Joy is generally regarded as one of the greatest perfumes ever made, and I found myself agreeing as soon as this precious liquid touched my skin. This was a scent which, at the time, was the most expensive perfume in the world - double the price of gold bullion - which was released shortly after Wall Street crashed. Instead of shelving the project, Patou went ahead with the release and it became a worldwide sensation. I managed to find an amazingly well-kept vintage parfum online, and I truly believe this is one of, if not the, greatest floral fragrance ever created. Every 30ml bottle contains 10,000 jasmine blossoms and 336 roses with a whisper of civet - a scent profile which is undeniably joyous. It thrives in the simplicity of its composition, as there is nowhere to hide or cut corners. The success of this scent relies almost entirely on the astounding quality of the finest materials in the world. It doesn’t smell like the jasmine fragrances you find in todays market, overly clean, soapy and synthetic. Instead, it’s intensely thick and indolic, sultry and slightly lustrous with that delicate hint of civet. It’s undeniably Jasmine and rose, done to perfection. It makes you realise just how much passion and dedication went into perfume at this time. A true masterpiece.
Vintage 1973 Joy extrait, black snuff bottle (cute as hell btw) My jasmine benchmark! Elegance is simplicity. Joy is elegance in a bottle. For all complexity of the formula, which arrived sealed and perfectly preserved, this is a stunning jasmine simply warmed by the real civet and musks inside. It’s not dirty, it’s not extravagant in a more contemporary way (think 70’s/80’s stunners); it’s simply beautiful. Jasmine and I have a love/hate relationship. I adore the flower itself, the smell in the air, sucking the stem and savoring the nectar. I grew among jasmine trees and at night, especially summer, the scent was intoxicating. For me, not one perfume has captured that smell. Some have come close and some are real beauties. Joy here is a trip to my childhood and I finally smell the real thing. Jasmine flower bottled and preserved in a little bottle that serves as perfume history. Beauty from a time, not so long ago, when quality was the measure up and houses like Patou produced ART, even if the financial gains where next to nothing. Who would today, in their sanity, bottle a perfume so expensive to make, that there is zero profit from sales? Aside from this little story, what predominates on my skin other than the jasmine, is a shy rose. Shy because my skin doesn’t bring it forward. The star is jasmine, while all the other notes simply enhance it. It feels and smells rich, rounded, warm, well put together. Nothing screams, nothing smells out of place. The sandalwood is creamy, real sandalwood, the oakmoss albeit not strong, is wonderful. And the civet, my beloved civet, has manners, simply providing the necessary warmth that Joy needs to shine. And the musk, beautiful sexy musk! I didn’t think it’d be this good, and I’m happy to report it holds up to its status. Times like these I wish I could time travel and buy perfume from when everyone thought it would be this good forever. Trust me, if you come along bottles that have the baudruchage seal intact, invest. Perfumes so well made that stand the test of time decades later, willing to unfold under a perfume lovers nose! Obviously, the Joy made today it’s not the same. IFRA happened, laws about allergens came into play, many ingredients became banned or simply disappeared, naturals are very expensive, and tastes changed. But the edp I own from 2013, from Designer Parfums, is very near, very true to what Joy is all about, and given the circumstances exceedingly well made. Yes, it’s a bit more shrill, more commercially friendly, but it still smells like it, and I’m happy to see that, at least now, Patou is in good hands and that it’s perfumes haven’t followed the footsteps of other once glorious brands. My little snuff bottle will serve as my drug, when only the costliest perfume in the world will do!
Slightly indolic jasmine bomb. It’s glamorous and naughty at the same time!