fragrances
reviews
530 reviews
Enslaved is the epitome of oriental Chypre, I’m gutted this magnificent beauty is no longer with us, but I understand its discontinuation, as this is a composition from a bygone era. It’s undeniably old school, classical French perfumery at its best. Warming and vintage in the most comforting way possible. Carnation is the star here - it’s dense and warming with its clove-like spiciness, thickened by a smooth base of leathery labdanum and oakmoss. I pick up a prominent rose and salty geranium combination in the background, alongside powdery florals and soft citruses. This is an utter masterpiece, it smells like travelling back in time 70 years, to the golden age of perfume. I managed to find an old paper label, plastic cap 30ml bottle and I will treasure it until I can find another. A must have!
Gentle Fluidity Silver definitely nails the category of name - it is both gentle and certainly connotes the idea of silver; clean, crisp, metallic and straightforward. It’s a nice fresh scent, with that recognisable synthetic cleanliness Kurkdjian likes to use so often. Juniper berries are the focal point here - they’re sweet and juicy, yet their dry and aromatic facets are highlighted by vague woods and a hint of spice. However, metallic musks and citruses liven things up a bit, giving you that feel of a refreshing gin and tonic. It’s a good fragrance, and I find myself enjoying it on my skin - it’s refreshing, simple and satisfying to wear. I’ll definitely enjoy using the remainder of my sample in the warmer weather, but I just can’t justify the price for such a simple scent profile.
Baccarat Rouge has become one of the most famous fragrances of all time, but I’m struggling to decide whether I understand why or not. It certainly encapsulates what was driving the market in the 2010s - clean, inoffensive scents which are above all, minimalist and unisex. This, to the mass market, is basically a license to print money, but for enthusiasts it seems to come across as boring and uninspired. Sweet, honeyed saffron and soapy white jasmine take centre stage among a concoction of clinically sanitised amberwoods, ambergris and white musks. It smells very clean, almost too clean - like a hospital. But it’s got the sugary sweetness to at least give it some substance, however still leaves me wanting more. I get why it’s popular, I just can’t feel that for myself. It’s not a bad scent, but in this day and age the countless clones of it will give you much better value for money. Of course it gets lots of positive attention if that’s all you want, but you’re unlikely to be remembered for a smell like this.
I’ve always been a big fan of Ganymede, I love it in fact, there’s something so undeniably addictive about it. With Ganymede Extrait I was hoping for a similar situation as B683 Extrait - an improvement elevated beyond imagination. Instead, I’m left with what is basically just the same old Ganymede with a slightly spicy twist. Don’t get me wrong, this doesn’t make it a bad fragrance - as I said I adore Ganymede, and so the fact that this retains the exact same core scent profile means it smells absolutely incredible. The only difference to my nose is that very subtle warm spicy, incense-y touch which is lovely, but not all that impressive - as B683 Extrait took on an almost entirely new scent profile. Overall, I think this is a fantastic smell, which is why I’ve rated it as a love because I truly have loved wearing my sample. But for the difference in price? You might as well save yourself a good chunk of money and just get the original Ganymede.
Ambre Sultan really is a fantastic reference Amber, for those that want to familiarise themselves with this fragrance family more, but it’s so much more than that. This is easily one of the best ambers on the market even today, which is seriously impressive given how cheap it can be found online. It takes Amber into a more aromatic direction than you might expect. The Amber accord itself is very rich - heaps of dry, thick resins and powdery woods resting on just a whisper of sweet, creamy vanilla. Before this gets too warm however, this dense aromatic herbaceous-ness comes into play which is utterly sublime; what smells like bay leaf which is both dry and green, leafy and stemmy which somehow complements the antagonist notes perfectly. I adore this fragrance, it’s easily one of the best from Serge Lutens and for the price it would be insane not to own it. I’m going to thoroughly enjoy wearing this sample and will hopefully pick up a full bottle very soon. Incredible perfumery here.
Black Ambergris is a bold and daring fragrance, one which I will not soon forget experiencing. It’s a dark and brooding scent which conveys feelings of melancholy, mystery and desire all in one. I’m finding it hard to decide whether I like it or not, but I’m definitely captivated. Despite the name, a wonderful note of dark chocolate takes the stage here - it smells to me as though this accord has been made up of natural tobacco and patchouli mainly, giving the scent a profoundly damp and earthy texture. Soft, burning incense in the background makes this warm and fuzzy, with just a touch of that iconic salty ambergris. The name is funny because to me, the ambergris is the most passive note in here - it’s really not that noticeable at all. But as chocolate fragrances go, this is definitely up there with the best of them. This is not your average gourmand.
Royal Tobacco is a tobacco scent like no other, it’s unique and memorable in its character but not as challenging or polarising as other fragrances in this line such as Silver Oud or King Blue. Whilst I’m not the biggest fan of tobacco, I can really appreciate what a lovely creation this is. The tobacco here is very dry, but smooth, complemented tastefully by an array of gentle resins and balsams giving the scent a slightly smoky, leathery edge. There’s this dry spicy facet coming most noticeably from the gentle whisper of liquorice, which thankfully isn’t overdosed, alongside the warmth of cardamom among other spices. It smells lovely - very smooth, dry and warming with little to no filth or stink about it. It’s not something I love or would rush to buy, as I said I’m not a big fan of tobacco in general, but for those that are I think this is definitely worth checking out.
Tonka Sarrapia is huge, an unforgiving beast penetrating with overpowering sweetness the nostrils of anybody nearby. Sarrapia is a tree which produces tonka beans, and unlike Vanille Planifolia, this Extrait 75 really celebrates the beauty of its star note in all it wonderful facets. As for the scent, imagine Feve Delicieuse minus the cherry, chocolate and caramel - the tonka used here is virtually identical to my nose. It’s obviously outrageously sweet, enough to almost give you toothache, but has this gorgeously dry and nutty bitter almond note which pairs beautifully with the tonka. I must admit I love this. Not enough to justify the absurd price tag but if I managed to find it for half the RRP I would definitely pick it up. Tonka is a magical note and it is done to perfection here, the projection is enormous too!
Vanille Planifolia is a species of vanilla orchid native to South America, and the star of the show in this Guerlain Extrait 21. I’ve always been a big lover of vanilla, and so I had high hopes for this one especially considering the price, but unfortunately I cannot say these expectations were met. Don’t get me wrong it smells great, it’s a lovely creamy vanilla which, as you would expect, is rather sweet and seductive. However I find it actually doesn’t delve into all the facets vanilla can have quite enough, instead trying to contrast its beauty with sharp spices and resins. In the end I find it quite boring actually. I wanted to love this so badly, and I don’t dislike it in any sense, it just has no justification for costing £500/50ml. Overall this was quite a major let down for me, for a fragrance which could have been so great.
Now THIS is a creation I can get behind, Paradise Soil is an absolute beauty, oozing with delicious elegance and character. This chocolatey-floral delight is like nothing I’ve ever smelled before, really pushing the boundary of what niche perfume can be - I love it. The cacao is actually the most prominent note to my nose, its beautifully sweet and creamy chocolatey facets tempered by the dark and inviting earthiness it also holds. Beautifully thick, indolic white florals and tuberose and Jasmine dance alongside the sharp, urinous allure of natural deer musk and oud. Before it becomes too skanky however, copious amounts of sandalwood lend to the soft creamy nature. I think this is absolutely brilliant, it’s been a long time since something has wowed me like this. It definitely won’t be for everyone, but that’s the nature of a house such as Areej Le Doré. This is a truly unique and innovative creation which really deserves so much more attention.