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Having worn this entire line a couple of times now I have to say that I've quite smitten with the easy going charm, exuded by each one of these fragrances. Berlin was the first I wore properly on skin and it didn't disappoint. Uplifting and fresh Berlin is a mixed bag of bitter citrus and tangerine qualities, with the longer lasting citrus of petitgrain. The heart of Berlin is a tea note which complements the bright opening and with vetiver backing it up adds a hint of dry smoke...but not much. It settles very smooth and considering tea and citrus can have sharp metallic qualities it's a mellow fragrance. Perhaps a little to mellow? No I can't fault it, Berlin lasted okay and really woke me up, energising my Monday morning. I like it.
Very low lying, ultra transparent fragrance which had a synthetic feel to it. The vanilla and orris/iris sits so close to the skin the fresh notes barely pop, it's another super minimal fragrance that repeats the EDC mantra of barely existent longevity and projection. That's not what fragrance is all about though and I have images of some lady in a silk nightgown, pampering herself, perhaps waiting for a lover to arrive? and if you are close enough to snuggle, barely gives off a perfumed smell, but just sort of enhances her own soft, skin smell. (there's a reason why I don't use this sort of narrative in my reviews or have a career as an author of erotic fiction!;) I need to wear properly because I forgot it already, maybe that speaks volumes?
Eau de cologne type vibes, citrus, mild neroli backdrop and not much of a base to speak of. Lovely smell and if you love it good look to you. I was left a little cold, maybe if I wore it properly I'd change my mind but I don't think so.
I've got to say that this was the most memorable of the three in my opinion. There's really not a great deal to say, such is the chic minimalism of this perfume. Polge lent some of this craft to a line I tried recently, Mugler Les Exceptions which seem bold and brash now in comparison to these. It's a green opening with fresh lime and mandarin notes as it dries you get a delicate powder soft floral heart and base of the sweetest patchouli. It's not reinventing anything and might be functional for some....but not at what I suspect the price might be. I was distinctly underwhelmed by the line.
Lignum Vitae is bizarre and exceptional in equal measure, but not the usual kind of signature strangeness I've come to expect from this brand. Lignum Vitae is 'Beaufort does gourmand' and the last thing I was expecting to smell was a lemon Madeira cake, but that's exactly what I got from it. Such an accurate accord but with a salty, ozonic blast at the start and some leafy herbal business too, but then a clever, syrupy, lemon drizzle of citrus and that cakey, caramelised vanilla accord growing. I was very impressed when I read the notes and saw 'Madeira cake accord' among the list...I mean how specific? and my missus and I had already remarked that this smelled like that. What I like is that this perfume isn't a one trick pony because once you've digested your cake, you get more of that salty aquatic thing reminiscent of the finish from Tonnare a fragrance which hints at it all the way through but until the smoke clears you don't appreciate the full effect of. I get some of that savoury, herbal stuff as well almost as if the cake were make with olive oil? Lignum Vitae is challenging in a good way and nice to see the brand diversify from the smokey/leathery territory to something equally as eccentric.
I’m shocked and stunned that I like this fragrance so much. To me it’s a big bold balsamic fragrance that goes on almost as if the resin was never diluted into liquid, such is the density. Very sweet and I mainly got the jasmine on top, giving it a more feminine lean as do the other two in the line. The shocking thing for me is just how prominent the honey note is and it’s not some meek honey either, it’s fully fledged but coupled with the cinnamon spiced tolu balm, hint of vanilla and florals it balances out very nicely indeed. The honey mellows and the whole thing just becomes a cuddly warm hug of a fragrance with undeniable quality. I love it. Reminded me of old style Thierry Mugler (rather than Mugler) but somewhat safer and also Parfums de Marly Oajan but only a fleeting glance of similarity. I thought this would be monsterous performance wise because it goes on heavy and projects a cloud around it, but it’s more modest. Don’t get me wrong it lasts quite well and I think will require another wear.
Oh dear.... Oh dear oh dear.... The boundary testing olfactory experiment that is Beaufort has just stepped into territory I don't like at all. Having tried Tonnare first and loving the wet stone/gunpowder into, very smokey notes and dryness then a lasting fresh citrus and ozonic, seabreeze accord that was simply stunning...to this, it's been a long journey. Some inbetween teetered with upsetting me this one just spilled out into proper weird. It reminds me a little of a friend of mine who's personal hygiene leaves somewhat to be desired. There's an animal, sweaty, dirty, unwashed hair/beard, denim jacket (complete with metal band patches) slightly alcohol, cannabis smoke and bong water sauteed feel to rake and ruin. Now... I placed the image in my partners mind when I said do you think this smells like....%$^$"%&^??? and she was was like OMG YES!!! but still impressive. Anyway, Is this unique...absolutely, I've never smelled anything like it...It's woody and has the element of pine or spruce, I get even a meditative quality of incense. The bbq rib sauce and bomfire smoke looms large and coupled with those animal qualities (which I'm adverse to btw) which in this setting and composition are pretty unbearable. The opening goes give that lovely gunpowder, slightly metallic smoke quality somewhat of a Beaufort signature, it's just a nuts fragrance. I don't even think the composition is messy, it's deliberate focused and has real purpose to me. I wish I liked it, loved it even...but I can't get over the fact that it's a bad smell. Infinitely complex and an incredible feat of olfactory innovation...but still it's a bad smell. An olfactory piece of art but unwearable. I could probably replicate the effect by going on a three month bender and never showering or changing my clothes, sleeping next to a burning tyre yard, maybe imbibing some of the ingredients said to be in here? Sorry Beaufort you are generally a brand I love...this is just a stretch too far for me personally, good luck to those who love it and wear it. UPDATE: Okay so my thoughts haven't changed on this one but I'm interested to note that Ambrome is now being quoted as a note on Fragrantica and it's a material included in Rake & Ruin. I have some Ambrome and it's the strangest material, smelling as it does, somewhat similar to labdanum absolute. Great right? Nope! It's actually soured my appreciation for labdanum and perhaps used in Minuit quantities might be really effective but the raw stuff or if you put too much in....Jesus it's awful! Maybe that's a contributing factor to why I hate this so much? In any case although I didn't smell it (I would've definitely mentioned it in my review) it doesn't surprise me to see it in here.
The opening of this fragrance is incredibly icky and sweet with a tuberose that has that bubblegum quality you can sometimes get. I didn't notice the rhubarb in truth but that could've been conspiring to create that pink hubba bubba opening? 611 becomes heavily exotic and heady with what I perceive as ylang ylang, but could just be the tuberose mellowing out. Also adding to this I got a almost boozy tonka/caramel base underneath but this is likely the sweet benzoin/vanilla and you do get a touch of licorice too. It's interesting reading the notes now and comparing to what I thought they might've been. Anyway...this fragrance does transition a long way staying quite floral but then drying down to basically a vanilla sweet benzoin which is probably my favourite part. At first I thought it was clumsy, flouncy, perfumery and overly ballsy in a Mugler kind of way. This perfume reminded me of the trend of this and the mini resurgence of late with everyone and their dog banging on about Byron Mula Mula with which this has some similarities. Opening hour or two was a bit rough going but then as it developed I really liked it, I'd say it's more feminine leaning for me.
Straight forward scent this one. A fragrance which is somewhat green, but with a lightly powdery, floral citrus opening. Then becoming more and more of a clean, soapy accord with and unmistakable chamomile note. I'll be honest I didn't think much of it, I'm not sure what this perfume costs (just looked it's £135 for 100ml) so actually not extortionate and I suppose if you like the freshness of it then fine, but it's not my bag at all.
This is a stunning fragrance! Just when you think you're a real connoisseur of rose and have had every conceivable supporting note in every composition that would be rose dominant but still have original elements and most importantly....work. You're hit with something else. I always avoid rose fragrances that are said to be aimed at females thinking I won't enjoy them...foolish. Anyway the fact there's two roses listed is very curious because that's how it comes off...a purple, red jammy rose and a lighter, brighter, cleaner fresher rose. Turkish and Bulgarian harmony for you. The background of patchouli giving heft and sweetness rather than raw earth, the sandalwood and vanilla/amber is not particularly creamy or distinct but something about the sum of these parts make a stunning perfume. Really this is an absolute knockout and I'm so glad, coming from left field because I'm not looking for a rose perfume but I think one might have found me.