Under My Skin 是弗朗西斯卡对动物性主题的诠释,但出人意料的是,在我的嗅觉中,这似乎并不是她最动物性的香水;不过,从名字中可以看出,这款香水的核心是一种更微妙的人性,而不是明显的动物性。这真是一种美。在我看来,这几乎是一款东方皮革香水--正如比安奇作品中常见的那样,皮革和鸢尾是香水的主要成分,15% 的鸢尾酮为皮革带来了压倒性的干燥、黄油、粉状和略带泥土气息的效果,而托鲁和秘鲁香脂的搭配又为皮革增添了浓郁的香气。麝香、蓖麻油和龙涎香构成了完美的麝香三重奏,但又不至于失礼,因为它与香料和薰衣草达到了完美的平衡。这是一款大胆的香水,散发着力量和自信,感觉不像她的其他一些作品那么亲密或感性,但从某种意义上说,它让人耳目一新。我非常喜欢这款香水,粉状皮革和香料的结合堪称完美。
Slightly fishy, mimosa skank-fest. It's wondeful but I can't imagine wearing it. The Lover's Tale is the limit for me with the Bianchi animalic fug. I'm glad to have a decent to wear to bed though.
So this has been a long time coming, I'd heard massively positive things about Francesca's work and was slow to get samples, for some strange reason? Anyway I started with Under my skin as this appeared to be the one with the most reviews and one that people seemed to be feeling earth-moving, epoch shattering connections with. Well I have to say I didn't feel all that connected to Under my skin at first. The quality materials and swathes of heavy, animal tinged spices explode out of the bottle at you. I love cumin and this has that sweaty, animalic, civet replacement dose but frankly it felt a little clumsy and kinda all over the place in the opening. I had the same thoughts as Bengale Rouge recently... Was this really the scent that was compared to vintage Guerlain's and the like? Because at the moment it feels distinctly Indy like. However, similar to Bengale Rouge it's an ugly ducking that becomes the proverbial swan and the drydown soars majestically. It gets progressively, sweeter, muskier and everything tightens up or loosens off? (one of them?) a bit like the skin or epidermal layer this is apparently under? Well, not apparently, it is under, and after two hours all the chaotic 'offness' had gone and it was under mine for sure. The soft, spicy, animalic undertones are just like warm, slightly dirty fur. The spicy cinnamon facets, lending a kind of tolu balm sense of subtly and a sweet musky nature throughout, balances perfectly now, and all is calm and right with the world. I learned the lesson a long time ago that some (especially indy and largely natural) fragrances have to go through some exceptionally potent (to the point of unpleasantness) phases to reach the place they really want to be...which is dried down and working with our skin, which is exactly where this perfume is at home....On skin....or under in? whatever?!?!? I will wear it properly to determine my thoughts further but it's a real heavy hitter and projected strongly as well as being super tenacious.
Under My Skin "是从阴影中提取麝香;这是一个令人身临其境的催眠之门,你会感觉自己慢慢滑入一个无光的水池深处,散发着皮革、檀香和鸢尾花的香味,而且--这可能只是我大脑对香水名称和同名电影的联想--它是对《Under the Skin》中阴森恐怖的极简主义弦乐的嗅觉诠释,为外星诱惑者引诱和捕获猎物的方法增添了恐惧和神秘。