Diorella, from Dior was released in 1972. The perfumer behind this creation is Edmond Roudnitska. It has the top notes of Basil, Bergamot, Green Notes, Lemon, and Melon, middle notes of Carnation, Cyclamen, Honeysuckle, Jasmine, Peach, and Rose, and base notes of Musk, Oakmoss, Patchouli, and Vetiver.
Edmond Roudnitska claimed Diorella as his proudest creation and although absolutely justified, I do not think it is his best creation. That aside, I adore this scent. Roudnitska created a new type of floral chypre with Diorella, one which was inspired by the great Eau Sauvage and to a lesser degree, Eau Fraiche. The airy freshness of jasmine, along with a rindy bergamot and lemon, is a major key in this composition. But he somehow removed the sweetness and headiness of traditional jasmine, amplifying the floral heart through carnation, rose and cyclamen which are given a natural feel through the inclusion of basil - whose aniseed warmth, alongside a traditional Chypre base, stops the scent from feeling cold. Whilst the current formulation is also beautiful, the restriction of certain materials over time, namely oakmoss, means that nothing will compare to the original formulation. This is such an incredibly unique take on a floral Chypre with it’s satisfying herbal freshness, a true masterpiece.