Sticky Fingers is the powerful internal rumination of temptation and desire, a feeling so intense that logic and reason are all but abandoned. The chocolatey facets of patchouli hint at what could be a more innocent interpretation of ‘Sticky Fingers’, but this is soon disregarded for a more enticing, metaphorical meaning. Patchouli is the star here, it’s courageously thick, earthy and really delves into the chocolatey theme that this incredible material holds. Tobacco drives this into a much drier direction, whilst simultaneously battling a powerful thickness from leather and orris. Just as you think things might be sweetening up from an introduction of tonka and cinnamon, musk and castoreum shake the stage and challenge what you think you know about this composition. I absolutely love it. I’m not even the biggest lover of patchouli but this is a holy grail patchouli fragrance right here. It’s got all the lustrous enticement of a Francesca Bianchi creation, whilst soaring into a new realm with such a brave overdose of patchouli.

Encounters embodies the idea of contamination between two cultures; East meets West in the form of orris and oud combined. It’s a unique scent with a lot of contrasting elements, yet remains incredibly balanced and smooth throughout. Orris dominates the scent with its thick powdery elements, as is so characteristic of Francesca Bianchi. The oud however is very subtle, not particularly stinky or animalic, but instead dry and dusty. This is balanced beautifully by subtle aromatics of lavender and cassis, as well as a gentle citric kick, before developing a slightly salty ambergris heart. It’s lovely, it feels like there’s a lot going on and yet somehow seems to smell rather flat. I don’t feel I am searching for a bottomless end like I do with a lot of Francesca’s other creations. Overall it does smell great, but it doesn’t excite me as much as I would hope.

Lost in Heaven is all about the complex dichotomy of the human condition, the torn emotion of longing for a place of happiness - a paradise of innocence and joy, only to be compelled by your darker side, realising that paradise doesn’t exist without accepting the intrusive thoughts and desires which dwell within. This scent encapsulates everything I love about Francesca’s work. On one side, there’s an angelic melody of indolic jasmine and orange blossom, softened by the delicate intimacy of sandalwood, heliotrope and sweet tonka. This is contrasted by the darker, dirtier secrets within - a devilish concoction of castoreum, ambergris, cumin and a delectable recreation of Tonkin Musk. All of this rests on Bianchi’s signature orris base alongside a thick, leathery note of cistus. This scent is filth, there is no other way to describe it. The castoreum and cumin do not try to hide, giving you a sense of a dirty, slightly sweaty secret which has not been well kept. To some that may sound revolting, to me it is heavenly. Without question, this is easily one of my all time favourites from the house.

Angel’s Dust is a rather pleasant and joyful vintage-style scent, inspired by the imagery of a dusty boudoir of bygone times. To me, a description of that sort connotes an element of filth, sex and lust, which certainly seems to be lacking here unfortunately which is unusual for Bianchi. You definitely pick up the vintage feel of face powder and rose, which I must admit is lovely. Bianchi’s signature use of orris is of course stunning, but I feel like something is missing here. The musk and tolu balsam listed seem to be all but absent, stripping away any lustrous aspect you might hope for; it smells lovely, but lacks a certain depth and allure. Of course it smells lovely, and I very much enjoy wearing my sample, but Bianchi has a number of other orris-centric fragrances which provide far more depth and character. This is definitely one of the more wearable and palatable perfumes from the house.

Centaurus is the latest money-grab from Creed, hopping upon the recent sweet ambery bandwagon. Admittedly, it does smell nice, but it’s nothing particularly special, creative or interesting. Vanilla, benzoin and tonka take centre stage, dominating with their sweet, creamy facets among a spicy cinnamon and dry tobacco. The warmth of cardamom lingers in the air which gives the scent a sort of airy, buttery smoothness to it. A creamy pair of sandalwood and almond-like heliotrope amplify this dramatically, all whilst maintaining a soft, gentle sweetness throughout. As I said, it does smell good - I don’t think anyone can deny that. Unfortunately it just isn’t exciting enough to warrant such an expensive price tag, it feels very much like something I’ve smelled before; it’s very familiar. Overall, less than impressed.

The Dark Side is a scent which evokes a distant memory of covered spice markets and a bustling nightlife, as it is inspired by the city of Marrakesh. It’s an oriental, but not as you know it - the scent is an intensely rich and complex display of rare and exotic smells, enough to transport you completely to another world. The base of this perfume is made up of a traditional Amber accord, with its sweet resinous facets amplified by the inclusion of chewy styrax, as well as soft woods. Overlaying this, is a rich darkness of dry incense and earthy patchouli, casting a shadow over the sweetness to pull you further into the night. Above all, you’re blasted by an intense concoction of honeyed spices - the warmth of this deliciously aromatic sweetness is incredibly captivating, I could spend hours trying to describe it. I’ll be honest, I wasn’t a fan of this fragrance initially. I didn’t think it smelled bad, I just dismissed it early on, assuming I knew the depth of its allure and composition. The more I test it the more I realise I was wrong, and at this point realise I actually rather love it. To me, this is a scent you have to spend time with and really form a relationship with.

The Mariner’s Rhyme is perhaps the fragrance which detaches most from Francesca’s usual signature style, yet still retains her enigmatic charm deep within. This is an intensely marine and aquatic scent, with so much depth it feels like staring into the bottomless abyss of the ocean. Ambergris dominates, this provides the bulk of its characteristic salty and marine feel, elevated by the ozonic notes listed. Grapefruit lifts this into the sky with its bright and juicy facets, reminiscent of how the sun sparkles against the rushing waves of the sea. As it develops, the scent is then grounded and pulled back in by the dense thickness of orris, oakmoss and incense which perpetuates the idea of the dark ocean depths. It’s a fantastic creation. If you’re a lover of marine and aquatic fragrances this is a must try in my opinion. I’m conflicted whether or not I want a bottle as it’s not my usual style at all, and yet something keeps pulling me in. I imagine I’ll cave at some point and buy a 30ml.

Luxe Calme Volupte is inspired by a painting by Henri Matisse of the same name, conveying the idea of longing for a place of sensuous calmness and offering a suspension from human angst. It’s a beautifully balanced rendition of a green, aromatic floral, with the warmth of resins at its core. Galbanum is the primary note to my nose, which creates this intensely green and vegetal feel, whilst also remaining dry and slightly earthy. The bitterness of this gorgeous note is elevated by a bitter orange, alongside vetiver and soft woods. The balance comes from an array of gentle, powdered florals as is always Francesca’s style, backed up by an array of vaguely tropical fruits which gives the scent a much needed boost of sweetness. It’s hard to say how this scent makes me feel, as it does not remind me of a specific place or emotion. Instead it feels like purgatory, as though you are suspended between both your dreams and your fears; ethereal calm surrounds you and offers an escape from the mundane. Utterly beautiful.

Sex and the Sea epitomises exactly what it describes; it aims to implant in your mind the idea of not only the soft, salty warmth of your skin after a dip in the sea, but the sweaty, sticky nature of a sexual encounter on the beach. It’s absolutely stunning, and brings this idea to life perfectly. Most prominent to my nose, is a cocktail of various tropical fruits giving the scent an almost gourmand quality - pineapple and coconut combine with gentle florals of mimosa and Imortelle here. Obviously, there is a hefty dose of ambergris which provides that intensely salty facet, amplified by a whisper of filth from civet. All of this rests on a soft, sweet skin-like feel which can only be resonating from a subtle sandalwood and Amber accord. It’s absolutely brilliant. I couldn’t think of a better name to encapsulate a scent which smells like a hot sweaty sexual adventure by the sea - the salty spray of the water combined with the filth of our primal desires is daring, but ensnaring. I love it.