Tobacco Rose, from Papillon Artisan Perfumes was released in 2014. The perfumer behind this creation is Liz Moores. The notes are Ambergris, Beeswax, Oakmoss, Peru Balsam, Rose.
Wow! I was definitely not expecting this. On my skin and with my chemistry, I get a jammy rose a la Rose Jam (Lush), on a test strip it smells like a true rose/oud (there is 0 oud here) and on drydown (on me) it smells like a smoky blood red rose. Talk about a chameleon!! On my skin, the opening takes about two hours to settle down. While it’s there, I can smell one of the richest, reddest, most dark roses. It only allows the geranium to lend a slight element of air, with a slightly green/herbal/lemony piquancy. It reminds me of when Rose Jam was packed with the real stuff, and make no mistake, the rose here smells like a million bucks. The formula ain’t cheap, not by a long shot! Slowly, the sweetness becomes honey like. It’s beeswax, but on me it’s more like honey, raw honey with a humongous animalic side. It must be the ambergris combined, because it smells sweet/carnal/dark/smoky. Drydown takes ages to arrive and sillage is heavy all the way through. When it gets there, the rose subdues slightly, and I’m left with a smoky, salty (thank you true ambergris!) rose, that is kicking the last remnants of honey. I was expecting something else, and once again in true Papillon style, I get something completely different, but 100 times better. There’s an unparalleled richness, a herbal quality, it avoids cliches and becomes one of a kind; This is Rose with a capital R in all its dark crimson glory. Natural ambergris and honey/beeswax anchor it to the skin, just like oakmoss used to do it in the past. Do not expect a light or modern perfume. While not vintage smelling, Tobacco Rose is made in the old fashioned way; art, skill and quality. This is for those who love their roses as deep as they get, with lashings of animal essence and a dark green halo that oversees the development. And even if you don’t like roses, or the idea of them, try it. You can confirm, or change your mind, if you try a true rose in all its glory! Stunning! FBW!
Wow! I was definitely not expecting this. On my skin and with my chemistry, I get a jammy rose a la Rose Jam (Lush), on a test strip it smells like a true rose/oud (there is 0 oud here) and on drydown (on me) it smells like a smoky blood red rose. Talk about a chameleon!! On my skin, the opening takes about two hours to settle down. While it’s there, I can smell one of the richest, reddest, most dark roses. It only allows the geranium to lend a slight element of air, with a slightly green/herbal/lemony piquancy. It reminds me of when Rose Jam was packed with the real stuff, and make no mistake, the rose here smells like a million bucks. The formula ain’t cheap, not by a long shot! Slowly, the sweetness becomes honey like. It’s beeswax, but on me it’s more like honey, raw honey with a humongous animalic side. It must be the ambergris combined, because it smells sweet/carnal/dark/smoky. Drydown takes ages to arrive and sillage is heavy all the way through. When it gets there, the rose subdues slightly, and I’m left with a smoky, salty (thank you true ambergris!) rose, that is kicking the last remnants of honey. I was expecting something else, and once again in true Papillon style, I get something completely different, but 100 times better. There’s an unparalleled richness, a herbal quality, it avoids cliches and becomes one of a kind; This is Rose with a capital R in all its dark crimson glory. Natural ambergris and honey/beeswax anchor it to the skin, just like oakmoss used to do it in the past. Do not expect a light or modern perfume. While not vintage smelling, Tobacco Rose is made in the old fashioned way; art, skill and quality. This is for those who love their roses as deep as they get, with lashings of animal essence and a dark green halo that oversees the development. And even if you don’t like roses, or the idea of them, try it. You can confirm, or change your mind, if you try a true rose in all its glory! Stunning! FBW!