Iris Ebène, from Atelier Materi was released in 2019. The perfumer behind this creation is Marie Hugentobler. It has the top notes of Mandarin Orange, Petitgrain, and Pimento, middle notes of Iris, Pink Pepper, and Suede, and base notes of Musk, Peru Balsam, and Sandalwood.
Iris Ebène is a strange take on an Iris accord, and yet still manages to smell pretty boring and lifeless unfortunately. It’s got a strong spicy element from the combination of warm allspice with aromatic pink pepper and a balsamic base. This spicy element is freshened up by the juicy bitterness of blood orange and petitgrain before the Iris itself makes itself known. This Iris is thick and leathery, dense and powdery whilst maintaining a delicate nature about it. All of this rests on a smooth base of sandalwood and leathery musks further elevating that suede accord. Overall it’s a pleasant scent. The quality is pretty good and it’s a nice fragrance to wear, but for the retail price you’re not getting much value for the simple reason that it’s a boring smell. I find it hard to imagine this is going to be a true love for anyone out there.