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I took quite a long time to understand and appreciate this fragrance. It is complex but also very straight forward, as it doesn't hide any of the notes in itself. For this very reason it took me some time to understand how simple but just pleasant this fragrance really is. Among very predictable winter fragrances, this scent is a breath of fresh air. Its unique blend of tonka, woods, and sweet notes is really not ordinary. This is a fragrance that challenges, surprises, and ultimately delights. The opening notes strike with the force of cardamom. Yet, there lingers a dissonance – perhaps the dried fruits, or the sharpness of the cardamom itself. This is a challenging beginning, one that leaves me uncertain, questioning. But later its gentle embrace comes off. The harshness softens, giving off a delicate interplay of woods and vanilla, their dance guided by the steady heartbeat of tonka. Here, in the heart of the scent, I find a peaceful hug. The woods offer me an earthy warmth, grounding the composition in a sense of rootedness, while the vanilla and tonka show a tapestry of sweetness that is both comforting and alluring. And then, the fragrance reaches its best part – the drydown. Here, the vanilla and benzoin take center stage, their union a symphony of richness and depth. It's truly a moment of pure olfactory bliss, a culmination of all that has come before. While it may lean towards the masculine, there is an undeniable unisex quality that defies categorization, and I find it just perfect for cold months. Delicate yet bold, sweet yet sharp at times. I was truly captivated by the journey it took me on.
Tonkade was not what I expected given the name and the note breakdown. I was expecting something intensely sweet, creamy and vanillic, something overwhelmingly edible. And whilst it has elements of these things, overall I feel it heads towards a slightly sharper, smokier dimension. The tonka is there, front and centre - it’s addictively sweet and creamy, alongside copious amounts of vanilla of course. From here it begins to become a bit spicy, the warmth of cardamom amongst dried fruits darkens the scent profile. Not long after, a sudden smoky sharpness emerges, I imagine from the combination of frankincense, patchouli and cedar. It’s a lovely fragrance, one that I will enjoy wearing my sample of, but I had hoped it would lean into gourmand territory a bit more. For me, it could have done without the smoky woodiness. But either way it’s a gorgeous scent, and if you enjoy your tonka/vanilla not too sweet then this may be the scent for you.