So Hiram Green is a perfumer that I have great affection for simply based on Slowdive, a fragrance I adore with every fibre of my being. Moonbloom is naturally stunning and Hyde, Lustre etc... deliver what is expected from the raw materials used. I'm in two minds about the compositions though, because they do heavily rely on one fantastic raw material. There's nothing wrong with that, showcasing a single material is harder than it seems and knowing just how painstaking perfumery is, it's really not that simple. However, the end result will be if you're just not that into Bulgarian Rose absolute then something like Lustre for example, is so dominant and doesn't have much else there to cling on to. I would never go as far to say it's lazy or one dimensional but it's no symphony of notes found in a classic chypre or something, but then again it's not trying to be and Hiram Green makes a deliberate, stylistic choice to make perfumes this way. Anyway, this one is an orange blossom of the highest clarity and like most scents from this brand impeccably rendered and made with the purist in mind. I'd say this is less on the lactonic, waxy, lightly powdered side you get from orange blossom's by Francis Kurkdjian or Serge Lutens Fleure d'Oranger and instead with a wetter, more fresh bouquet. It's quite green in the opening and does have some of the typical, leafy citrus of petitgrain. As it settles though the floral musk develops more sour and what I perceive as vaguely animal aspects start to chime in, lightly projecting and reminding me of the challenges I faced in enjoying Orange blossom for many years. However, when I sniff close to my skin all the sweet orange is still there and I release a sigh of satisfaction at just how lovely this white floral component can be. I have a neroli material that exhibits greener characteristics and not something I'd really picked up on in 'neroli' perfumes until I tried Pink Neroli from Abel. Not a coincidence then that they are a natural brand too. I don't usually talk about comments or god forbid 'compliments' but this has received several remarks from my family already today. My partner said I smelled like her 'old nan' she also mentioned 4711 which I totally get. Then my Mum said I reminded her of 'old lady' (she is one like but...) and said it reminded her of a Coty perfume she used to wear in the 60's or whatever and Yardley Freesia...and 4711 my mum was FULL of the perfume history knowledge today! Haha...My sister thought it was awful. This is lasting very well as expected, because despite being all natural Hiram Green perfumes last very well and Orange blossom is pretty tenacious stuff. I'm enjoying it as a multifaceted orange blossom of supreme quality and although it's less headache inducing than the Serge Luten's I think I'd rather have that as it's a bit more predictably sweet throughtout. Wouldn't be suprised if Orange blossom aficionados rank this among the very best.
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7 years ago
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So Hiram Green is a perfumer that I have great affection for simply based on Slowdive, a fragrance I adore with every fibre of my being. Moonbloom is naturally stunning and Hyde, Lustre etc... deliver what is expected from the raw materials used. I'm in two minds about the compositions though, because they do heavily rely on one fantastic raw material. There's nothing wrong with that, showcasing a single material is harder than it seems and knowing just how painstaking perfumery is, it's really not that simple. However, the end result will be if you're just not that into Bulgarian Rose absolute then something like Lustre for example, is so dominant and doesn't have much else there to cling on to. I would never go as far to say it's lazy or one dimensional but it's no symphony of notes found in a classic chypre or something, but then again it's not trying to be and Hiram Green makes a deliberate, stylistic choice to make perfumes this way. Anyway, this one is an orange blossom of the highest clarity and like most scents from this brand impeccably rendered and made with the purist in mind. I'd say this is less on the lactonic, waxy, lightly powdered side you get from orange blossom's by Francis Kurkdjian or Serge Lutens Fleure d'Oranger and instead with a wetter, more fresh bouquet. It's quite green in the opening and does have some of the typical, leafy citrus of petitgrain. As it settles though the floral musk develops more sour and what I perceive as vaguely animal aspects start to chime in, lightly projecting and reminding me of the challenges I faced in enjoying Orange blossom for many years. However, when I sniff close to my skin all the sweet orange is still there and I release a sigh of satisfaction at just how lovely this white floral component can be. I have a neroli material that exhibits greener characteristics and not something I'd really picked up on in 'neroli' perfumes until I tried Pink Neroli from Abel. Not a coincidence then that they are a natural brand too. I don't usually talk about comments or god forbid 'compliments' but this has received several remarks from my family already today. My partner said I smelled like her 'old nan' she also mentioned 4711 which I totally get. Then my Mum said I reminded her of 'old lady' (she is one like but...) and said it reminded her of a Coty perfume she used to wear in the 60's or whatever and Yardley Freesia...and 4711 my mum was FULL of the perfume history knowledge today! Haha...My sister thought it was awful. This is lasting very well as expected, because despite being all natural Hiram Green perfumes last very well and Orange blossom is pretty tenacious stuff. I'm enjoying it as a multifaceted orange blossom of supreme quality and although it's less headache inducing than the Serge Luten's I think I'd rather have that as it's a bit more predictably sweet throughtout. Wouldn't be suprised if Orange blossom aficionados rank this among the very best.