hmmmm... Odd notes here? I'd say this is a fresh, citrus, cologne type scent that morphs lower down into lavender and base leather hum. The citrus opening is misty, and coupled well with a powdery texture which could be the geranium but Marborough Cologne doesn't scream geranium in the way the notes here might suggest it should. I'm in awe of it though for some reason? It's just a soft and likeable version of your standard men's stuff from the 1960's to 90's (although this is from 1877!!!) I can't believe I've never tried it until now it's super. Actually that might be going a bit far but if I can get it really cheap, I'd consider it a bargain.

I remember this fragrance wafting around in the 90's and I'm pretty sure my mum and/or sisters owned a bottle at some point...but that really is only the top notes, the intimate drydown is less familiar but an absolute revelation to me. I'd neglected being interested in it myself but I've no idea why because Dune is FANTASTIC!!! This is much more the Frank Herbert Sci-fi novel inspired, towering sand dunes I'd often wondered why the men's version wasn't! The base of this is exquisite. Powerful but illusory and constantly shifting. The opening is almost like a more gourmand, less fresh and watery and more gourmand fig (like a fig biscuit) than the men's version. Flowing into a mature, floral smell of unsweetened, wild flowers, and even a slightly pissy, woods and aldehydes feel...but in a really good way! All this time though there's a really classy creamy woods backing the whole thing, like a blend of ho wood, rosewood, sandalwood and palo santo (minus the wierd rubber and mint) all conspiring to make the most lusciously opulent drydown but maintain the arid imagery. It's feminine for sure and has this sexy edge of straight out the bath, silk robes about it, mature but not old or stuffy. At this juncture I should perhaps point out that my mini is an early nineties example and I'm not sure what sort of reformulations it has endured since but I'm completely smitten. It's a little challenging in the mid section but hugely interesting to revisit and totally wearable for this nostalgic, 90's gentleman.

I've not tried the new reformulated Jules (why is it so expensive?) and my memories of the original have faded into obscurity so I got my hands on early 90's mini's of both the aftershave and EDT and I have to say they are SUPERB! I have a real penchant for this era, men's stuff and Jules is treating me to everything I love. Addictive, soapy, green leather and perfectly balanced aromats, a suggestion of powdery carnation, moss and twangy musk opening. These are all things you find elsewhere but with Dior there's a certain shine and sparkle to it. The drydown is smooth, clean and powerful, it's a delight and has it's own feel, separated from the Kouros's, Quorum's, Aramis's and Bijan's of the world by a not trying too hard to be too butch. I LOVE IT! Shame the vintage bottles are so pricey but this might have to be added to the list of wants. Lasts, forever and projects very well indeed without being intrusive.

What a treat! This fragrance is absolute magic. The opening is pure, fresh ginger, rough but juicy and coupled with citrus sweetness. Retreating to a smooth spicy bed of cardamom very quickly. The woods aren't particularly oud-like, more of low lying cedar to me. Cardamom looms large and it's something I like to use in my blends, but to get it to sit as comfortably as it does in this fragrance is no mean feat let me tell you. The 'vert' part does make you think it would be more green (I mean the caradmom is green) but that is somehow evoked in the bergamot and overall freshness, so even the name works well. I love it . It's discrete but somehow exudes quality and like it's been carefully considered. So the obvious gripes from folk with this are: 'where's the oud?' The character of this scent being so good could be attributed to that, But if you're after a big, blatant oud then this ain't it. It's like £300 or something? Well like I've said, FdB were not a brand that were made for me and I actually really have a problem with the whole 'Luxury' focus. However, if the perfumes were bad, I'd love nothing more than to slate them (I'm petty like that) for some emperor's new clothes shit...but they are sublime across the board and this is no different. Oh...saying something on the 'oud' element The fragrances from this brand (maybe with the exception of Santal Complet?) which don't have 'Oud' in the title are pretty nice but not at the level of the oud ones, regardless of whether they overtly smell of oud or not. My conclusion the oud must play a factor in the overall 'aura' of the scent, otherwise what would be the point?

What you expect from AdP is outstanding citrus opening and Sakura has that, with a watery, juicy, nearly green effect (I often associate with fig) but it's heavily perfumed with a dominant cherry blossom right from the get go, I actually didn't realise just how much so on first spritz, but then this is laden with fresh cherry blossom. Very nice just a bit femme and a little too 'norm' and reminscent of air fresheners for me. This speaks more to the skill and quality of air freshner formulation that it does about this being a poor fragrance because it isn't. There's Nothing wrong with a functional fragrance and the floral musk and jasmine sambac (which isn't particularly prominent) just add to what is a very pleasant and good quality, light, summer floral. I'm wearing it at the height of Autumn and it's bringing a little sunshine to an otherwise miserable day.

Finally...I hate being so broadly negative about a great brand which has captured the imagination of perfumistas and a perfumer that respect hugely for his commitment to quality and respect for materials. All incredibly admirable, so it's nice when I actually think the end product is excellently crafted and wearable perfume. I think I'm in a stage of liking soft 'pretty' things at present and Plumeria de Orris is the closest thing to pretty on the AlD agenda for this collection. I'm also a little ashamed that none of the heavier oud or leather fragrances were doing anything for me, because I seriously like that stuff, normally. I actually thought that premiering Orris as a material was a little 'French' or whatever for AlD and Adam but this is a delight! The opening has that exotic, fruity floral but it's tamed by a mildly vegetal odour for a brief time a Really powdery drydown giving a buttery, sweet leather facet of Orris root. It is floral throughout but doesn't have as characteristic frangipani as some of the Bortnikoff's for example, although I totally get how that material is in here. The clever part is that it's clearly driven by the same animal core that all of these have but it's not too apparent until it's well and truly dired down, like past 10-12 hours. This speaks to a deft touch by adam in using Castor and/or civet replacer in this because it does exactly what it should, mild background duties and twined with the orris and florals, gives a perfectly light but still animalic muskiness. I thought it was excellent.

Anyone who rode in a taxi pre mid 2000's could tell you that the drivers used to openly smoke cigarettes with you in the vehicle (SHOCKING NOW I KNOW!!!) I even shared a spliff with some of them sometimes. Anywho...reminiscing about those ashtrays on wheels, the ford Orion Ghia, furry dice and beaded seat covers, basically imagine the stale, musty odour in that vehicle, cigarettes and a million punters bums in various drunken states....well that is what War & Peace smells like. (I think Siberian Summer gave me that vibe too) Thank god for smoking bans, general standards and UBER because taxi's used to be fucking awful and if I hadn't of been a smoker myself at the time I likely would've been more bothered by them. This is an olfactively interesting endevour, the materials are clearly of great quality and contain interesting facets but overall, the perfume is a disappointment and I can't view it any other way. As thick, and long lived as the tome itself, War and Peace is an epic oud fragrance with a character like no other, but not really in a positive sense.Smells musty and old, not even barnyard or fecal just a bit stale. It's deeply faceted though and you can wallow in it's dark, dingy corridors finding odorous nuggets of interest if you're so inclined. W&P is very much of olfactory/historical interest, but has no place in my wardrobe. I don't really get much of the rose, it's muted and kinda dead, geraniol heavy rose (which I usually love) but perhaps in this instance a bit of jammy, sweetness would've been a welcome lift for what is a very dark, dusty affair. Atomically strong and long lasting but doesn't develop very much on me, although I'm somewhat charmed by it from a morbid fascination sense. Now... I only have a small quantity, purchasing the sample set and thankfully not blind buying Antiquity which I was considering doing. So I don't have a vast amount of wearing under my belt and perhaps this fragrance is one that needs to be worn several times to truly understand and if you want to dismiss my 'review' as a naive account from an unexperienced nose then that's cool, and I concede that you could indeed be right?

I perhaps hoped that this would take some of the floral approach found in Bortnikoff/Russian Adam's Amber Cologne...but no. Siberian Summer opens with a strangely fruity effect and brighter tones for sure giving a summery sense, but don't be fooled because soon enough you'll be hit pretty hard with the major themes. It's as if someone came along and poured, sharpness on to this fruity parade, almost that effect of balsamic vinegar on strawberries, it kinda works. I actually find the musk that develops slightly overbearing and pissy with the camphor and forest like accord at first, but does become more bearable and even somewhat likable. Then reverts back to being musty, with a metallic twang, I just can't stomach wearing it. Now I believe there's no deer musk in this and not to get too preachy because I can't talk (I've bought civet and such in the past) but I'm glad Adam is willing to explore other methods of producing animalic base effects, and to be fair the ones he's used it in this collection have been really well judged. Sometimes I will try a perfume that so obviously has a ton of civet replacer, not delicately woven into the tapestry of the scent but plonked in there, sinking right to the bottom and relentlessly bubbling away. Siberian summer is measured but is probably my least favourite. I honestly don't understand wanting to smell this way? It's a pass from me.

Without doubt this is a deep fragrance, but for all the aged materials and care and attention put into them, is the final result really all that great? I don't think so. Let me preface that comment by saying I was hugely anticipating this release, but maybe that expectation was unrealistic? I don't dislike the fragrance, the opening of Antiquity with those peachy aldehydes and a honied leather accord are really interesting and truly like nothing I've ever smelled before. In fact honey looms large and it smells that way for a good hour or two. There's no sparkle though, no energy in the blend, it feels flat and stale to me, not the arresting vintage perfume experience that was promised. The oud is prominent but actually very mild in terms of impact, and more woody than animal or resinous, perhaps the effects of being aged since the 70's? Don't get it twisted Antiquity is strong and lasts for days on skin. I don't get the carnation unfortunately, I was interested to see how that played a part. Now potentially, I don't know what I'm talking about and it's purely down to my tastes not being up to much & the fanfare and adoration of Areej le Dore will continue regardless, you're free to make up your own mind on that. Believe it or not, of the four this was my second favourite so it feels harsh to bash it, I don't want to do that either but I feel obliged to comment with my true feelings. I feel the care put into distilling and sourcing these materials is not necessarily being matched by the final product. I've tried several of the previous collections and they run the gamut from sublime to 'I don't get that AT ALL?' the main reason I don't get it is that 'quality' obsessed enthusiasts are willing to smell really quite muddled and funky for a piece of the exclusive luxury action.

I have an older mini of this (sort of?) which is apparently from the 60's but I'm not entirely sure? It's called Eau de Monseiur Balmain and it's absolutely stunning. The opening is a powdery lemon which could be considered confectionery like, sweet, perhaps a little sherbet lemon fizz and mine is undoubtedly old but the citruses are holding up fantastically well. There's green aspects of citrus, petitgrain and a warm underbelly, which still manages to be fresh and crucially not fougere, infact it's more EDC or Chypre territory. Then some of the most authentic oakmoss in the drydown, I mean an oakmoss lovers dream. Clearly this is a later release but the origins of this fragrance are in something truly lovely.