Miss Dior - 1950’s edt splash reviewed. Miss Dior was born shortly after WW2, in a moment of devastation, shortages and despair. While the world was slowly picking itself up, Christian Dior launched the famous New Look Collection in a move of joyous optimism, to allow women to feel beautiful, strong, desired and independent. Miss Dior was the perfect first fragrance, an accessory more easily obtained than the more expensive haute couture. A fragrance full of joy, freshness, joie de vivre. The original incarnation is a beautifully elegant floral chypre, redolent of galbanum, aldehydes, white flowers, oakmoss and hidden animalic notes that lend a gorgeous parfum fourrure feel. The opening absolutely sings. Overcast dove grey skies, but not melancholic. Early spring. Fizzy aldehydes, galbanum, styrallyl acetate for the Gardenia rendition. A young fresh feel for all women, all ages. The scent of optimism. The heart starts to get a little darker. Among the flowers, rose, good luck lily of The Valley, Iris, carnation...voluptuous and spicy, with the discreet powderiness of Iris, to cast a veil of sensual femininity. At once, it smells expensive, debutant but mature; while the flowers and green notes denote elegance and good taste, a perfect first perfume for a young lady, there are hidden secrets ahead, making it perfect for a woman that is fierce willed and strong. Leather, buttery sandalwood, civet, most likely ambergris, costus root, nitromusks...notes that don’t scream but instead envelop the fragrance in a bouquet of luxury and naughtiness; silk underwear under a perfectly tailored suit. The desire to be loved, longed for, without being vulgar. The warmth that emanates from the skin is glorious. Hard to pinpoint notes, it simply sings. A masterpiece. Under the guidance of Christian, Paul Vacher and Jean Carles created one of the most beautiful fragrances of the era, and one of the most memorable masterpieces of the last century. As if the green floralcy of Ma Griffe and the sexual potency of Tabu had a baby, Miss Dior had the pedigree of the house that saw her to life. Elegant, sensual, powerful. The original has a wonderful tenacity on skin, and a potent sillage that becomes more languid as the day progresses. Easily worn by men, Miss Dior is simply put, an ode to joy and love and life. Not to be confused with anything bearing the name today; Miss Dior remained integral up until the late 80’s/early 90’s. Ages well, if you find intact bottles on eBay, they are a good investment. What is currently sold by that name is nothing but a sad joke.
I have a 1950s/60s Houndstooth bottle and I have to say this is one of the best chypre fragrances I’ve ever come across. It opens bright and effervescent with a heavy dose of aldehydes and a touch of bergamot, with powerful galbanum and sage to add green undertones. Soon after this, a heady marriage of countless powdery florals takes charge - namely narcissus, orris and carnation. Once this dries down you’re left with an explosion of natural oakmoss, some of the best I’ve ever smelled. Alongside this, the base is comprised of a leathery labdanum and earthy patchouli, all while the powdery florals, galbanum and aldehydes persist. This is a must have fragrance for any chypre lover, a world away from the overly sweet and synthetic mess that Miss Dior is today. The quality and pure talent that’s present in this classic scent is breathtaking; one of the best iterations of oakmoss I’ve ever come across.