Black Orchid opens with a juicy burst of blackcurrant and orange accompanied by intense florals such as orchid and ylang-ylang. The patchouli and truffle add an almost minty bitterness to the composition which offsets the sweetness. In the dry down the patchouli and orchid continue to dominate the senses as the brighter notes dissipate, with the added smooth darkness coming from the chocolate accord. Incense and spicy notes add to the complexity and darkness of the fragrance, overall leaving the wearer with a mysteriously sweet and alluring scent bubble. The materials used here are of a good quality and the performance is great, however the scent can be challenging and overbearing for some. While personally I find Black Orchid too feminine for my taste, I can appreciate the creativity and uniqueness of this fragrance.

Dark Rose - not as dark as you would think. This fragrance opens with a very bright and feminine rose, may chang and lily - soft and smooth florals which compliment each other well, with not much detection of anything darker than this. In the heart you are greeted with a sour sharpness from the musk and cedar wood, however this combination with the florals results in a slightly synthetic outcome. As it dries down, a sweet saffron and earthy patchouli present themselves and mix with the florals. Unfortunately to me this seems to create something very reminiscent of a bathroom cleaner, very soapy and slightly sharp. With the sample I have here, I cannot detect any oud or even oud accord which is disappointing. Overall this is a pleasant soapy floral autumn scent for women, however it does not live up to the price tag attached.

B683 Extrait explodes with a spicy, juicy burst of cumin, green apple and violet leaf. The opening has such addicting depth with this dry, fruity combination. As the heart begins to shine, pink pepper and patchouli become noticeable which compliment the previous notes beautifully. As this dries down the original B683 composure begins to shine - the safraleine, violet leaf and sandalwood are perfectly complimented by a dry, dusty oud which elevates the entire scent profile to something incredible. This is by far one of the strongest fragrances I have sampled and receives great reactions from those around you, the quality of ingredients is simply stunning. Overall this is a masterful expression of what perfumery should be. It’s bold, high quality and artistic, and beautifully builds upon the DNA of the original as an extrait flanker should. While the price unfortunately is very high, Quentin Bisch has really outdone himself with this release. Utter perfection.

Oud for Greatness opens with a sharp and sweet saffron bomb, darkened around the edges with an oud accord and patchouli. The lavender and nutmeg quickly present themselves in the heart of the fragrance to give it an aromatic and spicy kick which is blended very well with the other notes. As it hits the dry down you’re greeted with an intensely sweet yet smooth saffron and oud combination which is undeniably alluring and captivating. The nutmeg lingers in the background to create a warm spicy bubble while the patchouli starts to dwindle and this fragrance becomes more sweet than dark. This is a head turning and addictive fragrance, perfect for classy nights out when you’re looking to impress - and the performance won’t let you down. This is one of my favourite saffron based scents, however if you’re looking for an oud scent specifically then this one is not it. Unfortunately it does not smell like real oud has been used which is disappointing for the price, however it still smells incredible nonetheless.

Animalistic beauty. Layton Exclusif opens with an explosive dose of oud, guaiac wood, patchouli and vanilla - these dark notes are then balanced with a hint of orange and almond. This dark scent profile lingers as the original Layton begins to gently shine with its classic trio of sweet vanilla, almond and creamy sandalwood. After some time the DNA of the original Layton becomes even more prominent, yet with a dusky, animalic twist. The oud and patchouli in the dry down give the fragrance a dark and earthy backbone, while the coffee and civet add an intoxicating bitterness. Layton Exclusif builds upon the undeniable success of its predecessor, but tailored for an even more niche market. This fragrance is noticeably more challenging and mature with so much more depth than the original, and yet is just as alluring. With fantastic projection and longevity, this scent is objectively perfect and receives great feedback from those who smell it on you.

Jubilation XXV by Amouage is a fantastically regal experience. It opens very bright and sharp with orange, blackberry and olibanum before the aromatics of tarragon and bay leaf catch up. It then develops a sweet and spicy heart with honey, cinnamon and clove to create a warming and inviting scent bubble. The dry down however is where this fragrance shines, when the oud and patchouli become noticeable with the consistent olibanum, myrrh and opoponax running throughout (not forgetting the powerful blackberry and honey notes) - you’re left with a deliciously sweet, smokey and resinous scent trail that will have you feeling like a Saudi Prince. I have not tried the original formulations of Jubilation XXV so I cannot compare, however current batches unfortunately don’t have the best performance. Despite this, it smells outstanding and will definitely get you noticed. A true masterful expression of luxury Middle Eastern perfumery.

Dior Sauvage Elixir initially opens with a burst of sharp grapefruit, lavender and liquorice before quickly developing a deeper heart adding cinnamon, nutmeg and cardamom to the mix to create a truly enigmatic cloud of aromatic warm spices. As it dries down the sandalwood, patchouli and vetiver begin to shine, giving the fragrance an earthy darkness. The lavender, liquorice and nutmeg remain a powerful constant throughout the life of this scent and the liquorice in particular gives it a sticky, almost resinous facet. This is everything Sauvage should have been and an absolute modern masterpiece by Francois Demachy, a fantastic creation to leave us with before his departure from Dior. The performance is nuclear and it garners endless compliments from those around you, one of the best men’s designer fragrances on the market and a beastly addition to any winter collection.

Unapologetic elegance. Dior Homme Parfum opens with a slightly animalic leather and sandalwood sharpened by a hint of orange. A heart of cedar and ambrette then join the party as the leather and iris begin to take over. As this dries down you’re blasted with beautifully smooth Iris and leather with a touch of rose. The combination of sandalwood, oud and cedar running through this scent from start to finish is undeniably masculine, perfect for a classy night out when you’re dressed to impress. This is the epitome of men’s designer fragrances, a fantastic release from Dior and a master stroke by Francois Demachy. It’s rich, sophisticated and powerful, and will stick to your skin all day making a lasting impression on those around you. A must have for any fragrance collector and a true modern classic.

Ombré Leather by Tom Ford opens with a burst of clean black leather and jasmine, before quickly developing a heart of leathery cardamom. The jasmine dances with these darker notes to brighten the scent profile and smooth it out. I find the dry down develops quite quickly into an amber-patchouli base, with the black leather and jasmine remaining a reliable constant. It takes me to a place reminiscent of sitting in the rich leather seats of a brand new Jaguar, and will have you feeling powerful and confident all day long with fantastic projection and longevity. I’m not sure why this is marketed as unisex as this is pure masculinity in a bottle. Overall this is a fantastic leather fragrance that takes a fresher, cleaner approach than your typical leather scent. I cannot stand Tuscan Leather and for me this is the more refined and mass appealing option.