I first heard reverent whispers of the enigmatic Filigree from Thymes before the 2014 relaunch, and my interest piqued, I tracked down a bottle on eBay. Never have I read such wildly differing reviews about a fragrance! The Thymes website sings praises of its intricate layers and elusive nuances, and alternately people refer to it as rich, spicy, warm, creamy, and luxurious, but despite the dissimilar impressions, it is undeniably universally beloved. To my nose, it is a scent just this side of crisp and not exactly fresh. It reminds me of antique lace doilies and porcelain teapots It is gentle lemon peels and sweetly grassy and a delicate dusty amber that translates more as vanilla. It's light and lovely and, apparently, many things to many people, but we all seem to adore it.

Scandalwood is a fragrance that makes me a little sad. I first discovered the brand when I used Polyvore, a sort of virtual mood board for curating imaginary closets and creating fantasy outfits. I used to play around on it every single day for nearly a decade, and then in 2018, without warning, they shut it down. I was pretty upset--I made many friends through Polyvore, and it was a fun distraction that got me through some rough patches. Anyway, this is a perfume review, sorry. Scandalwood is inspired by Dita von Teese and much like her own outfits, the scent is very bare and barely there. Light and close to the skin, it's a lovely blend of sandalwood, cedar, rosewood, leather, and musk. It's not really all that erotic unless you get off on quiet naps and whispered ASMR. And hey, it takes all kinds.

OG perfume blogger Victoria of EauMg described Musk Therapy as smelling like "hot people effortlessly being hot," and friends, I am not immune to that sort of hyperbole; I'll even one-up it. This fragrance makes you feel like you're just better than everyone. And you'll smell so good, they'll go with it. It's got a beautiful bitter sourness like the salvia flowers just outside my house, which smell like velvety aldehydes and sparkling grapefruit peels and a musky magnolia and sandalwood soapiness that's neither too much of one nor the other, and wow...this really is a flawless, perfect summer scent. 

Edited to add: a friend just described this as "Abercrombie and Witch" and that is so perfect. Musk Therapy has got a sort of citrusy-fresh normie aspect to it that seems like something you smell all the time, but it's somehow elevated to an almost preternatural extent, like citrusy fresh as commissioned by a kajillionaire sorceress. I wear it because on one hand, it makes me feel like I'm blending in, but at the same time, I'm reassuring myself, "no, no, you're really different, you're NOT LIKE OTHER GIRLS" and that's when the full moon peeks from behind a cloud and then I wolf out and bite a Karen's head off when she chirps about good vibes only. No, Karen, we're gonna sit with our shit and do some shadow work, and we're gonna smell really hot while we're doing it.

In this perfume, I catch whiffs of three fragrances I absolutely loathe – the worst of the worst: KvD Sinner, Thierry Mugler's Angel, and V+R's Flowerbomb, each contributing its own special brand of cloying falseness, lurking in here like problematic d-list influencers. The combination of bright, honied heliotrope, candied lychee, and powdery vanilla marzipan creates something so aggressively artificial it's like that specific brand of try-hard glamour that screams, "I learned about luxury from watching unboxing videos." It's not badly made; it's just so deliberately vapid and performatively trendy that it makes you wonder if it's trolling you. The kind of perfume that would absolutely post a Mukbang video of itself eating other, better fragrances and then sobbing for the camera in a halo of ring lights.

Dusty vanilla, powdery sassafrass, and sandalwood, honeyed amaretto liqueur, and musky jasmine. Memories upon memories upon memories. I wore this fragrance exclusively in my mid-20s, it is a scent redolent of bad decisions and vicious, venomously abusive relationships but also of embracing incredible connections and embarking on marvelous discoveries. For me, Hypnotic Poison is a scent very much of a specific space and time in my life, and though can't place blame on the scent am happy to leave it in the past.

Serge Lutens Datura Noir, as far as noir-anything goes, is not noir at all. This is a milk glass fairy spell, cast in the delicate light of dawn, calling for pale blossoms soaked in milk at midnight. Heady aromas of honeysuckle and heliotrope combine with buttery floral vanilla fantasies, a flittering whimsy of bitter almond dream fuel, and a diaphanous reverie of powdery coconut musk. This datura-inspired fragrance is less deadly devil’s flower-induced euphoric hallucinations and more moonflower pudding for sleepy Thumbelinas.

Scorpio Rising from Eris Perfumes begins as a cool, citrusy pink pepper with rosy nuances, an artful enigma of a spice, more zingy herbal aromatic than the sting and pungent bite than you might expect. This is one of the more restrained Scorpios I’ve known, and while I don’t mean to generalize I can say that in my experience, there are two types of Scorpios: the one that is Very A Lot, they don’t hold back, you always know what they are thinking and they practically flay themselves open for you. They want you to have all of them, even and especially the ugly and scary bits. They wear their shadow side on their sleeve and their shadows aren’t very subtle, either. The other kind of Scorpio is not exactly secretive, silent-type, but their shadows are shrewd and sharp and you might not get to see them right away, but you always recognize they are there and you are inexplicably drawn to them like a moth to flame. While I am absolutely obsessed with pretty much all Scorpios, I think Eris’ Scorpio Rising falls more into the latter category and I wouldn’t automatically mark it as a bombastically passionate although I would say it has a quiet intensity that sort of sneaks up on you. After the cool, dry floral, and discreet fruitiness of the opening, there emerges delicate smoke and soft leather, woody-floral cardamom and immortelle’s elusive burnt sugar musk. This is the Scorpio you follow down shadowy corridors in a dream, following their lingering trail of scent, and when you’ve reached the dead-end abyss, the void at the end of the trail, you find they were behind you all along. This is the Scorpio that takes your hand as you jump into the darkness of the unknown.

August Picnic, 1976 from DSH Perfumes is an elusive and ephemeral splash of zesty, effervescent, subtly sweet-tart strawberry lemonade joie de vivre on a summer day when the grass is blindingly green and tall enough to tickle your knees and the sun hangs golden above the cedars, not even the barest whisper of winter in its shade—the joyous and wistful and fleeting perfume of an idyllic June afternoon.

I've recently been sampling several perfumes from Meo Fusciuni. So far, these are all introspective, quiet creations--nothing bold or bombastic, but they're all really lovely, and I get the sense from interviews and the way shop keeps and other perfumers talk about him that he is a thoughtful, elegant, and articulate fellow.

Because I agonize over these things, I wonder if he might be bummed out (or maybe, hopefully, elated?) to read a review wherein someone compares his Spirito offering to a less sleazy, more delicate and pensive Drakkar Noir?

Ok, some context. I love Drakkar Noir. I always have. My high school boyfriend used to wear it, and I found it rather swoony. In retrospect, I am realizing that I wanted it to be a swoony fragrance FOR ME. I wanted to smell like a villainous rascal reeking of peppery-woody-musky fougère! And somehow --just today!-- I am realizing that I have been drawn to various iterations of this combination of notes all throughout my journey with perfume.

When I smelled Spirito this morning, I thought, "Gosh! This is like Drakkar Noir leveling up after 12 lifetimes, and it's finally stopped being the skeeziest guy at titty bars. It mediates and keeps a journal, and it'll listen with intent when you talk now, and it'll ask you if you want venting space or solution space. It's sensitive and self-aware. Maybe even a little wistful and ruminative.

In reviewing their various compositions, it looks like they don't have an awful lot in common. Just angelica, lavender, vetiver, and cedar. Maybe the interplay between the notes creates some kind of connection for me, I don't know. But I'm sticking with it. Spirito is a poetry-reading, contemplative Drakkar Noir whose roguish heart, it turns out, is just as fragile and hopeful, just as much as a dreamer as mine.

Meo Fusciuni, I mean no offense or insult! I adore Drakkar Noir, and as far as I am concerned, it is legendary. And Spirito took it (or my memory of it) to task and turned it into something softer, lovelier, and better.

Fiery Pink Pepper from Molton Brown opens with so much promise, a zesty dust storm of dry citrus peel and pith, ginger’s tangy effervescent spice, and some underlying rosy-peppery woody notes. It rapidly becomes a somewhat predictable smelling woody cologne that is somehow also aquatic, but both aspects are equally lackluster. It’s that bubbly, vivacious new acquaintance that when you get to know them, you realize that they don’t actually have any interests or passions and they don’t have much of an internal life. Fun for a very short time, but it’s no one you are ever going to have a deep or lasting connection with. This fragrance is the essence of that person--what little essence they might have, anyway-- distilled and bottled