Bois D’Iris is a lovely fragrance for a sophisticated and self-assured person who does not need to scream for attention. However, the name could be considered rather misleading, as the scent itself is much warmer and richer than you would believe. All in all this is a dry, resinous scent with sweet and creamy nuances. Incense and myrrh are dominant to my nose, balanced by the delicious sweetness of vanilla - sugar is also listed but is obviously just marketing. This marriage of vanilla and incense is smoothed out by the buttery subtlety of an iris accord, making what you would think the primary note, in fact a supporting one. Overall however, I really enjoy this scent - it’s perfect for those ‘in-between’ days during that period of transition between summer and autumn. If you have smelled Encens Suave, you will notice an obvious similarity between the two. However whilst Encens Suave screams, Bois D’Iris whispers, which I greatly appreciate.

Costa Azzurra is a scent which is often overlooked, for I suppose it is technically not that special. I however, love the stuff despite the composition not fitting within my usual style. I feel it’s an impressively unique take on a masculine summer scent, and one that I don’t feel I will tire of any time soon. The bulk of the scent is actually built around a central theme of a classical mens ‘aftershave’ with certain fougere qualities - lavender, citrus, woods and cypress leave the impression of a mature, sophisticated gentleman. It’s from here that the added layer of driftwood and seaweed are placed on top, tying in a beautifully salty and marine nuance, like the rushing waves of the Italian coast splashing against your skin. As I said, most people overlook this. Is it my favourite fragrance ever? No of course not, but as an easy to wear perfume for the summer, I think it’s brilliant. Unfortunately the extortionate Tom Ford prices are a downside but in regards to the scent alone I think it’s lovely. The parfum is noticeably longer lasting, but overall the same scent profile which I don’t believe justifies a further increase in price.

‘Cabochard’ translates as ‘stubborn’ or ‘headstrong’ which is aptly named as Grès was a woman who was generally considered as not understanding the concept of compromise, yet was regularly voted the most chic woman in the world. The scent which brought fame to her house was tailor-made for this exact type of person, as it will always provoke a reaction. The scent is based around a central leathery core of isobutyl quinoline which is gloriously thick and robust, tempered by the earthy depth and allure of oakmoss, patchouli and galbanum. Hints of aldehydes and vague florals protect it from being what would be bordering on unwearable, and ties that element of class and ‘chic’ character to the body of the scent. Overall I think this is glorious, generally considered one of the great classics of perfumery, this is a masterpiece through and through. I’ve not tried the original composition, only the current EDP released in 2019, yet still it leaves an immensely powerful impression.

What can even be said about Nina Illusion? Coming from a house that created the famously beautiful L’Air du Temps… What a fall from grace. Obviously, this is a boring and vapid release with little to no substance or reason for existing. Does it smell nice? Yes, I suppose it does, and if that’s all you’re looking for then that’s absolutely fine. But I find myself wanting more. The scent is a sweet, bubblegummy fruity affair focused around the combination of raspberry and orange blossom. Sweet vanilla and an array of citruses are also present in support. Overall it’s a pleasant scent, very feminine and surprisingly youthful from a house such as this. I wouldn’t mind smelling it on someone else, but for me it lacks character and interest unfortunately.

Spell 125 is the longest spell in the Ancient Egyptian Book of the Dead, covering the ceremonial process of crossing the underworld to reach the afterlife, including the famous weighing of the heart ceremony. Weirdly enough, I believe the imagery certainly comes through with this scent. It’s dominated by this intensely salty, musky and fleshy ambergris - upon first spray it was almost repulsive but after revisiting, it keeps drawing you in deeper and deeper; like the darkness of the underworld pulling you away from the light. To contrast this is a hefty dose of sharp, aromatic pine which is beautifully woody and green, alongside frankincense which has long been known to be a favourite among the Ancient Egyptians. At first I didn’t really like this scent, I found it very daring and out of my comfort zone. But after repeat testing and wearing I can safely say it’s growing on me hugely. I have always been looking for an ambergris which is intense and musky without compromise - whilst the likes of SilencetheSea was far too much, I believe this could be the one.

Kingdom surprised me, as I would never have expected such an intriguing scent from a house such as Alexander McQueen. The notes swirl around in fantastic harmony and smells incredibly unique, in a brilliantly filthy way. I have heard others describing this as smelling like sex, and I would have a hard time disagreeing with them. A bright, zesty and tart opening of a multitude of citrus fruits is combined with the subtle sharpness of just a hint of mint. This tart juiciness is intensified by the note of rhubarb which smells simply fantastic, whilst a spicier heart of ginger and warm carnation develops. When I first smelled this, I was honestly expecting cumin to be listed in the breakdown, the spiciness and ‘sweaty’ nature really comes through - in a good way. A selection of gentle soapy florals and musks brightens things up, but only enough to create an image of clean linen strewn across the floor; a backdrop for the main display of two warm bodies enjoying each others company. I think this is a brilliant creation, would I wear it? Probably not, but I would definitely enjoy it in the hidden serenity of my home.

Hasu-no-Hana was originally created in 1888, representing the scent of the Japanese Lotus Lily. It is a glorious gentle floral resting on a dry, Chypre style base. A true classic in the world of perfumery, created in a time long before corporate greed and profit-driven creativity. It opens rather fresh initially, bright and zingy notes of bergamot and orange pave the way towards the clean, innocent florals which include: ylang, Iris, rose, lotus and jasmine. This gentle and soapy harmony of beautifully delicate flowers is complimented yet rooted down by the grounding and earthy nature of oakmoss, Vetiver, patchouli and cedar. This contrast is to die for, smelling both mature and sophisticated as it is intriguing and beguiling. I adore this scent, it’s everything I hoped it would be and more. The structure is fairly simplistic, and of course I have no idea how closely the house has stuck to the original composition, but it certainly smells of the time without smelling ‘elderly’. I definitely need to pick this up soon.

Stetson is a very 80s fragrance, as soon as you first smell it you’re transported to a period of loud barbershop smells and bold characters. With Francois Coty having died in 1934, this fragrance was obviously not made by the man himself - which I believe can be felt. It’s still a wonderful scent however; an aromatic, earthy and herbaceous combination of lavender, sage and patchouli develops into a warm, floral heart. A sweet base of honeyed musks and creamy vanillin and coumarin contrasts this beautifully. It’s got that old school men’s aftershave feel about it, with an element of Chypre hiding beneath. I have a sample from a vintage bottle, and it really does come alive on the skin. To me this clearly smells like it could well have been the inspiration behind Giorgio for Men which was to follow just 3 years after this was released. A classic in men’s perfumery.

Pour un Homme de Caron sums up a lot of what you’d want in a traditional men’s perfume. It clearly draws a lot of inspiration from Guerlain’s Jicky, without copying it too much. Overall it’s similar sort of aromatic lavender and coumarin combo which oozes class and maturity. The sample I have is of the modern formulation, I have no experience with the older versions so I cannot make comparisons - but I can well imagine that the original is superior by a mile. The fresh sweetness of vanilla and coumarin combined with lavender and rosemary is still gorgeous, if a little synthetic smelling. Overall it’s a very nice scent, I don’t love it enough to warrant buying a full bottle, but it’s piqued my interest enough that I’m keen to look for an older version (if the price isn’t eye watering).