Spice Must Flow is a fantastic fragrance combining warm spices like ginger, cinnamon, cardemom with a leathery sensual rose and incense. EdlO makes another fragrance which stands away from the trends, yes it is a rose scentered unisex scent, but it is softer, less loud and oud heavy. It is complex, yet simple and absolutly refined. And unisex without going a bit one way or the other. It can be worn by a gorgeous woman in a red dress and a man in jeans, a linnen shirt and a suède jacket. It‘s more about: does this scent suit you? or not?

I really love it because of this, it tells the story of the silk roads, I imagine the bazaars of Istanbul meeting the refined bars of Venice, the harsh warm desert meeting civilization with fragrant buildings, opulence and beauty. But i too give in to the whole Dune-thing, yes I can imagine the Arakis of the Freamen smell like this. but that’s all too the imagination of the wearer and the one who interacts with Him/her/them.

overall i think this is a triumph of Mathilde Bijaoui. EdlO strikes again as a fragrance house that doesn’t need to live by trends, but sets the road. SMF has a medium to soft sillage, a medium projection and a 10h longevity. Which is perfect for everyday wear or just an evening/night.

Deified by Xerjoff is a wonderfull fragrance, mixing Middle-Eastern sweetness, sticky, spicy fresh apple with Western leather and woods. If you try and view it apart from the commercial/rock’nroll story you get a beautifull more male leaning warm, fresh spicy, leathery, slightly tobacco, apple scent that gives you a modern interpretation of a 19th-20th century Bohemian. Dressed in middle-eastern fabrics, living in a grand house filled with all kind of objects from all over the Mediterranean and Levant, he lives a full life, filled with excess and opulence. It’s a dandy, but not one that shouts or seeks the world’s view, he just does his thing. He loves to relax with a waterpipe, a good book and excellent food. He just loves life.

deified gives a great longevity, certainly a whole day, settling in clothes for longer. But not in a sticky, ambery paste way, but more in hints of it’s apple tobacco, leathery feel. It’s bright and sweet at the same time, yet Woody and leathery. When and how often Do you wear it? That’s up to you and the vibe you want to give. It suits any occasion, just don’t wear it when it’s more that 25C. And know that it really isn’t some Davidoff Cool Water one suits all scent.

Deified is a Fragrance that is grounded, grown up, yet fun and whimsical. it’s different, a bit weird, but in the most beautiful way. Ignore the commercial talks and make it your own.

The Need To Fly starts of as a crisp tonic bases summer cocktail, with fresh spices. After one hour it reminds me a bit more of absinth, with a crispy fennel/anise combined with some fresh woodiness. At the end, an hour or 4-5 into the fragrance’s life you get a soft skin like woody freshness with a very soft like leathery note. It is a very lovely daily scent that gives the wearer a nice evolution in fragrance. It’s a lovely crisp fresh fragrance that comes to it own on a lovely warm day.

Tero is a briljant scent, it’s not a gourmand, not a spicy nor a woody scent, it’s it all at the same time and it takes the best of all the different kinds. It opens as a peppery spicy scent, with sweet and opulent notes of cinnamon, sechuan pepper and slight pepper notes, going into a sweet-salty caramel with deep, warm woods and ambery base. To me it’s a hidden gem, it’s a masterpiece of perfumery by Carlos Benaim and lets the audience engage with a scent that is not purely 1 sort. It’s oriental meets west, warm woody, spicy scent of indulgence and opulence.

it comes to its own in winter as in summer, it depends on what vibe you want to get. Its longevity is out of this world, it gives projection, but not in an intrusive way. it’s elegant, bohemien and opulent at the same time and it takes you on a journey, as a masterpiece fragrance should.

Nostos is to me a very beautiful and perfectly balanced Rose-Oud fragrance.

It’s not loud or very punchent, it’s more refind, understated and more ”in control” then perhaps a oud-maracuja. The Oud is ronded and the rose is also more like Moroccan Rosewater then the rose is Portrait of a lady. And all bound together by a saffron note, that makes it into a beautiful balanced scent. I think this is a french take on the middle-east, it combines a European understatement with strong Middle-Eastern ingredients.

As with allot of EldO: After a few hours (+- 2-4h) It becomes more of close scent, and maybe there lies, in my opinion, it‘s only fault. The projection could have been better, it shouldn’t be loud, but a bit more of an aura around the wearer for a longer time would have made it perfect. But this aside, it’s a fantastic scent, that gives me like a mix between a Souk, a french town and a slight old churchy vibe. i love it. And because of it‘s restrained ellegance, you could wear it anytime, any season and on any occasion.

Julien Rasquinet made an unsweetend, uncompromising take on incense. The sharpness of the vetiver takes real centre stage in Inscense Crush, the spice notes are very soft and only sometimes break through the wall of Incense and vetiver. I don’t notice the leather note so much, but get allot of smoky, ashy notes. It reminds me of visiting an old french monastry, maybe a Greek-Orthodox one, where there are 4 monks that keep on their traditions in a vast empty monastry, where the halls always small of the incense used in the masses. Combined with the smells the gardens and the freshly mowed grass.

It really gets to the essence of what Rasquinet’s perfumery is all about: evoking memories.

Do i love to wear it? No, the sharpness is to brash and hard for me personaly, but do I love the memorie it evokes? Absolutly! It just makes clear what a master-perfumer Julien Rasquinet is.

a beautiful fragrance, Well balanced sweetness with lots of spices. It tickels the senses and in my opinion is a very beautiful female fragrance. It reminds me of Feminité du Bois, but far superior.

overall “i am trash“ is a very nice skin scent, the opening of beautifull ripe apple with rose is perfectly balanced and very neutral unisex. The dry down comes very fast and gives a woody base with slight hints of that opening. The scène of flowers going past their best is good, without being ”trashy” or “stinky”. it’s a an overal beauty of a fragrance but sadly it could have been stronger of slightly more potent. Its longevity is good, but it becomes a very close skin scent really fast, which i’m personally not a fan. It doesn’t need to be a bomb, but a bit of sillage or projection should be possible.

Erolfa is to me quintesssential summer. The opening is like wave of citrus coming it great you when you stand in an italian Bergamot field. Combined with fresh spices like little sparkles or drops of seawater, ginger, slight peppery and dry’s down in this oppulent woody basenote. it’s masculine without being brash. It’s refined and makes me think of a wealthy Grand Tourer, sitting on a terras in an Italian town, not far from the sea, enjoying his day, relaxing and having no worries on his mind. Maybe he will go sailing or just take a book and read all day to finish with a nice apero and good plate of food.

Erolfa is well balanced and brings all what is good in man’s summer fragrances and Bourdon combines it like the master he is.

An okay allrounder cologne for summerdays, soft, very much a skin fragrance, but not a high flyer.

the surprising hint of a vegetably fennel in the opening mixed with citrus is nice, its drydown is light woody and powdery with indeed a faint tea note in it. It‘s good, but not mind boggeling. if you want a cologne or a cologne kind of fragrance with citrus and woody drydown you can get far better on the market. The fennel note is fun, but to me not convincing enough of the great mastery of FK. And you want Tea notes then there are even more alternatives that are far superior.