I don't make a habit of trying new Xerjoff's (I know this isn't but it might as well be) because they're an expensive, elite, luxury brand, which I don't connect with and the X fanboys are annoying. However, good perfume is good perfume right? and by the sheer law of averages one or two of their prolific back catalog are bound to resonate with me at some point and Zefiro is one of those, I love it. Smooth, subtle, spicy warmth coming through a kind of milky, satin, woody incense, perfumery haze. It's sweetened musks, perhaps even a touch vanillic but with those warm spices of cardamom/cinnamon/clove which creates a powdery effect and constitutes that carnation note, it's not an accurate carnation but it evokes it enough to me to make it mention worthy. Also I can get that pepper association, definitely from the opening which evokes Carbone by Balmain and the musky, pinky, powder drydown of This is Him by Zadig and Voltaire. It also reminds me a touch (not smell wise but mood) of the only Xerjoff I own.... 1888. I used to think Xerjoff were unattainable price wise as well, I'm no skinflint but they always seemed VERY pricey, but this and many others are available on discount websites for much the same (or slightly less) than some other 'niche' brands. Update: A friend of mine saw heard me talking about this and kindly sent me 10mls of it and having given it a proper wear my feelings haven't changed, although he did say 'Zafiro? oh I think I have that, is it the Elemi one?' to which I replied.... ermmm... no really. However, upon wearing this it's got that curdled fizz of creamy vanilla rounded, resins and the opening of this is a very smooth Elemi/Olibanum combo. I normally don't really like stuff like this, infact the same guy sent me a sample along with the Xerjoff with an example of the exact same thing but done really badly. This gets away with it because of that cinnimal/clove aspect at the heart and with the creaminess creates a perfect balance with everything else and almost evokes a kind of creamy, powdery, carnation effect. There's times I'm not sure during the day but generally speaking I really enjoyed it. The vanilla aspect is certainly in check and not overdone in anyway which usually ruin this type of fragrance for me.
An interesting scent that I find hard to place an occasion for.
On my skin, the herbal, aromatic notes are very forward making it almost savoury. The artesmia mixed with white wine and citrussy notes are by far most prominent. The mix of them is giving me a slight metallic note like pencil shavings. Maybe it's Iso E, maybe it's brain trickery.
I'm not getting much sweetness, but a delicate incense is trying to peek through.
After 3 hours the aromatic notes have softened just a bit, but the wine and artesmia notes are still dominant over any balsamic warmth I expected.