I'm making a point of trying 212 flankers because I'm sure some will be okay and I still like the original despite it getting little to know rotation these days. This fragrance goes through a odd transition starting out at a generic, salty aquatic vibe which reminded me quite a lot of Aqva Toniq but not quite as seaweedy. I just plain don't like this Calone business despite enjoying L'eau D'Issey and AdG. However as this settles after a few minutes it becomes less about that and more of a powdered musky vibe which isn't all that bad. I can kinda see after a couple of hours how this chocolate note appears, for me it's still just powdery musk but slightly resembling a hint of cocoa powder maybe for a moment. I thought this was the case without ever knowing the notes.) The drydown is much the same and maybe one for the masses but fragrance heads will see this for what it is, a cheap smelling long lasting scent with no stand out qualities for me.

Shay & Blue are such a surprise package with some really, really good fragrances expected to be linear but then have unexpected notes. This is a fragrance I would describe as being a citrus that could've been done by Amouage...well not quite but almost. You think mmmmm...Sicilian Limes nice... If the blood orange was anything to go by this is going to be zesty and accurate, and it is. The opening is sharp and does have a realistic lime feel but it's not quite in the league of something like Jade from Armani prive. The citrus is joined by a herbal note which works well with it and then a kind of cedary backdrop, no surprises there then. However that isn't the whole story because the main theme of this perfume is the early onset and progressive development of a curried cumin type note. This actually turns a bright zingy scent which appears all fun and games at first, into a pretty spicy affair. This works perfectly with the lime too, like lime pickle you serve with poppadoms or something? I can get why people wouldn't like this the drydown is very masculine and spicy in my opinion and also a bit sweaty like L'Artisan parfumeur Timbuktu. I liked it a long lasting citrus that dishes up more than I had bargained for.

Right! Well I was excited to try this flanker as the original was excellent despite not being my thing so maybe an intense version won't be either? The top notes are a little deceiving, quite smokey but not in a heavy way at all, high end spicy sandalwood, some bite, pink pepper and loads of Rose. To me at least the rose feels a bit different to the original, it's still light but no where near as bright. This rose is slightly powdered and even comes across as violet/iris like at times. Great trail off this and very long lasting, so all in all this truly is an amped up version of the original and worthy of the 'Intense' moniker. Despite this overall positive review, I'm not that taken by it, Cartier have played it quite safe with this flanker probably figuring that they want to remain in keeping with the original. Worth checking out...you could do a lot worse.

This one is undoubtedly the best of the three in my opinion. The top notes are interestingly fresh I find that tomato leaf note is more the greeness of galbanum but I can see how it comes over that way...after all what's more Itailian than a tomato? There's sweetness and sharpness from orris root and labdanum. The leather is a little spicy, resinous, peppery and even medicinal I can smell myrrh in here quite heavily as it settles. That opening is very good, a touch green but warm and resinous too, never strong or overbearing. The drydown is different again with a soft ambery vanilla developing at the back of all this. Italian leather is interesting from the point of view of a progressive scent which delivers what I consider a more masculine leaning fragrance. The perfomance is pretty good...it's worth checking out this one.

I mean these are big bottles (probably 200ml) but I was a bit shocked by the price...£335!!! I previously tried Irish leather and although I found it did deliver a kind of leather note, it was a bit too niche for my liking. This shares similarities but again is quite different, the smell immediately reminded me of something but I can't place it just at this minute. This is a delicate floral scent which is the least 'leathery of the lot and listing suede on here is probably more accurate as it's a lighter more powdered effect. The juniper and citrus in the top notes are characteristic it would appear and the pink pepper, rose musk and vetiver are all present as it dries down. This has quality ingredients no doubt but the lasting power and silage are average and even disappointing at this price. I like the smell don't get me wrong and Memo perfumes certainly have a signature going on but this one isn't for me.

The combination of violets/rose and absinthe, especially in the top notes make for an intriguing brew. Levantium is pretty triumphant and I'm someone who loved Lothair from this collection as well. A perfect mixture of sweet and sour has a slight earthiness mixed with very luxurious and full bodied florals. The opening for me is quite musky but like everything from Penhaligon's totally under control allowing the wormwood and rose to shine but with a hint of clove and spices. The body of this fragrance is those woods oud and sandalwood to be precise and in the dry down are more prominent turning this juice very woody and almost animalic with musk after the first two hours. That floral combo in the top and heart notes reminds me for a moment of Tom Ford Noir de Noir but this is less deep and sensual but far more complex and less crowd pleasing. That floral woody base does have a slight 'off' note to it perhaps the oud but I find it a welcome and balancing dimension to Levantium. If yours expecting a strong oud fragrance this isn't it Penhaligon's (in the main) are all about combining lots of notes to create something which seems simple and effortless this fragrance is no different. I bought it on the spot because I was really taken with it but by the same rule it will never be my favourite fragrance. It has okay performance too.

Having tried the vast majority of Roja Dove fragrances I can honestly say that them being triumphantly brilliant, I still have this odd stigma that they're going to be disappointing. I thought to myself 'what's he gonna do with amber?' Many of his fragrances whether chypre's or Fougere's however he chooses to categorize them still contain a rich, warm body of labdanum/benzoin. I'd describe this as a musky, gourmand amber like the kind of wonderfully light accord you'd find in a designer fragrance but very natural and of much higher quality. IF you're expecting the typical, hot, sticky orange elixir or the dry, dusty old library then prepare to be shocked and amazed by this. I absolutely love this fragrance and if I could afford it, even at half the price... I would consider getting it for sure. The opening is fresh with orange and citrus notes then the powdery gourmand wave of chocolatey cacao, soft vanilla and spices then a very good base of amber. Just because it's called Amber do not make the mistake of thinking its linear or like something you have in your collection...it more than likely isn't.

I wrote a positive mini review of this on the forum already but I think I spoke too soon? The opening is fantastically fresh truly a wonderful mixture of two things which shouldn't work but just do...a very juicy, refreshing and watery Cucumber note with a creamy richer almond. The two are often used in those exfoliating products that tend to be used by or aimed primarily at women. That's not say I think this is feminine because it's a fresh scent which is quite inert and just can't help but just evoke an air of cleaniness. The almond is not sweet and the balance with the cucumber is just right however after the opening it's a different story. Mimosa will never be a favourite perfume ingredient for me and as this dries down the mimosa becomes extremely intrusive and in this context giving an awful moisturizing cream vibe, which I do not care for in the slightest! It works, it's a complementary ingredient to the almond and cucumber but similarly with heliotrope I find it quite floral and not in a sweet way but a good partnership for the almond nevertheless. Some will love this one and I can see why it's a good perfume and surprisingly lasts a long time but not for me I'm afraid after the first ten minutes it turns into a sour white/yellow floral, hand cream mess. Shame, I will give the 10ml bottle I got to my missus she'll wear it!

This is a really, really good oud fragrance and not because it stands out but rather that it doesn't. I let out the obligatory oud sigh of appreciation so it scores on that front. Oud Alif is so smooth and well done, it does have a leather quality to it and a creamy patchouli, I found it very impressive. A gourmand oud is how I'd describe it and understandable considering the rest of Shay & Blue's fragrances have that Food or at least fruit twist. Performance was good but never in your face and the price won't break the bank either. The theme of this house is wearable scents and this one is certainly that. Brilliant stuff!

Usually I will apply a fragrance and put it up to my partners nose and she will say the totally wrong description, like a dense creamy, oriental she'll say "mmmm...that's really fresh and fruity." Or something to that effect...basically the total opposite of what it is. (Who knows how her nose works she could be right and it's everyone else who's wrong.) Anyhow...memo Irish leather was a big exception...as soon as she got a whiff "that's LEATHER!" She proclaimed and I proceeded to patronise her with an unexpected "wow it is...well done!" I mean I can smell the leather (and I had prior knowledge of what the scent was called don't forget) but I was a bit surprised because for me it didn't smell completely typical or even that Tuscan Leather type approximation used in perfumery would have been more obvious for a noob to detect as 'leather' , I would imagine? Anyway... She went on to say that memo Irish leather smelled like a new car and I have to say I agree with her. It's a very accurate description because I would include the plastic and wood too. She never got the opening but it is indeed a sharp juniper which frankly I find jars with the leather. It takes a while to develop fully but when it does my my its an interesting one. Mate!!! Mate has shown up for a second time in a couple of days trying new fragrances and I'm still non the wiser what it smells like? Whatever is effecting the leather in here is not unpleasant but not to my liking. My first from this house and I'll be honest I've smelled better fragrances than this one, performance was good but I desperately want to try it again before writing anything off. Very very interesting...Gets marks for originally and that's half the battle these days.

Okay, so I very much like this perfume I have to say and I don't know why but it's a guilty pleasure for me, something about it's construction says it's kinda cheap thrills perfumery or lacking in a deeper level of sophistication. Yet a part of me craves this perfume. Another problem is that I own a clone of this, yeah me buying a clone! What a hypocrite!!! Let's add some context. I wasn't aware it was a clone, in as much as anyone can buy a Rasasi fragrance and expect to get something original and I certainly didn't know it was a clone of this and in fairness I've never smelled anything like Irish Leather/Ambergris showers so in fairness to Memo and Massenet gives them a huge amount of credit for making something truly memorable. It smells like hefty juniper, fizzy, green citrus in the opening, metallic, angular, it's incredible brightness only dimmed with the balance of dry, smoky, powdered aerated woody, leather accord. It's magnificently simple and direct, the kind of approach I imagine would go down well with the Aventus bro crowd, and I'm not saying that to seem all superior more that I think Memo really hit on something here. Irish leather is butch in terms of it's woody and leather themes but generally bright and easy going, pure high street fodder in that other sense but definitely feels decadent and luxurious in some sense too. I personally really enjoy wearing it and for me it doesn't raise a conundrum about the clone because having now worn this I perceive this as marginally better but truthfully there's not a great deal in it, I would advocate for this over the clone.