The review below is one way of looking at it, some could gush about the subtlety of these perfume, neither position is right or wrong, meaning I shall remain firmly perched on the fence about Bigarade Concentree. It has the romantic simplicity of Ellena's compositions and his typical style is written all over this. Opens really lovely, with a wonderful orange note, juicy, zesty and green. It proceeds to get slightly more of a bitter orange feel it, then a very faint hint of cumin. Cedar is about the only other note I get, maybe some of that hay is what is creating the grassy/dry/spice of cumin? and coupled with the bitterness of the orange it's a really good combination. I love the smell of this perfume, however is it worth the pricetag and with poor lasting power? Not for me, but if you want the exclusivity of a JCE creation on FM's imprint rather than Hermes or similar then I get why you might want it. UPDATE: How bloody interesting hey? Look what I said above only in 2018? I own this now and I would say that Malle creations are something which stay with you, and make an impression even if it seems as though they didn't at first. I'm not sure why? Is it the careful curation and contrary to my closing comment (above) the fact that Malle gets the best out of his perfumers? I mean JCE has made plenty of citruses but this really is Iconic. I think my description above is pretty bloody spot on, If I do say so myself. I'd maybe say that the listed 'hay' note really comes into play in this and works so well. I love it.

As much as this new ferrari line are impressively presented and superficially good quality, I'm not that taken with them, however this is one of the better ones for me. It's not just because I'm not a fan of Neroli in particular because in the right context it's very enjoyable, in fact in this context it's very enjoyable but one factor to me stifled hopes I had of adding this to my wardrobe, and that is... performance. Indeed it smells similar to niche, fresh citrus neroli's like TF Portofino but that lasts well and has somewhat of a base to speak of, after the initial excitement of bright Neroli's opening, (to use a boxing term) it gasses in the later rounds. Don't get me wrong, the sharp opening is as bright as it's namesake and the white florals in here smell of decent enough quality, however it's a slightly clumsy approach, not much finesse or surprises, just full on citrus and full on neroli. Considering the hype it's received and the powerful opening, I was extremely surprised by the lack of longevity. Some might say I'm being harsh for 20 odd £'s for 100ml and they might have a point, I've never been one to fixate about performance but here (maybe unfairly?) it bothered me slightly. I got a few hours out of it so if you want a decent, but throwaway, affordable neroli this is perfect. In spite of everything I've said I would still buy this and wear it beacause the price is so agreeable, Maybe it needs a few wears and just spray loads. Thumbs up ferrari.

A really interesting fragrance in that it progresses nicely with three distinct phases. Firstly it's a heavy, tobacco and honey/beeswax of something like Chergui or Back to Black. Then it becomes a almost powder like slightly floral version of that honey thing, finally retreating completely to a totally soft leather incense smell. I didn't find it very mind blowing, I do like the way it transitions and as someone who isn't a fan of honey or beeswax this has just the right balance. I wasn't convinced by it, longevity and sillage weren't there for the price point. The concept and quality are clearly there but it doesn't deliver performance and that is critical here. Chergui doesn't change as much as this one and has that hay note and arguably a stronger honey note however that lasts. Shame, I'm beeen meaning to sample Ramon's work but perhaps this wasn't the best one to start with.

I'm so glad I finally made this mine. I tried it in about 2013 I think? (I'm sure I penned a review... obviously not) managing to score a few samples and I was very impressed, with a classic and brilliantly executed fougere. However, other fragrances took priority and it's taken me until now to make it mine. Seemingly simple at first but has loads of layers and depth to it. The opening is fresh bergamot but only for a split second before waves of green, lushness and aromatic lavender and camomile embrace the senses. This truly evokes the natural, fern smell of the fougere name perfectly. The settled fragrance fritz between this lightwieght, upbeat, perfumery and a darker more earthy and masculine heart. This juxtaposition of contradictory, Schrodinger's cat-esque, super states is what true art can do for you. It has two main constituents which I love and that's geranium and carnation and they come on strong in the drydown. There's also an element of something a bit hand cream like and waxy even, slightly unpleasant (clary sage I reckon) peeking through only at times making the intrigue build even more. As we go right into the drydown the patchouli in the base kicks more and more giving it more substance and dirt. For a fougere with such green credentials so strange that it has shades of oriental warmth about it too. It starts to get a bit like Opium pour Homme, or even Bois 1920 Sushi Imperiale all that hazy carnation and spice. Almost faultless perfumery, I'm charmed by Fougere Royale it's superb. Guys you need to get this stuff. It's not the strongest fragrance in the world but the quality is there and if you over spray it like I did, it performs very satisfactorily indeed.

Wow! So this was an exclusive at Harrods yet it’s taken two years to get a wider release? My opinion is that it was worth the wait. Seriously this is awesome stuff! Smells very classic and very masculine but you are paying a premium for it. I’d feared, with a name like Sandalo that it would be a very slight, sandalwood but it’s more of a classic, I detect oak moss and patchouli, and a dirty lavender with a kind of eathiness reminding me of Tom Ford for men maybe or RL Safari, VC&A Tsar or classic eighties fragrances with sandalwood. It’s an aromatic Fougere type scent, citrus top notes, herbal and woody, the soft, clean woods left at the end are like a oud and sandalwood combo. I think it’s fantastic and another classic masculine idea in the same way Quercia from this line was too. I hope it’s not wildly expensive because I want it.

I’ve been desperately trying to figure out what this reminded me of and it’s Mandate, albeit this is smoother, stronger and all around more appealing version than the current one. I love Sandalo. It’s masculine, complex and I think I stated in my last review that my favourite was Quercia which is still great but it’s been overtaken by this.

Now I make no secret of the fact I love Andrier’s work but this whole Homme line has been a really slow burner for me. The original left me a bit cold, sure it was good but didn’t feel it making a lasting impression, the intense version was nice too but still didn’t captivate me. The one that did it for me was Femme, delicate and lovely but in keeping with the whole theme of this line, and even though I liked L’eau...I think I like it more because I just get them all now! Not that there was much to get, soft milky iris and warm woods and amber. L’eau is a touch fresher though, and does have white florals in here but again handled expertly by the perfumer. This is another one that will gradually give up its powdery secrets over time and no doubt charm me even more. I really liked it.

A pretty standard opening for an oud/rose fragrance but boy is it luminous and upbeat eventually settling to something of a clean, bright musk and sweet roses. One of the major notes in this composition is geranium, powdery and floral but with green fresh, airy aldehydes. Fascinating progression and an absolutely winning formula from something I thought might’ve been a stuffy and not particularly inspiring oud. I actually love this fragrance it was a decent blind buy.

This was a blind buy and a 'like' that I suspect may turn into a 'love'. However, it's not all fun and games, this fragrance is a challenge and has that kinda stale smoke smell you get with something like Rasasi Tobacco blaze (not near as bad) It's a very very dry woody smell. The opening does have some spicy notes and hint of cinnamon but that is soon overwhelmed by the main accord or dirty woods. This gets warmer and softer and more appealing throughout. This is undoubtedly an oud fragrance, it's pretty glaring and soft but no slouch on projection or longevity sitting low but humming away. I was slightly thrown out of the 'Niche' vibe after opening the 'fancy' looking but ultimately cheap and tacky box when confronted with a bottle that when I removed the top half of it broke off and remained in situ. Ruining the 'Niche' illusion for me. Thankfully the fragrance itself stacked up and I'm not so bothered about such things. I can't wait to wear it properly as it keep me sniffing. Oh also I have really wanted to find an alternative to the discontinued Rive Gauche intense and for long periods I was wondering why this was even compared, but sure enough this does resemble it in the drydown somehow, but this is still a dirtier, stranger cousin. I liked it.

I'm only just coming to write my review as I've had this on my list for sometime without doing anything about it, saw it cheap and just had to buy it. Well, it's just as I remember, an excellent kind of freshie that evokes aquatic vibes but with a super simple composition which opens sharp, kinda bitter grapefruit, pink pepper and I could swear a kinda cumin/caraway sort of thing which is a direct nod to the original on a cedar base. Oh yeah I get a touch of ginger in L'eau too, although it might just be the extra sharpness of the citrus & pink pepper giving that effect. It's classic and does resemble Dior Homme Cologne to some extent but with loads of the original Declaration as well making it a unique prospect. I was a little disappointed with performance, considering I sprayed it in store when it was released a few years back and thought the longevity was superb for this kind of fragrance. Anyway I'm glad to have it in my collection for another option on hotter days. Oh and Cartier have some classy looking bottles, this is no exception. Update: After owning this one for a while now, I'm gonna say that my initial regard for it was scuppered after I purchased it thinking....this isn't quite how I recall it being. However, wearing it more it's brought to light the spicier facets and even the light, curry leaf, cumin notes of the original, politely and distantly being nodded at and evoked by what is a brilliant, throwaway version of the original Declaration. This having more brightness and gingery pep to it. I love it again.

I remember this fragrance being released, but I always like the smell of Jungle Homme but felt it was a bit lightweight. I don't know if it's nostalgia but when I smell it now I get the subtle nuance, Oliver Cresp is wanting to convey. Relaxed, lime opening which is gently spiced with cinnamon, nutmeg and cardamom, melting into a soft sandalwood musk. It smells exotic and is quietly projecting and lasting well too. Truly stunning. Kinda reminds me of lots of things but is unique at the same time. Maybe Gucci Envy a fragrance from a similar time period, maybe a touch of Lalique Homme and Equis? Something about this is just so 90's. I effectively blind bought as I genuinely couldn't remember what Jungle Homme smelled like and I'm over the moon with it. I really like Kenzo as a brand, even the clothes are cool (despite the hefty pricetag) and the playful and let's face it slightly ridiculous design of the flacon needs a place in my wardrobe. I haven't had a Kenzo fragrance since Homme and that was going way back.