love this...in theory it is just what I like strong spices and a deep base, great longevity etc...but I much prefer the EDT...a fragrance I'm indifferent about. My appraisal is that the original is lighter, brighter and more nuanced despite lacking the obvious strength compared to this one. This is not the first time a EDP has disappointed, Terre d'Hermes springs to mind. I don't know what people are expecting, myself included but If you simply want better performance it's here but at the cost of smelling quite different to the original EDT...worse in my opinion. Not a bad fragrance but really not a good one either and gives me a whole new appreciation of the EDT.

Great stuff this I've tried a few citrus/white florals recently for summer additions to the collection and this one is pretty good on the whole. First of all the opening is purely lemony petitgrain and a bergamot which goes from a sharp citrus to a more mandarin type smell. This ties in perfectly with the discrete mixture of white florals at the heart of this fragrance. Orange blossom and neroli which is not too strong waxy or soapy partly due to being sweetened up with Jasmine and a base of musk. A really pleasant fragrance if you're looking for white florals and citrus, this is good stuff.

Three distinct fazes with this effort from A Lab on Fire the first is a bergamot lush and almost green. Then comes the geranium which is the accord basis for this fragrance and builds well, complimenting the base. The base is a soft powdery leather or suede but still fresh all the time. I don't necessarily agree that it's minimal because it has a distinct opening, heart and drydown which progress. L'Anonyme has well balanced and complimentary ingredients which kinda is minimal but hints at other sweeter notes. I like it, it's very wearable pretty good longevity, projection is okay at first then dies down. Check it out, there's not a great deal here not to like.

Every note in Nio is exquisitely crafted and the quality is apparent right form the get go. The opening is bright wonderful bergamot so natural but not at all sharp and with a leafy green nature prehaps with some galbanum too? reminiscent of Ninfeo Mio from Annick Goutal. It then goes very much into the white floral territory with waxy, clean neroli coming to the forefront in the next few minutes. Then the florals get sweeter with jasmine which completely makes this fragrance better than the neroli alone. I smell a warm base in the drydown and the subtlest hint of cardamom. Still a very good effort from Xerjoff, Nio is a superior citrus/white floral to be sure, definitely among the best I've tried but if you're not that keen on this sort of fragrance it still doesn't quite convince me enough to love it. Longevity and projection are pretty poor too.

I sampled this way back and couldn't remember what it was like which usually doesn't bode well at all. However, this is really special stuff and not your typical rose at all. I'm used to the heaviness of amber or oud with rose but Lyric adopts an entirely different approach. It opens with a transparent fresh citrus lime zest which then instantly becomes a subtle powder and musk with rose infused gently like rosewater or something? It has the galbanum and resiny incense feel of Amouage with a tiny tiny hint of smoke. The way this scent then works is a complex swirl of tiny hints of notes which change throughout the experience, so much so that I need desperately to get hold of some samples and wear Lyric properly. This is an enigmatic, distinctive and beautiful fragrance well worth checking out.