Cabochard, from Grès was released in 1959. The perfumer behind this creation is Bernard Chant. It has the top notes of Aldehydes, Asafoetida, Fruity Notes, Lemon, Sage, Spicy Notes, and Tarragon, middle notes of Geranium, Jasmine, Orris Root, Rose, and Ylang-Ylang, and base notes of Amber, Coconut, Leather, Musk, Oakmoss, Patchouli, Sandalwood, Tobacco, and Vetiver.
I have long-since adored the current formulation of Cabochard, but have always remained curious of a more vintage composition. And so I set out to find an old EDT bottle, and my god is it breathtaking. There are few classics which embody the idea of leather as Cabochard does, it is simply a master stroke of Bernard Chant’s genius. The scent is based upon a central leathery core of isobutyl quinoline as all great leather scents are, but it’s balanced beautifully by its violet-like ionones interplaying with rose and jasmine. It’s very dry in the base; patchouli, tobacco, Vetiver and spices mingle with the leather creating a bold and headstrong aroma, as the name Cabochard suggests. This truly is one of the great classics of French perfumery, a lesson to anyone bold enough to tackle the leather-chypre subfamily. Whilst the vintage is stunning, and well worth experiencing, I would still opt for the current formulation to wear day to day because of the much improved longevity.