Cologne Officinale, from James Heeley was released in 2023. The perfumer behind this creation is unknown. It has the top notes of Basil and Galbanum, middle notes of Lavender, Rosemary, and Sage, and base notes of Amber and Oakmoss.
Okay so I need to temper my review here because I could have the potential to wax lyrical about this one and I'm aware that this fragrance may not be everyone's cup of tea nor is it by any means breaking any new ground but I think that is precisely why I adore it. When folks (usually me) say stuff like...'they don't make um like this anymore.' It's usually about some bleary old vintage Men's bollocks. There have been attempts by indy perfumers and brands who are fans of a certain era and style of perfume to evoke classic masculine tropes with varying degrees of success. I get the intent and I'm here for it but the execution is more often than not, left wanting. Not in the case of Cologne Officinale. I'm assuming the name is referential to a sort of Italian style of perfumery because it has the fresh 'Amalfi' vibes coupled with the requisite 'soapiness' often described in Italian perfumery. What's not very 'Cologne' about it is the lack of white florals, or waxiness and it's not a fleeting perfume by any means. Citrus accord is bittersweet and long lasting, instantly fresh and arresting but has a depth and quality to it. The next phase is a growing mossy note/accord and some degree of 'push' and floracy from like a hedione effect, a la Eau Sauvage. The comparisons should end there though because this does have a distinctly different vibe thanks in part to some of that green galbanum, although it's not as present or green as something like that Les Abstraits one I love or other masculine focused recent efforts but is on a par quality wise. This really feels like it could be an 80's Men's vintage 'Sport' flanker thing but with all the top notes intact and a modernised feel. This is precisely why I will give it some creativity points because it feels somewhat modernised and not just a copy or hommage to fusty old bizz, which it so easily could be mistaken for. Make no mistake though, even with this there's no surprises in Cologne Officianale other than it's being released in 2023 by a brand which for me have never really done much I'm interested in. Top marks to Heeley for recognising the need for something like this in this era of dreck and rehash, yes I'm saying that about a WOODY, MOSSY, CITRUS, COLOGNE FOR MEN....but good is good, and this is VERY GOOD. Also reasonably priced for a niche perfume and something I would wear the shit out of in the same way I do an Eau Sauvage or a Cerrutti 1881 so a 100ml bottle is something I can see in my future for sure.
Okay so I need to temper my review here because I could have the potential to wax lyrical about this one and I'm aware that this fragrance may not be everyone's cup of tea nor is it by any means breaking any new ground but I think that is precisely why I adore it. When folks (usually me) say stuff like...'they don't make um like this anymore.' It's usually about some bleary old vintage Men's bollocks. There have been attempts by indy perfumers and brands who are fans of a certain era and style of perfume to evoke classic masculine tropes with varying degrees of success. I get the intent and I'm here for it but the execution is more often than not, left wanting. Not in the case of Cologne Officinale. I'm assuming the name is referential to a sort of Italian style of perfumery because it has the fresh 'Amalfi' vibes coupled with the requisite 'soapiness' often described in Italian perfumery. What's not very 'Cologne' about it is the lack of white florals, or waxiness and it's not a fleeting perfume by any means. Citrus accord is bittersweet and long lasting, instantly fresh and arresting but has a depth and quality to it. The next phase is a growing mossy note/accord and some degree of 'push' and floracy from like a hedione effect, a la Eau Sauvage. The comparisons should end there though because this does have a distinctly different vibe thanks in part to some of that green galbanum, although it's not as present or green as something like that Les Abstraits one I love or other masculine focused recent efforts but is on a par quality wise. This really feels like it could be an 80's Men's vintage 'Sport' flanker thing but with all the top notes intact and a modernised feel. This is precisely why I will give it some creativity points because it feels somewhat modernised and not just a copy or hommage to fusty old bizz, which it so easily could be mistaken for. Make no mistake though, even with this there's no surprises in Cologne Officianale other than it's being released in 2023 by a brand which for me have never really done much I'm interested in. Top marks to Heeley for recognising the need for something like this in this era of dreck and rehash, yes I'm saying that about a WOODY, MOSSY, CITRUS, COLOGNE FOR MEN....but good is good, and this is VERY GOOD. Also reasonably priced for a niche perfume and something I would wear the shit out of in the same way I do an Eau Sauvage or a Cerrutti 1881 so a 100ml bottle is something I can see in my future for sure.