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Yeah can't really add much to the reviews here other than Yuquawam is far less annoyingly in your face than other TL dopplegangers like Golden boy. I can definitely tell the difference between this and Tuscan leather too, Yuqawam is sweeter, certainly in the opening and has a far more pronounced raspberry note. It's rich and opulent and all the lovely things this sort of fragrance is but without as much of the dirt. This is what we want though, 'Leather' isn't it? TL has it and I would argue Clive Christian C has even more. The saving grace of Yuquawam is that it's inherently more wearable everyday than a TL or CcC because to me at least it has less of the special occasion about it. Really good again from Rasasi, I'll be wearing mine for sure.
Few perfumes hit you this hard with petitgrain in the opening, fizzy and citrus like but lacking in any sort of yesty refreshment. As Mister Marvelous settles down a bit it does get slightly pissy I'm afraid, but hey I can deal with that as I sort of find it interesting when it's not too dominant. I think the neroli coming through gives it a saving lift but the base is a peppery cedar which again doesn't help with the overall vibe of this perfume. Not something I'd wear I'm afraid, Byredo aren't doing particularly well in my favour being a house I hadn't tried until now. I don't hate it but put it this way, we can't talk longevity I'm afraid, because it got scrubbed.
Opens with almost cream soda like playful vanilla which soon dissipates to reveal a throbbing Amber core. The sweetness retreats too which is welcome and it becomes much more dusty, and woody after a sweet couple of hours. There could even be a hint of patchouli earthying up the drydown but make no mistake this is an amber dominant fragrance of the highest quality and lasting power. Really, really good stuff for Orlov and I only applied a tiny amount and it lasted for hours. I rate flame of Gold but does it have enough to set it apart from other high quality ambers? That's for you to decide....I'm saying it's worth a sniff and was a pleasure to wear for me.
Just to say I think the reviewer below was smelling something different to me, I get no rose or patchouli in here? I'm a fan of Ambroxan for the record, although obvious and seemingly flavour of the month at the moment, it's a versatile base for fragrances to go in any direction. It can be clean and masculine, the base for a citrus/aquatic (as it is here) or even warming, underneath more oriental notes. I'm also a fan of ELDO because of the quirk they seem to get into most of their creations, but in all honesty, this is less unique. Herman opens with a big clean fruity/floral vibe and a generic aquatic type feel. It's kinda exaggerated in the opening which is obviously what the house were going for but I'm afraid after that it's a little flat, fading back to a nice fresh skin scent. Personally I like it, My girlfriend liked it too, commenting that it's something she would wear, rather than me and I think she's right there. It seems to last okay but very low in the mix, which after quite a loud and pronounced opening, seems disappointing but perhaps isn't? The thing with ELDO fragrances is that there's always a jarring note or a twist in the tale and unfortunately, I was waiting and it just didn't come. I'm still somehow satisfied with Herman...in it's rawest essence I like the smell...simple.
I can only imagine it must be the 'Fig tree' note in here which makes Sandalo Nobile open so much like a fresh wonderful fruity smell, I can literally feel the fibrous innards as the juicy flesh is torn open. I think it's the most accurate and beautiful fig note I've ever smelled, it's also reminiscent of a real plum, not the jammy sweetness we think of as 'plum like' in perfumery, plum Japonais or CdG Floriental etc...this is a genuine green smell, more like that of Philosykos. Then proceedings start to get powdery, a lovely Iris note backed with creamy sandalwood but hints of the fig in there too. I think this fragrance has wonderfully complimentary ingredients but something doesn't quite ring true about it for me? I'm not sure if I think it's a bit too feminine for me or that it's just too clean, there's not enough dirt in here for my liking? Still a great fragrance if not just for that opening...not something I'd wear but totally worth checking out for sure. Update: 23/01/23 It's interesting when I look back on reviews like this, it's usually to say that I was wrong for being so down on a fragrance, but in this instance I'd say I don't really have the same enthusiasm I clearly had back in the mists of 2016. I still like the opening but it's kinda more of the coconut facet of fig leaf that I get rather than the lush greenery of fig flesh now. The body is a musky, creamy sandalwood which is very pleasant clearly well crafted but does little to excite me. So, My feelings have ended up being largely similar.
Comparisons to Jubilation XXV (I've seen a couple below) are unfounded really, other than Londinium containing notes of berries and resin. The truer comparison came to me pretty much instantly. Despite thinking I have a fairly vast knowledge of fragrances now I often go completely blank when I try things in store. What usually happens is that I know a scent smells familiar but can't place it right away. Londinium however was instant...'squirt'...."Spicebomb?...No...Gucci PHII!" That's it folks Londinium is a sparkling thick, berry like, sweet spiced opening but with all the metallic tea and everything from PHII but definitely hyped up. Londinium is more boozy and not as musky and aloof as the Gucci but no where near as blatant and sledgehammer like as Spicebomb, It's a really good balance. However, the fact that I own both of the comparison scents is slightly off putting but that's not to say Londinium doesn't have it's own unique charms and allure because it definitely does. Lasting power was average to pretty good and the fruity top notes stayed strong for several hours which is a big plus.
EOh snap!!! I'm in love big time with this fragrance. I always foolishly overlook Molton Brown as a 'serious' fragrance contender but this is incredible stuff. As soon as I smelled the stunning opening I was like "Wow! Oud!" Not what I was expecting at the price point, until I realised this one is more pricey than the others in this range and it makes sense too, the quality is evident immediately. Yeah anyway is a kind of spice bizarre of Oud, sandalwood, with saffron coming on stronger and stronger as it settles, heady almost plasticky, earthiness The saffron is almost too much even for me and it's one of my favourite ingredients. Seriously the balance in Shisur is just right making it potent and smooth at the same time. I've smelled a few fragrances similar to this before but nothing quite the same, I'm a total sucker for Oud and saffron, then sandalwood and spices, put them all together and basically I'm happy, certainly in this context the Oud & Saffron smells quite different to even one of my big favourites MFK Oud. Superb Molton Brown! Well done and no doubt I will have to get this fragrance it is immense!!! I don't even have to wait for it to drydown to know it will take me on a journey of hedonistic, woody pleasure. Take me now Shisur I'm all yours! Update: as predicted the saffron smooths out and gets silkier, the Oud and sandalwood create a warm, sweet, humming bed of loveliness. I think I'm going to get this. It isn't cheap £95 for 50mls but I'm enjoying it so much I don't think I can pass it up? Longevity is good but it's a very subtle skin scent, but I'm more than happy with the performance. The testers I tried had some really poor sprayers but the actual bottle is nice looking and the TDH style twisting lock sprayer is an innovative and nice touch (providing you get one that functions correctly!) from Molton Brown adding value to what is quality scent already but perhaps needs that perception of quality to achieve such a price. Although having said that the rest of the line are in these bottles and some are only £65...anyway nevermind.
Not much to say about this one, except for that it's a very nice vetiver. Simple, incredibly smooth and palatable, perfect scent for summer with the fresh uplifting hint of citrus & greens in the opening giving way to a truly clean vetiver. There's a dash of earth in there too from some moss, Monotheme don't disappoint, producing yet again, a really decent fragrance. There's actually been a packaging change which usually means a reformulation, I actually got the opportunity to try both versions and I have to say they are both really nice. One lasted longer than the other, unfortunately I got my arms mixed up and I don't know which one was which? The older formula (bottle & box pictured here) or the newer version. (dark green bottle) Lasting power is a problem across the board for Monotheme but they are so well priced and great smelling that I really don't care if they only last a couple of hours. I know some pricier vetivers that are nice from Jo Malone or Diptyque that don't last either, so why not get this instead? If you like vetiver I'd check out Vetiver Bourbon, it isn't quite up there with Guerlain or Tom Ford but a worthy purchase for sure.
Okay...So I get the 'smells like Raghba' or '24 Gold' but that is but a tiny part of the story. I cannot understand the criticism waged against this great fragrance? The opening is a smokey, dense guaic wood and creamy sandalwood which doesn't quit, it's peppered and spicy. This scent to me comes off as more of an incense based thing than anything else. Sure there's that sugar sweet Arabic tone to the whole composition but all in all much less cloying than the original Raghba or indeed 24 Gold. Intense wood actually delivers more promise of woodiness than 24 Gold Oud edition did and I was even pleased with that one. I'm so glad I didn't get the original Raghba (although very nice) as I felt I had that base well and truly covered with the Scent Story fragrances I own. Intense wood on the other hand is a valued fragrance in my arsenal. Last well on my skin and there's enough of everything else going on to counter the cloying sweetness...at this price you can't complain, it's a real winner this juice.
I took a huge punt on Tobacco blaze considering it's fairly pricey but still cheap for the quality compared to say...Tom Ford. Oh while we are on the subject I decided to get this Yuqawam as apposed to the much talked about on here Tuscan Leather one, because I wanted to be surprised by the smell and despite reading reviews beforehand, Tobacco Blaze has certainly done that! I honestly can't say I'm convinced by this yet but what it has delivered is a interesting but not totally unique experience. The opening is a dark, ashy sort of affair which is dry and unpleasant like a burnt tobacco. Lingering only a molecule or two underneath this vail of ash is a poofy, lighthearted fruit affair which opens like passion fruit and soon dries to an unmistakable creamy apricot yogurt smell. This is all well and good but then Tobacco blaze starts to get more powdery leather with floral hints just peeping through. The ash like, spiced wood smell reminds me of ELDO Jasmine et cigarette and a patchouli dry note (which reminds me of that rough, recycled type paper you got in primary school...was it called sugar paper?) with the apricot note persisting throughout. My main complaint with this fragrance is...Did smokey and apricots every have to meet? Really? The jury is still deliberating, overall I'm happy with the purchase because It's a talking point of a fragrance and part of a family of scents I like very much. Everything said Tobacco blaze is a success of a blind buy and performance & silage are very good, the presentation is fantastic. I've got a feeling this one will grow on me.