Vetiver Oriental, from Serge Lutens was released in 2004. The perfumer behind this creation is Christopher Sheldrake. The notes are Amber, Dark Chocolate, Guaiac Wood, Iris, Labdanum, Musk, Oakmoss, Sandalwood, Vetiver.
If you like vetiver, this is one of the best in my opinion. On first spray, you get quite a strong vetiver that fizzes on the skin. This slows down and for a while is accompanied by an oily, gently rubbery guaiac wood. I usually struggle with Guaiac wood in fragrances if I'm honest, but it's okay here. I'm not sure I'd be so happy with this if it hung around, but after about 30 minutes, it fades right out to the backseat of the composition, replaced instead by possibly the most beautiful sandalwood I've ever smelt. It's dry, warm and fresh, more like a wood shop than any incense. This is also alongside the emergence of a rich, dark chocolate. The chocolate to me is more abstract than I was expecting. I feel like throughout the wear, it's more of a suggestion of chocolate rather than an obvious, gourmand chocolate. There are some ever so slight, gentle florals, and a hint of a powdery iris note that shows up briefly, but for the most part, they don't crowd the stage and bow out after a couple of hours. At this point, for me, the scent is more or less linear, with no great changes, all chocolate, woods and vetiver, with some balsamic, ambery sweetness to keep it interesting. But that description is far, far too simple. This fragrance has an incredible duality, whilst remaining completely wearable throughout. It is at once dry and sophisticated and sweet and playful at the same time. It flits between the two faces wonderfully and not in a typical "unisex" way, as in the fragrance as a whole takes on the particular gender, it literally swings between masculine and feminine depending on which notes catch you in the air. It's really something special to experience. It's strictly black tie only but can be total rock and roll, constantly subverting itself just when you feel like you have the measure of it. When it feels black tie, it almost makes me feel bad for wearing it in a pair of jeans and when it flips and feels more relaxed, it just kills it, feeling like pure casual class. The blend of these two faces is really something special here and elevates it beyond your average vetiver fragrance. I think the way it wears like this, it is appropriate for any occasion, though it still feels a bit too classy for casual wear for me. This is more for a dressed up affair, whether that be work or play. It would absolutely kill on a date night, but I don't know if I would wear it for a first date as it has quite a unique character, it would really depend on the situation. As far as gender goes, the subtle oakmoss, woods and vetiver nail this hard as masculine, but as I say, it flips equally feminine with soft, rich chocolate and balsamic notes. I think it can be unisex and I also think this would be very sexy on a woman, but you'd want to be pretty confident in your style. As long as you own the fragrance and don't let it dominate I think it would work. Honestly, I think that applies to both male and female here. Performance is INSANE. two sprays are enough, will net you a decent sillage and won't be overpowering, which honestly I think could be easily done. I sprayed this on at 10am before heading to work and went straight out when I finished, I got home at 3 in the morning, crashed out on the bed and woke up the next morning at 8am and I could still smell it like I just sprayed it. Even after I got out of the shower after waking up that morning, I could still smell it. Mental. I could go on, but I won't. Unbelievable scent.
If you like vetiver, this is one of the best in my opinion. On first spray, you get quite a strong vetiver that fizzes on the skin. This slows down and for a while is accompanied by an oily, gently rubbery guaiac wood. I usually struggle with Guaiac wood in fragrances if I'm honest, but it's okay here. I'm not sure I'd be so happy with this if it hung around, but after about 30 minutes, it fades right out to the backseat of the composition, replaced instead by possibly the most beautiful sandalwood I've ever smelt. It's dry, warm and fresh, more like a wood shop than any incense. This is also alongside the emergence of a rich, dark chocolate. The chocolate to me is more abstract than I was expecting. I feel like throughout the wear, it's more of a suggestion of chocolate rather than an obvious, gourmand chocolate. There are some ever so slight, gentle florals, and a hint of a powdery iris note that shows up briefly, but for the most part, they don't crowd the stage and bow out after a couple of hours. At this point, for me, the scent is more or less linear, with no great changes, all chocolate, woods and vetiver, with some balsamic, ambery sweetness to keep it interesting. But that description is far, far too simple. This fragrance has an incredible duality, whilst remaining completely wearable throughout. It is at once dry and sophisticated and sweet and playful at the same time. It flits between the two faces wonderfully and not in a typical "unisex" way, as in the fragrance as a whole takes on the particular gender, it literally swings between masculine and feminine depending on which notes catch you in the air. It's really something special to experience. It's strictly black tie only but can be total rock and roll, constantly subverting itself just when you feel like you have the measure of it. When it feels black tie, it almost makes me feel bad for wearing it in a pair of jeans and when it flips and feels more relaxed, it just kills it, feeling like pure casual class. The blend of these two faces is really something special here and elevates it beyond your average vetiver fragrance. I think the way it wears like this, it is appropriate for any occasion, though it still feels a bit too classy for casual wear for me. This is more for a dressed up affair, whether that be work or play. It would absolutely kill on a date night, but I don't know if I would wear it for a first date as it has quite a unique character, it would really depend on the situation. As far as gender goes, the subtle oakmoss, woods and vetiver nail this hard as masculine, but as I say, it flips equally feminine with soft, rich chocolate and balsamic notes. I think it can be unisex and I also think this would be very sexy on a woman, but you'd want to be pretty confident in your style. As long as you own the fragrance and don't let it dominate I think it would work. Honestly, I think that applies to both male and female here. Performance is INSANE. two sprays are enough, will net you a decent sillage and won't be overpowering, which honestly I think could be easily done. I sprayed this on at 10am before heading to work and went straight out when I finished, I got home at 3 in the morning, crashed out on the bed and woke up the next morning at 8am and I could still smell it like I just sprayed it. Even after I got out of the shower after waking up that morning, I could still smell it. Mental. I could go on, but I won't. Unbelievable scent.