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Respectfully to the last post I have to disagree. It's not hard to dislike. After sampling the new and from memory, slightly butchered (certainly the bottle has been) version of Grain de Soleil this stuff immediately struck me as something with a bright, light opening. The blackcurrant, cassis note is sharp and smells pretty much like the cassis base used in many perfumes and often paired with rose. Here this smells like something that should be scenting a home in a reed diffuser or being sprayed from a budget aerosol can. I hate to be so reductive about a prestigious Grasse institution like Fragonard because I generally like everything I've ever tried but this didn't grab me. Does have a base and an interesting transition in the base, completely changing into a more recognisable and woody sort of perfume. (rather than air freshener) I don't want to hate on it because I found it weirdly impressive but not wearable for me.
Orange and oud. This is a strong opening of both and bergamot (which for me is essential in any citrus opening even if it's more orange centric) very interesting as I've been playing around with something similar myself, and did think that oud could really work. Whata ya know? Pasha has done it and it does. The animalic cheese of oud is shortlived in the opening but the orange/mandarin element sticks around while the resinous, woody nature comes out. Also there's an waxy orange blossom element, I'd be fascinated to know if he bolstered his Orange flower absolute with an orange blossom accord built from synthetics? It feels like that, again mirroring my own efforts. The drydown has a margainally chocolatey amber likley from the Benzoin which does have that vanilla/cacao nuance to it...again working with orange well. This is really nice and original, the elements not too complex but having their own level of inherent complexity keeping the whole thing intriguing throughout. God bless Oud.
Taking a step back from this one. I found the opening almost fougere green in a funny way. I'm not sure what is going on with this one? It's odd. More of the iris/orris dominance but it's very wet, and herbal. Strange as when you smell the headspace of this attar from the bottle (or sample vial in my case) it's incredibly sweet and amazingly lush, yet quickly on skin it's dry and unnerving to me. Not dissimilar to irisoir but enough for me to have a preference for that one.
Not usually a beewax fan (or honey really?) but I was converted by Slowdive last year. However I understand that honey and beeswax are changeable in the sense many materials are dependant on source, extraction...myriad factors! Anyway I'm always open to liking it and I've got to say that this is one of the finest examples of a honey/beeswax fragrance one could imagine. It's sublime! The honied opening is PERFECTLY judged and blended to absolute elite levels with rose saffron and the most complimentary partner for it...tobacco with it's inherent bitter and sweet undertones. Dries right down to a mellow not cloying, but sweet rich...woolly, comforting fragrance. Having said all this positive stuff about it...It's no Slowdive. This carries a middle eastern attar, sensibility with it (perhaps in the rose and saffron?) and just isn't modern enough for me to wear or justify purchasing. Really, really, really good though!
This is a wow! from me. Animalic but smooth oud dominance but with traces of roses and opulent musk. The oud character itself carries the whole thing starting with a mild cambodian cheese or real civet smell opening instantly diffusing into dark woody resinous tones. Al Hareem is mainly oud to my nose but the rose does develop as it dries down, never quite going what you'd call 'sweet' though. As someone who has a few oud attars this is familiar, powerful but no where near the most animalic or potent oud you will smell. This is clearly of great quality (not sure if all Pasha's oud comes from Ensar?) and when you are in the mood for it, just perfection. Superb.
Stunning! (at first) This is an unlikely favourite in the shape of a sort of gourmand attar, very sweet opening of citruses and jelly sweets with, boozy incense and then woods. It's a dizzying and rich composition, I have to say that I love the opening more than when it's settled, but it does become more rounded, grown up, less sweet. Harder to describe notes and categorise. I like it though.
This is an impressive attar no doubt, but the combination of massive tuberose and vetiver is complimentary but opens borderline unpleasant to me as it's SO waxy and thick and with the earth of vetiver it comes over a bit like a more floral vetiver dance Andy Tauer. There's a weird chamomile type note maybe coming from the vetiver?Interesting to note the quality and amount of ambergris in this composition. Tuberose materials are quite varied from the limited experience I have, for example a from Effleurage material has completely changed how I think about tuberose, and the same is true of vetiver it's not all about big smokey Java and Haitian stuff. The waxy, handcream effect is curbed as it develops though but it's still a bit relentless for me, white floral and vetiver lovers alike will likely be bowled over by this fragrance, it's superb, just not my bag.
Opens up bright and cheery with a jam like sweetness and they some more decayed, geraniol rose giving a nice combination of sweet and dry/herbal. In all honesty the composition is dominated by rose (to begin with) and the only support I perceive is the mild sweetness of honey as it opens and a gentle breath of ambergris and oud when dried down. Don't get me wrong all this conspires to create enough complexity in a rose absolute perfume which has plenty in an of itself, but it doesn't speak to me as much as some. I think the fact that ambergris is identifiable in the dry down is interesting. It's great but not life changing.
I get a kind of cacao, chocolatey note in the opening and the support of heliotrope adding to the sickly sweet sensation, perfectly juxtaposed with earthy touches. It does have the sensation of classical iris/orris very rich but mildly herbal not that I've tried Iris Gris but this smells antiquated (in a good way) Nice blend, one of the more subdued attars in the collection, opening bold then mellowing considerably and with so much else to love it doesn't stand out but that's not to say it isn't brilliant because it clearly is.
As far as authentic myrrh fragrances go, this is pretty good and it's rare to get something showcasing the more off kilter, dry, medicinal side of resins, fitting with the ancient theme of the brand very well I thought. The opening is a bold spice statement from cinnamon but it's nicely tempered into an 'accord' of sorts with a nutmeg note, smelling predominantly of neither, which is a good balance. It's a little chaotic though, disjointed and very 'Indy' like (I mean what else do I expect from an indy?) I didn't have expectations of Peter being Thierry Wasser on his first foray, but let's face it, the guy has talked a big game on his youtube channel and anything less than life changing brilliance is sure to be a disappointment. Dendera is good, don't get me wrong, the way it settles to this opoponax/myrrh orris smell is pleasurable wear, the spicy opening is nicely transient (about 30 mins of top notes) and flows into that main body of the fragrance. I don't really detect the oud overtly (which was another surprise) but I've no doubt it's holding all this other stuff together. The first time I applied it as well as the spicy top I found a sharp, sappy wood/resin(like atlas cedar or olibanum), almost camphorous note but upon the second application it was replaced by more of an outright myrrh from the get go. (that's why you should always sample multiple times if you can) There's lots to like here but something about it doesn't quite hang together and it didn't speak to me personally in the way that I had hoped. It behaves like a 'proper' perfume there's clearly top, middle and base notes and it lasts very well. Worth a sniff but didn't grab me.