Sans Fleurs, from Bortnikoff was released in 2020. The perfumer behind this creation is Dmitry Bortnikoff. It has the top notes of Rum and Vanilla, middle notes of Ambergris, Amyris, and Fennel, and base notes of Agarwood (Oud), Indian Oud, and Woody Notes.
Yep, this perfume didn't come to fuck around. It's an assault in the opening, and as others have said it smells like a peaty Islay scotch, but this quickly calms down and makes way for a very dry, dark, serious oud with woody, incensey vibes rather than barnyard funk. Having read the other reviews here I was expecting too much vanilla, but I can't say it's giving me that. On card I smell the vanilla more and it reminds me of Fall Into Stars, but on skin it's totally different. It's very complex, every sniff gives me something different, and the oud is strong and real. Indeed, I find myself thinking 6 sniffs out of 10 that it smells like pure oud oil, but then I get a waft of booze and/or vanilla and some swirling amber (albeit still bone dry). It's a love, but it definitely won't be a perfume for nonchalant daily spritzing. Update: I'm way into the drydown now and it's very addictive. I can understand the negative comments and see why people wouldn't like this, expecially if they're into the frilly, sparkly ouds from this brand, which I also love, but this scratches some sort of specific itch for me, that desire for the darkest, most oudiest oud, well this is it. If you get fed up with being told, "yeah this is oud, but don't worry because it's really accessible and blah blah blah" THIS is the oud for you. This is an oud which will burn the hairs out of your nostrils and smoulder away in your thoughts after you have worn it, but without being brash, offensive or synthetic. It's a class act, but one with a bold presence. It's not leathery but I can imagine it will appeal to those who love really strong, noble, leathery scents.