Under My Skin is Francesca’s interpretation of the animalic theme, but surprisingly doesn’t seem to be her most animalic fragrance to my nose; however, the name gives reference to the idea that it it’s core, this scent is still something more subtly human than overtly animal. And what a beauty it is. To me this feels like an almost oriental leather scent - as is very common with Bianchi’s work, leather and orris are at the forefront of the composition, at a dosage of 15% irone which provides this overwhelmingly dry, buttery, powdery and slightly earthy effect to the leather which in turn is thickened heavily by a pairing of tolu and Peru balsams. Musk, castoreum and ambergris form a perfectly musky trio, but not to the point that it is impolite, as it is perfectly balanced by the spices and lavender. This is a bold scent, it exudes power and confidence, it doesn’t feel quite as intimate or sensual as some of her other work but in a way it’s refreshing in that sense. I absolutely love this fragrance, the combination of powdery leather and spices is done to perfection.
Slightly fishy, mimosa skank-fest. It's wondeful but I can't imagine wearing it. The Lover's Tale is the limit for me with the Bianchi animalic fug. I'm glad to have a decent to wear to bed though.
So this has been a long time coming, I'd heard massively positive things about Francesca's work and was slow to get samples, for some strange reason? Anyway I started with Under my skin as this appeared to be the one with the most reviews and one that people seemed to be feeling earth-moving, epoch shattering connections with. Well I have to say I didn't feel all that connected to Under my skin at first. The quality materials and swathes of heavy, animal tinged spices explode out of the bottle at you. I love cumin and this has that sweaty, animalic, civet replacement dose but frankly it felt a little clumsy and kinda all over the place in the opening. I had the same thoughts as Bengale Rouge recently... Was this really the scent that was compared to vintage Guerlain's and the like? Because at the moment it feels distinctly Indy like. However, similar to Bengale Rouge it's an ugly ducking that becomes the proverbial swan and the drydown soars majestically. It gets progressively, sweeter, muskier and everything tightens up or loosens off? (one of them?) a bit like the skin or epidermal layer this is apparently under? Well, not apparently, it is under, and after two hours all the chaotic 'offness' had gone and it was under mine for sure. The soft, spicy, animalic undertones are just like warm, slightly dirty fur. The spicy cinnamon facets, lending a kind of tolu balm sense of subtly and a sweet musky nature throughout, balances perfectly now, and all is calm and right with the world. I learned the lesson a long time ago that some (especially indy and largely natural) fragrances have to go through some exceptionally potent (to the point of unpleasantness) phases to reach the place they really want to be...which is dried down and working with our skin, which is exactly where this perfume is at home....On skin....or under in? whatever?!?!? I will wear it properly to determine my thoughts further but it's a real heavy hitter and projected strongly as well as being super tenacious.
Under My Skin is the extraction of musk from shadow; it’s an immersive and hypnotic portal where you feel yourself slipping slowly under the depths of a lightless pool scented with leather and sandalwood and iris and--this could just be my brain’s association with the name of the perfume and a similarly titled movie-- it’s an olfactory interpretation of the eerie minimalist strings track that lends fear and mystery to the alien temptress's methods for luring and capturing her quarry in Under the Skin.