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Now I did ask the brand owner what the discoloured juice was all about and she said (paraphrasing here) 'ayedunnoe?' Nah, she did give some explanation but it's of little consequence, she did however assure me that it hadn't just destabilised in the shop window. Truth of the matter is I thought it was a shady, kinda juniper/dry gin zing, at top a kind of citrus, woody accord akind to a very lack lustre (and in fairness not trying to be) version of an Aventus or Elysium or Cedrat boisee or a million others. I don't want to be too hard on it because I like the brand concepts and this isn't terrible but didn't fill me with joy either.
It's a rare, rare occasion that I would ever dare to say that a fragrance evoked my beloved Fahrenheit, I said it about a DS&Durga fairly recently and I'm doing it again about this. Super 8 has a wonderful, sweet opening nearly, but not quite mimicking the hawthorn effect of vintage or even present day Fahrenheit. It's much more airy and cool but does have a brace of greens and a violet note, but dries down much less leathery and more sparce, modern. I quite like it but it didn't punch me in the face (in a good way) with originality or vigour. Worth a sniff though.
I'm wearing this today and I have to say it's pretty interesting. The vetiver is green, almost clean & fresh but the dirtiness is being provided by something more in the realms of a patchouli and cedarwood. The ginger is there, but it's not, hot gingerbread nor is it fresh and vibrant, newly cut root, but thankfully it's not the essential oil type ginger which I find lacking in realistic or authentic ginger note. It reminds me of something by Lush, there's definitely bergamot and a natural linalool smell both citrus and lavender, aromatic. On par this is the best of the three I got in a pack together and it lasts a bit better too. It's not a complete muddy mess but it's definitely natural perfumery at a decent level, not elite.
This fragrance absolutely floored me! Nothing like the original Organza, it's a sensual, beauty of a thing, a rare light and airy feel of sweet citrus, amber, woods, and fruit all so delicately spiced with cinnamon. I mean... I love deep, rich amber's spiced with cinnamon don't get me wrong, but to reduce Organza Indecense down to the notes listed here or my fumbling description wouldn't be right. Sometimes a fragrance calls to your heart, it beckons you in and this siren came from the most unexpected of places a Givenchy counter, a strange alt version of a femme classic and a nearly defunct and hard to find line. I adore this fragrance, the amber is quite vanilla centric and after several hours once the top and heart has been striped away, it smells like a kinda pedestrian, sweetie, puff piece. However, by the time that rolls around you've already had hours of exemplary & stunning perfumery to enjoy. I want a bottle.
One curious anomaly, a glitch in the matrix, a wrong to be righted if you will, well it has finally been put straight...I've tried Derby. In my years as a perfume fan I've tried rare vintage Chanel's and Guerlain, Coty etc... from the 1950's and earlier and yet this alluded me. Four main reasons why it frustrated me so much... 1) I love Guerlain (who doesn't?) 2) This is a 'Men's' release 3) It has a prominent carnation note (my favourite floral odour) 4) Even the non vintage release has a fantastic looking flacon. The reasons I couldn't try it are purely due to location and having poorly stocked Guerlain counters in my area. Well I just visited Amsterdam and gorged on this collection wallowing in three classics not least of which was my favourite....Derby. What a fantastic scent. I mean it's simplistic in some sense but you can take more from it if you want to, being that there's actually layers of complexity within Derby too. I get quite a lot of lavender and geranium underpinned with a mild powdery carnation note. There's a touch of oakmoss if you ask me and the leather listed in the notes is more of a gentle floral, flesh, like an orris or iris leather. Light, but lasting, classy men's business, you can't go wrong with this stuff. I think it's fantastic and I will maybe even try to acquire a vintage bottle but if I don't manage to find one this modern version will do just fine. Superb.
This fragrance was massively anticipated by me as a big fan of the original so anticipation and expectations were unduly high, so bare that in mind if I give this a lukewarm appraisal. So it opens and I get masses of ‘Parfum’ like closeness and oriental warmth, not something I get from the original but with the declaration Parfum in mind, this effectively does the same thing. Another aspect it borrows from Declaration is a cumin/caraway note, mildly sweaty even at first with only the vaguest glimpses of the aromats from the edt. I’d say this is very much a modernised, and reinvented Pasha, but does it have merit? Well it’s been on my skin for a few hours now and I’ve got to say, it’s really grown on me. There’s an almost sweetness to the leathery drydown, it’s really soft and subtle and I doubt will catch the attention of your average perfume punter. This will be sort out by those in the know and Cartier have surely created something, while not earth shattering that is very accomplished and has way more class than the vast majority of new men’s releases. I need to wear properly, but I’m of the same opinion as the Declaration Parfum, it’s a welcome addition, and it’s effectively a “what would this fragrance be like if it was in an entirely different genre?“ type of thing. Is it as good as the original? Nah, but if it’s reduced somewhere, I’ll make it mine. I love the soft sandalwood like drydown, though even just on my arm, can’t wait to have a proper wear and update this.
God these bottles are friggin' massive! The scent is pretty massive too. If you like the saccharine sweetness and technical modernity of BR540 then you'll dig this. Baccarat Rouge 540 was a scent that I loved when it was first released (commercially for MFK rather than the crystal one which I was aware of due to Fragrantica some time before that) but vowed that there was no way I could wear it. So a bad scent then? right? No absolutely not! Something about it seemed like a paradigm shift, even before the subsequent hype, something about that formula just made a statement in modern perfumery and the more polarising, the more impactful the statement. I was digging the strange, plasticy saffron which cloud seems to have slightly less of but is no less of a molten sugar, aroma chemical haze and for the price actually a really accomplished fragrance, even if you want to call it an 'official clone'
I don't dislike this fragrance, but to say it has little depth wouldn't be unfair. I guess it's not really my cup of tea, a fruity musk cocktail which primarily smells like some exotic fruit punch. I imagine rose when I smell blackcurrant or cassie which I do in the opening. I don't feel qualified to comment on what makes a good fragrance like this,so take what you will from my review.
Okay so....Set phasers to 'GUSH'!!! No....I hotly anticipated this release but couldn't find it on any Guerlain counters in the UK! I know Harrods had it exclusively for a while but this is Guerlain, and they usually roll it out everywhere after a short period. Still no!!! I noticed that it's now in Selfridges online but not in store....arrrrggghhh!!! My frustration was mounting, am I never going to be able to try this fragrance?? Then a perfume pal of mine from Poland (who is a sweetheart xx but also probably was sick of my moaning) sent me a sample in the post over the weekend and finally I got to sniff it. You might think that degree of anticipation can only lead to disappointment, but I'm pleased to say this stuff joins the family of brilliant releases in this line. Cuir Intense is a symphony of delicate touches and floral leather mastery, further cementing Wasser as one of the greatest perfumers alive today. I'm aware that it's a bit strange and redundant to say that this evokes Chanel's Cuir de Russie partly because Guerlain Vs Chanel is a bit like The Stones Vs the Beatles....I'll just have both thanks! Also because they don't smell anything alike but the high watermark of the Chanel always lingering and this come close to that kind of brilliance. So the facts are I don't have much to say about the breakdown of notes, because this thing is majestically smooth but there's definitely a soft iris/orris to the rounded, leather accord and Cuir Intense resembles musky touches that run through the entire line like Encens Mythique and Bois Mysterieux etc... This has a light, waxy but exotic touch of Jasmine/Ylang but it's by no means a hyper floral leather or fragrance for that matter, nor is it a complete, intense rawhide of a leather. Sadly (for my bank balance) it just adds to the long wnats list, along with the other two I mentioned. It's BRILLIANT!!!!
Another massively interesting opening where I can positively smell the chocolatey benzoin and perhaps tolu from the opening, which is unusual. Then the wet floral accord is like a sweeter hyacinth (lilac) and starts building when settled but with a honied thickness backing it and ensuring that the floral aspect isn't too big. I really like it actually.