fragrances
reviews
71 reviews
Phoenix Flame extrait de parfum has been my most worn perfume since its release back in November and I find it a thoroughly enjoyable experience, particularly at this time of year! Firstly, as the name would suggest, you should expect PF to be smoky (it's representative of renewal). And it really is. It’s not an in-your-face choke-you-out smoke. There are however several curls of sultry black soot rising from my forearms right now. I jest, but it is smoky. Secondly, there is a magical, magnetic natural oud which feels woody and a touch medicinal. Of course the oud % has been measured quite deftly, but it’s there and it’s gorgeous. PF is also incensey. Not main accord incensey, nothing much in this perfume is. The resins here, frankincense and myrrh (work beautifully with the amber accord and the spices of cardamom and cinnamon to provide the heat of the phoenix rising from these smoky ashes. And then there’s the sumac which really grows into the drydown. Tangy and deep with a hint of earthy sweetness and floral citrus notes, it counterbalances the rest of the very warming notes and provides something delightful and unique. Phoenix Flame is an amazing perfume and one that has clearly been developed and developed over a long period, something rare that always pays dividends. This is proper perfume created by a hugely talented artist and I’d highly recommend you all check it out.
Exquisite Oud, benzoin and vanilla makes for a big balsamic if rather simple ambery beauty. And let’s please get the perfumer correct. So many referencing JC, however this is by the masterful Sophie Labbé!!
This is beautiful. A fruity opening mellows down into toasty coconut, moss and tobacco, over a leathery amber base.
Painter is stunning, gorgeous, and I absolutely adore it. Black Pepper, Laminaria Seaweed and Vetiver, which is not noted here. It's amber woody and feels so chic and luxurious but in an airy, aromatic way, like something Ellena created for Hermes. It's in the same wheelhouse as Poivre Samarcande perhaps. I love it so much and it feels so much a part of me, this really could become a bit of a signature scent. While the scent is nicely understated, I find the performance and durability excellent with a noticeable sillage - in my personal space at least. I have a lot of love for what Genyum do generally - their range is strong throughout and worth sampling - and Painter is my favourite of them. @thescentiest
References to the Creed are understandable with its smoky woodiness and its bergamot note, it’s definitely in the same olfactory family, however Boy of June is led by a beautiful patchouli and is a total delight to wear. It doesn’t feel at all obnoxious either. In particular, I really enjoy the apple and the incense. It falls on the masculine side of perfumery with solid projection and a mass appealing trail. If I were Jan, I’d be pretty pleased with this.
A beautiful new release from the British luxury brand. There are some curious reviews of this which for me are way off the mark. When I smell this, my nostrils are filled with the deliciousness of spiced baked goods. It's not just plain ol' vanilla, thankfully. In fact, I'd suggest closer references to something like Sweetie Aoud, thanks to the carb-laden bran note and a subtle oud note in the base, however it's much more wearable and zhuzhy. At times, it feels quite tonka-forward although it's not listed. The perfumer, Celine, says the main ingredient here is cistus absolute, but to me it's imperceptible, although I'm sure it has a distinct effect on the scent generally. For me, the drydown is all yummy, custardy vanilla with thyme and bran which gives it a fairly savoury inflection. I can forgive those for thinking this is not so summery, but to me, it works beautifully on a warm sunny morning paired with a crisp white linen outfit. Really lovely and well worth trying!
There's something about Quentin Bisch's ongoing collaboration with Marc Antoine Barrois that continues to deliver perfumes elevated above the norms of the industry, and Tilia is not an exception. With a fairly linear design, the sixth perfume by the brand is pure happiness, bottled. Yes, detractors might suggest Tilia is one more in a line of releases where the perfumer is ploughing an already ploughed field, that it's Bisch returning to his old book of tricks. And in truth, there is the well used formula of sparkly astral twinkles. No one claims that a new Chypre on the market is a cheap cash in on the success of previous Chypres, these days at least. And I could argue Bisch has succeeded in creating a sort of genre all of his own, 'The Bisch'. Perhaps in future, perfume historians might remark of 'Bischyness'. Oddly, the best 'Bisch' might not even by signed by the man himself, eventually. Anyway, similarities aside, Tilia is so much brighter, sunnier, and happier than the previous five. It's potent and lasting. as are all his works for the brand. It bursts forth with the most solar of blossoms and a confectionary, opiate, nectar. It's no normal nectar, but that of the gods; honeyed, sweet, and airy. There's an ounce of aldehydic powder and it does feel a little like clean linen upon drying down on skin, however don't be fooled. This is not your regular washing detergent smell, look to L'eau Papier or 312 St Honore for that. This here is the smell of fresh laundry, laundered in heaven's laundrette by Apollo himself and left out to dry on the line next to the linden trees. It's a stunning release and one perfectly timed for the seasonal shifts that bring the more summery side of perfumery into play. Enjoy! Follow me on Socials: @TheScentiest
I love this daffodil! I tried it at the Tom Ford boutique on Harrods sixth floor yesterday. It's only available in flagship stores and is NOT discontinued as some below have suggested, although you do have to spend on it. It's only available in the 250ml format, but they will throw in a luxurious 50ml travel spray when you buy. I'll never ever need 250ml of anything so it's a pass from me. Follow me on Instagram - @TheScentiest
Powerful sillage and monolithic endurance are typical features of a Bisch perfume Venn diagram, others being creativity, distinctiveness, and originality. The sum of all of this usually results in novel scents that pair the function and wearability of a classic with the genius verve of an artist. Tubereuse Astrale reads along the lines of something Barrois would just-about turn down for being too garish - a racy space station tuberose - yet when positioned in the Crivelli stable, fits like a dove joint with their other barnstorming offerings. Its playful, loud, bubblegum florals are at one with the perfume's Ganymede-like aura and I love its raucous, brash attitude. It's the least femme tuberose I've ever tried and something I'll very much enjoy wearing. Follow me on Instagram: @TheScentiest
This is incredible, Amer is such a talented artist.