アンダー・マイ・スキンは、フランチェスカがアニマル・テーマを解釈したものだが、意外にも私の鼻には、彼女の香りの中で最もアニマルな香りには思えなかった。そしてなんという美しさだろう。ビアンキの作品によく見られるように、レザーとオリスがコンポジションの最前線にあり、15%のイロンがレザーに圧倒的なドライさ、バターのような、パウダリーでわずかにアーシーな効果を与え、トルとペルーのバルサムの組み合わせがレザーに厚みを与えている。ムスク、カストレアム、アンバーグリスが完璧なムスキートリオを形成しているが、スパイスとラベンダーによって完璧なバランスが保たれているため、無礼なほどではない。これは大胆な香りで、力強さと自信を醸し出している。彼女の他の作品のような親密さや官能的な感じはないが、その意味では新鮮だ。パウダリーレザーとスパイスのコンビネーションは完璧。
Slightly fishy, mimosa skank-fest. It's wondeful but I can't imagine wearing it. The Lover's Tale is the limit for me with the Bianchi animalic fug. I'm glad to have a decent to wear to bed though.
So this has been a long time coming, I'd heard massively positive things about Francesca's work and was slow to get samples, for some strange reason? Anyway I started with Under my skin as this appeared to be the one with the most reviews and one that people seemed to be feeling earth-moving, epoch shattering connections with. Well I have to say I didn't feel all that connected to Under my skin at first. The quality materials and swathes of heavy, animal tinged spices explode out of the bottle at you. I love cumin and this has that sweaty, animalic, civet replacement dose but frankly it felt a little clumsy and kinda all over the place in the opening. I had the same thoughts as Bengale Rouge recently... Was this really the scent that was compared to vintage Guerlain's and the like? Because at the moment it feels distinctly Indy like. However, similar to Bengale Rouge it's an ugly ducking that becomes the proverbial swan and the drydown soars majestically. It gets progressively, sweeter, muskier and everything tightens up or loosens off? (one of them?) a bit like the skin or epidermal layer this is apparently under? Well, not apparently, it is under, and after two hours all the chaotic 'offness' had gone and it was under mine for sure. The soft, spicy, animalic undertones are just like warm, slightly dirty fur. The spicy cinnamon facets, lending a kind of tolu balm sense of subtly and a sweet musky nature throughout, balances perfectly now, and all is calm and right with the world. I learned the lesson a long time ago that some (especially indy and largely natural) fragrances have to go through some exceptionally potent (to the point of unpleasantness) phases to reach the place they really want to be...which is dried down and working with our skin, which is exactly where this perfume is at home....On skin....or under in? whatever?!?!? I will wear it properly to determine my thoughts further but it's a real heavy hitter and projected strongly as well as being super tenacious.
アンダー・マイ・スキン』は、影から麝香を抽出したものだ。レザーとサンダルウッドとアイリスで香りづけされた光のないプールの深みにゆっくりと潜り込んでいくような、没入感のある催眠術のような入り口であり、『アンダー・ザ・スキン』でエイリアンの誘惑者が獲物をおびき寄せ、捕らえる方法に恐怖と謎を与えている、不気味なミニマリストのストリングス曲の嗅覚的解釈なのだ。