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There is something of the Hotel about this, namely a soapy texture and clean towel vibe...it's very bathroom anyway. The opening is a mixture of a slightly powdery, talc like geranium and lavender with citrus. The fruit is sharp and jarring against this backdrop at first and almost fools you into thinking this might just be a fleeting citrus scent. Well the citrus is fleeting but Amorvero Uomo then develops into a tediously, clean well blended Fougere. Nothing stands up to be counted note wise and you're left with something nice but not even as classy as some similar niche classics. I don't doubt there's all these notes in there but they just seem to constitute a pleasant amalgam, not offensive just not that great unfortunately. This is something for the true gent who doesn't want to stand out or really let people know he's wearing fragrance, just smells uber clean. Update: Well I never the drydown was totally unexpected a deep musky scent which is a superb finish to what I had considered a bit of a lost cause. Just goes to show it's not all over until the drydown. Musky, warm and although totally inconceivable earlier, a pronounced and fairly robust tobacco note. A surprise finish then, maybe a touch of too little too late but it definitely makes this scent more than your average fougere and more meets the eye, worth checking out!
Anyone else smell beer? It's like a malty, hoppy, fermenting real ale to me. I don't know if this 'sucre' or sugar has turned into alcohol, because that's what I get from this fragrance. As it dries down it becomes a heavy benzoin accented fragrance with a base of wood and some real sweetness now. It's a gourmand which masquerades as a foamy pint for a while then boy does it get yummy...? In fact...Sucre d'Ebene is pretty gorgeous when dried down. The opening is a bit strange though, it's like any fragrance with a wheaty note (Serge Lutens Jeux de peau) it takes time to get used to. Sits very close to the skin but smells very sexy.
Opens with an odd incense accord of spiced resin and something like firey ginger beer...seriously! That fades quickly mind you and hints of the tea and liquorice are there, I had to re apply to be sure as I didn't get anything to begin with. The main element which sweetens up the whole composition (too much so perhaps?) is Vanilla which takes any rough edge off that the myrrh might of possessed in the drydown. I think this effect leaves you with a vague, ambery, approximation of resin...I mean it smells like myrrh but more focused on the antiseptic quality with non of the sweet sharpness. I've tried several 'cold' myrrh fragrances recently which have real metallic and tea notes which are complementary this however is very warm and cosy for me. I'm not mad at it but it's not the best thing I've smelled from this house. To be fair this is a house I was expecting big things from and perhaps something more unusual. That vanilla sits close but lasts...and although pleasant enough, not one for real Myrrh lovers IMO. Update: Actually the drydown is pretty nice and longlasting, I found it much better when it settled down a soft amber/vanilla which is slightly dry and dusty.
This is some dark perfumery here. Just starting with the name it evokes a coven of witches in a damp Forrest stirring up witchcraft and of course...their cauldron. It's the fithiest of filthy soil tinctures and moss, which goes far beyond normal acceptability and actually into a realm I find interesting. It's a further place where fragrance goes and runs the full gamete from horrid all the way back to exquisite. Patchouli lovers with like this because it's dank and soily but green and grassy almost figgy in the top notes. As it dries down there's a slight wet wood and a little peppery spice in there too. Great longevity on me...doesn't project all that much which is probably a good thing as it's not exactly a crowd pleaser. Bizarre stuff but not all that unpleasant...still wouldn't wear it though...maybe on Halloween?
This fragrance is special. Somehow captures all that sicilian juicy, fruitiness a lemon which is not at all sharp but superbly realistic. It has the cooling effect of a summer breeze lightly spiced with cardamom and somehow a touch of those wild flowers. Green tea is a perfect companion for this light, perfect scent...reminds me of Iced tea and Lemon. I'm head over heels for Carthusia Mediteraneo just the remedy for hot weather. I've smelled a few citruses which have made me rethink this entire olfactive group recently but this one is a real achievement. The longevity is not great and it doesn't have any surprises underneath in terms of base notes and as such, is pretty linear affair. Not so good...but I still kinda wanna add it to my collection, it's that good.
All these fresh wonderful and beautiful things in one fragrance. The opening IS a Mojito the greenest freshest leafy mint note and accurate lime citrus I've smelled. It also goes a little figgy for a second then the juniper freshness, settling to a straighter more herby vibe...which to me is tea. The heart of this fragrance smells like black tea, elemi with clean earthy vetiver and prehaps some cedar. I love it! I think sometimes they get the names of fragrances muddled because yet again Comme des Garsons have made a scent which truly is Amazingly green. Oh well I suppose this is called 'Green' to be fair. The drydown is different again it's oddly sweet the elemi possibly coming out again? It has this meditative incense kinda thing of CDG and a little of the Amazinggreen about it too. Major let down is the longevity...few hours at best and despite good initial projection it fades quickly. Can't fault the smell though it's excellent, sparkling and refreshing juice with a touch of earthy edge to it.
I'd describe Takis as a creamy/herby/floral scent which is dominated in the opening by one note...Vanilla. It's that combination with a strong white musk and herbs, thyme and sage which make that sickly and vaguely reminiscent combo of lavender/musk/vanilla from things like JPG Le Male or MDCI Invasion Barbare. The top notes are an unmistakable ylang ylang which can be divine or awful dependent on composition and luckily in this case its okay. For something so creamy and vanilla like it dies a quick death on my skin, which is not that disappointing because I'm not fully on board with this sort of scent anyway. It's a well blended piece which doesn't offend me but doesn't ignite a spark in me either. If I had the option I'd get Histoires 1725 or Invasion barbare instead.
Got my girlfriend to test my note knowledge with this one and I impressed her when she picked it out of a bag of samples I was yet to try. To be fair this was a really easy test as the scent was pretty clear to me. I really enjoy the yesty opening right away I identified the juicy sharp bergamot and then petitgrain. The base is a slightly herbal mixture of a very subtle patchouli and a more pronounced moss. At first I didn't get the mint but it's there as it settles down. Classic, elegant fragrance reminds me of something my dad would've worn. Mediocre longevity but all in all a good fragrance.
An attack of white florals which is so potent in the opening it comes across almost animal like a feral musk! Waxy, orange blossom, ylang ylang and sweeter jasmine are dominant in the beginning then becoming a more powdered geranium type vibe. There is the tiniest hint of clove in there too. The scent for women who enjoy this traditional floral fare and not for this man to wear at all. The saving grace here is the jasmine in the top notes otherwise I really wouldn't like Gelsomini di Capri.
Wow! Pretty amazing jasmine dominant perfume, but I found it came off incredibly masculine (whatever you make of me saying that?) on me and immediately reminded me of more 'men's' florals like geranium or carnation (just to note if definitely doesn't smell of either of those) but this is an unapologetically flouncy, Erol Flynn blouse of a floral. It's quite Italian too in that it has that fresh, amalfi coast citrus sort of thing and a general attitude to it. (Helpful I know!) I didn't find it very stinky or indolic but I've had 100% negative anti-compliments so yeah, not popular in the workplace, but fuck um! What's very curious is that it's lush, green banana and hefty and quite tamed and beautiful jasmine accord is then tinged after several hours with a fizzy orange powder, not all the way orange blossom but definitely complimenting the jasmine and ylang. I mean to say this is not my usual jam is an understatement but I happen to have really enjoyed it today. A solid perfume from a super old sample I found. Update (from yesterday) I mentioned that it wasn't indolic, clearly a good jasmine accord (which I consider this to be) will be somewhat indolic, but what I meant was that I only get the sweet, heady flowery effect with little skank. Well fast forward to today and the remnant on my clothes tells a slightly different story, there's a dirty, poopy, indole nestled among what is still a pretty nice exotic floral smell. Just to note that after about 18 hours or something, smelling that relentlessly of jasmine had started to take it's toll, and this perfume is not what I'd consider the most full blooded floral I've ever worn, but it's hefty enough, nevertheless.
I love leather fragrances and the smell you get in most is an approximation of 'real' leather. Things like clive christian C (which I adore BTW) and Tom Ford Tuscan leather have an aggressive accord which smells very sharp. Some which have a very animal or woody nature coupled with oud like Dior Leather Oud and Cuir d'arabie but Cuir de Nacre is entirely different. There's yet another type which seem to be heavy in patchouli and earthy tincture coupled with the leather to create a 'dirty' feel. This one is vaguely reminiscent of YSL's Noble leather in that it's lighter and more powdery but still the YSL leans more toward the Tuscan leather end of the spectrum. Cuir de Nacre is an absolute triumph, such an true leather exuding from the top notes of this fragrance. A wonderfully accurate, soft, buttery leather note which evokes shoe shops, handbags and wallets. The mention of handbags includes the contents BTW lipstick and powdery make up vibes which to my taste never once lean too far into the realms of an 'older' lady type vibe. It's not aggressive enough for that the balance of iris, styrax, musk and cassis is perfect and as it dries down becomes less leathery and more powdery. This has a classy finesse to it and just smells really nice...If that leather lasted, was a bit stonger and less powdered I would hail this as the best leather I'd ever smelled. Longevity is okay but soft and retreats nicely which adds to the less intrusive feel overall.