Signature, from Ruth Mastenbroek was released in 2010. The perfumer behind this creation is Ruth Mastenbroek. It has the top notes of Bergamot, Black Currant, Mandarin Orange, Pineapple, and Pink Pepper, middle notes of Jasmine, Lily, and Rose, and base notes of Oakmoss, Patchouli, and Sandalwood.
So I’ve smelled Ruth’s creations for other brands and I was intrigued to see what her own brand would be like and boy oh boy is this line special. I’ve only tried three so far but they are all show stoppers! Massively rich and complex compositions, not elegant or singular focused stuff you might create for a brand (a rose one, a leather one etc etc..) with a brief but rather truly artistic, statement pieces to showcase what an excellent perfumer Ruth clearly is. Signature to me opens with a saffron like twang, heavy, heady but strangely plastic and elastic, spiked with exotic fruits and cassis. It actually smells quite sharp and resinous like artificial Oud base, but nothing specific like ahhh that’s black agar or Firmenich, Oud bois or whatever. This is perhaps just materials conspiring to make something very complex, which is basically what a synthetic ‘Oud’ base or accord consists of. Broadly masculine I’d say and it’s initial strength and boldness is very captivating and I’d suggest highly appealing to folks who like modern fragrances that bang hard particularly in the opening. Something about this line reminds me of the brilliant Christophe Laudamiel and his work with Strangelove, perhaps these are less obviously built on amazing natural raw materials, but something about the feel and complexity is similar. A massive endorsement.