Londoner SW1X, from Bex London was released in 2014. The perfumer behind this creation is François Robert. It has the top notes of Basil, Bergamot, Cloves, Lemon, Mandarin Orange, Pink Pepper, and Rose, middle notes of Jasmine, Lily-of-the-Valley, Olibanum (Frankincense), Osmanthus, and Saffron, and base notes of Agarwood (Oud), Amber, Leather, Oakmoss, Patchouli, Sandalwood, Tonka Bean, and Vetiver.
I'll take you through my thought process here...The opening is bright and strongly jammy rose probably those citruses and pink pepper giving it a sweet boost. That's a wonderful smell don't get me wrong but then the next few minutes SW1X settles down and my immediate thought were... 'Oh no...not another uninspiring (but no doubts quality) Oud/Rose composition which is flat and has nothing to lift it. Guilty of the worst crime in my book...being too heavy on the rose element.' ...But how wrong I was. I can be mistaken for thinking that for the first few minutes after the lovely sweetness of roses settles to a strong rose and not much else. Then as if by magic the oud/sandalwood/saffron and a whole host of other beautiful things take over the composition and it becomes quite earthy rather than powdered and sweet. It is instantly reminiscent of Penhaligon's Levantium and As Sawira in that SW1X is a complex mixture of notes which act to accentuate the oud. The difference being this Bex London creation has one final trick up it's sleeve. After a powerful and joyful wear it goes back to being quite soft and then in the deep, deep dry down some of that patchouli and the soft ambery warmth against my skin. Frankly I don't think this will be everyone's cup of tea and with so many Oud/Rose combo's out there you'd be forgiven for overlooking this or not even being prepared to give it a chance. For those who do however you will find a very well put together fragrance, which is a bit dirtier than you might expect. My respect for Francois Robert grows with each scent I try.